Parquet flooring novice help please !!!!

Paul_B

Well we have finally decided on the flooring for the hall, parquet. I have never attempted to lay parquet before and have been reading lots about it ( have I bitten off more than I can chew !!!) well here is the situation:-

I have taken up the carpet and removed the old vinyl tiles. They had been attached to the concrete floor with bitumen. The floor seems level, what to do next?

Do I need to seal the floor (tiles laid when the house was built I think 1960's).

I am planning on going for a herringbone design and have found some very good advise on laying it from Woodyoulike

http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=27530&view=next

I am thinking of going for a border but the stairs are on an angle, once I have cut around the stairs will I then have to put my own T&G's back into the wood as they would be lost?

I am looking at going for the Lecol 5500 to attach them, can this be bought from any building merchants or is it, a specialist product ? If it is does anyone know of anywhere near Grimsby that can supply it as delivery on the web is very expensive.

The flooring is reclaimed mahogany, for info.

I am sure I will be back on here when it comes to finishing off waxing etc.

Sorry it is such a long 1st post but I need all the help I can get.

Thanks in advance

Paul

WoodYouLike · Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 11:27 am Post Subject:

Reading your post I presume your blocks have T&G. Because you fix the blocks straight to the concrete these T&G's are there just for extra - I wouldn't say ease - help to keep things together. No need to 'make' your own once you've tackled the stair bit.

As for bitumen and Lecol (which all specialised wooden flooring shops can have/should have) the bonding time of the modern adhesive will take a little bit longer when bitumen residue is involved. so take your time, don't rush anything and good luck.

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Paul_B · Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 11:35 am Post Subject:

Thanks WoodYouLike, I will take some pics of the stairs to explain what I mean about the T&Gs which need to be cut. Because the stairs have an angle when I cut the angle it will loose the original T&Gs in the cutting !!! Cane the Lecol be sourced from DIY chains or local building merchants would you know?

Thanks

Paul

WoodYouLike · Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 11:38 am Post Subject:

Paul_B wrote:

Thanks WoodYouLike, I will take some pics of the stairs to explain what I mean about the T&Gs which need to be cut. Because the stairs have an angle when I cut the angle it will loose the original T&Gs in the cutting !!! Cane the Lecol be sourced from DIY chains or local building merchants would you know?

Thanks

Paul

Pics would be handy

DIY chains, not sure, building merchants should have.

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Paul_B · Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 11:50 am Post Subject:

Got the pic done but cannot get it onto reply could I email it to you or advise on how to get picture on here.

Thanks[/img]

WoodYouLike · Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 11:51 am Post Subject:

Sure, no probs, email away and will post it for you

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Paul_B · Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 12:14 pm Post Subject:

WoodYouLike wrote:

Sure, no probs, email away and will post it for you

Pic sent

Paul

WoodYouLike · Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 12:21 pm Post Subject:

IMHO you worry too much about the T&G around the stairs. Cut the blocks so they fit in the pattern and the adhesive will keep them in place and down. (Or I still don't understand you question, could be my English

)

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Paul_B · Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 12:43 pm Post Subject:

WoodYouLike wrote:

IMHO you worry too much about the T&G around the stairs. Cut the blocks so they fit in the pattern and the adhesive will keep them in place and down. (Or I still don't understand you question, could be my English

)

On the angle of the stairs it will not be a full block, so I will have to cut to size. This will result in either a tongue or grooved end having to be cut off. If it is the groove end do I then need to put a new groove into it to fit into the interlocking straight bit on the rest of the border (ooopppsss sorry forgot to mention the border)

Thanks for all your assistance

Paul

WoodYouLike · Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 12:45 pm Post Subject:

IMHO there is not need to cut a new groove, the T&G on the other side will help to keep the block in place, as will the glue which bonds the block to the underfloor.

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Paul_B · Posted: Sun Jan 07, 2007 12:48 pm Post Subject:

WoodYouLike wrote:

IMHO there is not need to cut a new groove, the T&G on the other side will help to keep the block in place, as will the glue which bonds the block to the underfloor.

Thanks for all your help I am going to look at it and hopefully buy it tomorrow, I will let you know how I get on with it. What do you think about sealing the floor 1st do I need to bother or will it be ok? as discribed it is concrete with bitumen on it, seems quite level.

Thanks again

Paul

Paul_B · Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 11:00 pm Post Subject:

Got the wood some with bitumen on which seems to come off easy enough with a paint gun and a scraper. Will I have to seal the floor before I lay it as explained it is concrete with a very thin layer of bitumen on it. I spoke to a flooring company today who said that I MUST remove all the all bitumen first or it will not stick, a screed could also be used. Is this really required ?

Thanks

Paul

WoodYouLike · Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:24 am Post Subject:

He (or she) is half right: bitumen residue has an effect on the bonding time of the parquet adhesive (longer bonding time), but what we always fear is how well the screed will bond with the bitumen?
Scrape off as much bitumen as you can from blocks and floor, make sure no loose bits remain and do allow for a longer bonding time (i.e. add 50 - 100% of the time it says on the tin before sanding and finishing it).

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Paul_B · Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 12:14 pm Post Subject:

WoodYouLike wrote:

He (or she) is half right: bitumen residue has an effect on the bonding time of the parquet adhesive (longer bonding time), but what we always fear is how well the screed will bond with the bitumen?
Scrape off as much bitumen as you can from blocks and floor, make sure no loose bits remain and do allow for a longer bonding time (i.e. add 50 - 100% of the time it says on the tin before sanding and finishing it).

Many thanks again !!! the company I spoke to said not to use lecol 5500 as it dries brittle. Should I go for a flexible adhesive ? and if so any suggestions ?

Thanks

Paul

WoodYouLike · Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 12:23 pm Post Subject:

Paul_B wrote:

Many thanks again !!! the company I spoke to said not to use lecol 5500 as it dries brittle. Should I go for a flexible adhesive ? and if so any suggestions ?

Brittle??? We use Lecol5500 and never heard of or saw this effect.

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