Boilermate ii gledhill boiler buzzing

Quinten · 19 Oct 2008

Some pictures I took of the offending components. You never know, it may actually help someone else

ChrisR · 20 Oct 2008

Unfortunately we can't see the values of the components. They're trying to smooth a rough rectified voltage which goes a lot higher than the voltage of the relay. So you need plenty of "headroom" on the voltage of the capacitor. 63 Volt would be ok, though they would be a lot bigger and more expensive than lower voltage ones.
Only one of the caps is going to be responsible - C3 it appears. WHen the designer made space for a big one, he knew what he was doing. Then it got "value engineered"!

Quinten · 20 Oct 2008

The big axial capacitor is rated 63V 22uF, and the small radial capacitor is rated 16V 22uF. Maplin part numbers AT04 (43p) and VH09 (12p) respectively.

digitaria · 25 Oct 2008

JonHarris said:
The problem and solution is really quite simple, and incredibly cheap if you can wield a soldering iron. The issue is not the relay itself, but the rather crude power supply. There is a 22uF electrolytic capacitor which smooths out the 50Hz from the mains, which due to the high temperature it is constantly exposed to, has dried out, and consequently is no longer doing a very good job. The buzzing noise is the relay being switched on and off 50 times a second - which isn't very good for the pump. Maplin supply suitable electrolytics that are rated for high temperatures - so should last a few years longer. I suspect that replacement boards will develop the same symptoms over time. I've replaced all the electrolytics in both boards for around 50p[/img]

Maybe not much use to the OP, but very useful to me - thank you Jon Harris. My delay timer is buzzing like a chainsaw - I'm off to Maplin to get me some capacitors.

DiscoKid · 9 Jan 2009

Thread resurrection time again. Sorry, but one of you intelligent guys may be able to answer this for me.

I have a problems Pump Drive PCB. Inspection has revealed component scorching around the Zener diodes. I'll obviously do some voltage and resistance testing first as I know Zeners produce alot of heat and cause PCB discolouration but does anyone know the component values?

I'll get the capacitors whilst I'm there too if the Zeners need replacing. Thanks for the info guys

.

Many thanks,
Dave

DiscoKid · 10 Jan 2009

Morning,

It seems I back to the Delay Timer PCB and wondered if any of you know the value for R1?

This is from my other thread:

I went to the Pump Drive PCB first and found discolouration from heat scorching on the PCB. I started to undertake some resistance checks and damn near burnt myself on Delay Timer PCB. It turns out that the heat scorching originated from R1 on the Delay Timer PCB. I haven't had time to desolder for proper testing but resorted to a quick voltage check in situ. The right hand leg was at 125v and the left hand was at zero. This can't be right 125v dropped over one resistor, can it?. Does anyone know the R1s component data and value so as I can replace it rather than the whole board?

I realise some posters from this thread may not regularly trawl the forum and was hoping to reach them too for this one favour to identify R1, please.....

Many thanks,
Dave

tdroza · 20 Jan 2009

Thanks to the helpful and detailed info in this thread I've been able to fix the continuous buzzing that started 2 days ago from the bottom relay (by replacing the axial capacitor C3 on the delay timer PCB).

The hot water and heating now work fine, except that when the boiler stops firing and the green neon on the Boilermate goes out the boiler pump keeps running. It used to go off within 10mins of the boiler but now runs continually.

I had intended to replace the other smaller radial cap at the same time but Maplin gave me the wrong one and I didn't check until I got home! Is it worth replacing this one as well or is the problem likely to be elsewhere?

Any pointers appreciated, before I admit defeat and replace the whole PCB.

Cheers,
Tom

tdroza · 21 Jan 2009

Just in case anyone else had the same problem of the boiler pump running continually...

I think I found the problem and it was nothing as complicated as a faulty component: I'd left the store temp on the tank too high after putting everything back together when I replaced the dead capacitor. After leaving it turned off overnight I turned the temp down and everything seems fine now.

Thanks again to the useful info in this thread!

westierob · 21 Mar 2009

Thanks to all those above who posted their experience of buzzing with the Boilermate 2. Mine started an annoying buzzing this morning which just would not stop until I turned it off - also the green neon flashed at the same rate.

After using google I came on this really good post which points at C3 on the timer board as the most likely suspect, so I checked our boilermate PCB's and confirmed it was the relay on the delay timer board that was buzzing, then went straight to Maplins and bought a new cap for 16p

The capacitor I purchased was a high temperature 100V cap 22uF - it is radial rather than axial but works great. The Maplin code is DT58N

Thanks again
Robert

bluebellstu · 23 Mar 2009

Thanks to all of you guys for keeping this thread updated. I've now got sick of mine buzzing - which now seems to go on for 20Min +

I'm off to Maplins shortly.

chupachups · 23 Apr 2009

anyone got the maplin codes for the pump drive pcb components ?

tia

floody · 18 Oct 2009

Hi, i have read throught the thread about the buzing, mine is doing it too but its defo the top one, the pump drive one, now i dont think its to important this time of year because the pump will be running whilst heating on, reading through the manual, it says that the top PCB basically runs heating pump for a few secs every 40 hours, i'd still like to fix it for piece of mind, now ive seen the caps that people replace on the bottom board but nots ure what bits to replace on the top pump board!! if someone can tell me then i can head to maplin and solder them in!!

cheers

Kreisash · 21 Nov 2009

Same here!
I read the posts, went to Maplins, replaced the caps on the delay PCB but now it seems like it's the pump PCB that's buzzing! (Stupidly I didn't check which was buzzing in the first place.)

One of the capacitors looks a bit funny, however, it looks like the value of it has actually come off and is unreadable!

So if anyone can post a picture of the pump PCB and the values of each of the components it would be most appreciated!

nbroster · 12 Dec 2009

Thanks to all who contributed answers here. I had the same relay chatter (buzzing)with my Boilermate II. Replaced the smoothing cap (22mF 63V) on first the pump delay PCB, that changed the buzzing to more frequent and regular. Then changed the 22mF 63V electrolytic on the pump drive PCB, finally "Peace at Last" (as PAL TV was once known...)

mcmarshon · 13 Dec 2009

nbroster said:
Thanks to all who contributed answers here. I had the same relay chatter (buzzing)with my Boilermate II. Replaced the smoothing cap (22mF 63V) on first the pump delay PCB, that changed the buzzing to more frequent and regular. Then changed the 22mF 63V electrolytic on the pump drive PCB, finally "Peace at Last" (as PAL TV was once known...)

Bit ot, but are you Nigel that used to work at Farnell by any chance ?

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Boilermate ii gledhill boiler buzzing

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