Hot flue and loft insulation

C

Coniferman

I was getting a knock sound (not very loud but slightly undesirable at night) a couple of minutes after the (warm air) boiler switched off. Found it was from where the flue enters the loft - one side of the flue was knocking against the hole in the ceiling.

Wedging (with a piece of wood) the flue from the opposite side so that the flue was in contact the ceiling, successfully stopped the knocking. However, I am wondering if this is a good idea, or if there should always be a gap. Is there something better I should use to fill the gap?

Also the majority of the flue is insulated and wire caged but a couple of inches off the ceiling is not insulated. Is it safe for normal loft insulation to come in contact with the flue at this point?

80's build.
 
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The flue should not be in contact with any combustable material i.e wood.

It should be sleeved where it passes through the ceiling. Why cant you just cut away the the bit of ceiling it was expanding against?
 
Can I not just stuff some 'loft' insulation into the gap then?

The hole through the ceiling was not specifically sleeved. Would the entire flue not be sleeved to some extent or is that different?
 
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Rockwool and Rocklap make special flexible flue liners that just wrap around the liner. These have the appropriate level of fire resistance.
The sleeves are lengths of pre-formed insulation with a one piece, factory applied foil facing and an integral self-adhesive lap. Each sections is 1 metre long with a (typically) 25mm wall thickness.
 

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