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Help Need with Isolation Valve Fitting & Earthing

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AndrewL

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 10:49 am    Post Subject:
Help Need with Isolation Valve Fitting & Earthing
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1/ I'm relacing a bathroom sink and wanted to know do I need to also replace the Isolation Valve's with new ones or can I use the old ones already on the pipes.

2/ Also if I'm fitting a "Push Fit Flexi pipe" instead of the copper pipes am I able to earth on the flexi pipe or must I do this on another part of the pipe.

You help and advice would is greatly appericated.

Cheers,

Andy
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baxpoti

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 11:42 am    Post Subject:
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1. fine to re-use if they don't leak
2. post this in electrics UK
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AndrewL

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 11:50 am    Post Subject:
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Many thanks for the advice. Do I need add anything other than PTF tape when doing it up or should I add some sort of glue/ sealant etc?

Can't find the answer to 2nd question in Electrics
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bster

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 8:44 pm    Post Subject:
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icon_eek.gif plastic will not conduct! so there is no point whatsoever in earthing the plastics, earth to the copper pipe!

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Lee-King

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2007 8:48 pm    Post Subject:
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Earth the copper pipes.

Flexi's normally have a rubber washer in them, you shouldn't need to use PTFE.
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AndrewL

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2007 11:40 am    Post Subject:
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Thanks guys for all the help and useful tips.
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EVER-PURE

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 9:14 am    Post Subject:
Help Need with Isolation Valve Fitting & Earthing
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You can plastic push fit, some have service valves fitted, which fit straight on to the taps, you will need to continue the earthing by joining the hot and cold via earthing cable and earthing clamps. If you are using pushfit flexi's you won't need anything else, but if are using normal compression fittings you will only need olives.
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Paul Barker

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 9:29 am    Post Subject:
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If the pipes originate from outside the bathroom in copper they all need bonding together with 4mm csa earth wire which should also bond the protective conductors of any equipment in the zones (i.e. shower, luminaire [electician speak for light]).

any metal pipework that does not enter from outside the zones does not have to be bonded whatsoever, otherwise we would be bonding soap dishes and ash trays.

Of course the most important part is to include a do not remove warning label, to protect future users against diy disaster plumbers.

As for the flexi pipe, if it is metal braid, even though there is a rubber washer inside it continuity should be provided by the compression fit. However let us consider the danger should it not. No danger. Only would matter if the metal braid were to be relied on to continue the bond to a metal basin, which would have to be very reare.

In a bathroom you are not at risk from stand alone metal parts, you are only at risk from parts which can introduce a potential from outside the bathroom, and from metal parts of electrical fittings (like the case of a water heater) . One of the few good reasons for bonding a boiler and it's pipework.

(I just hope that in the 17th edition they address the current malpractice of excessive boiler bonding emoticon.) icon_rolleyes.gif
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