How to achieve a Shiny Gloss finish on MDF/Plywood

We have purchased a new kitchen with Gloss Black doors. The end panels available to finish the cabinets were extremely expensive, so instead we are going to use either 18mm MDF or Plywood to make end fascia panels and cover them in matching tiles. This will leave the exposed edge of the MDF/Plywood.

How can I achieve a Shiny Black Gloss finish to this exposed edge?

Primer, undercoat, Gloss Black paint with roller or maybe spray can?

Thanks in advance for suggestions.

The easiest way to get a smooth surface on the edge of the board will be to use a white iron on edging, the type used with "conti board" this can then be sprayed with a can of gloss black car paint and a few coats a spray on clear gloss acrylic lacqer to give it some depth.

It is possible to get the same finish on the edge of MDF but it takes a lot of work getting the surface smooth enough.

You will still have to find a way to cover the edge of the tiles though!

Jason

It might sound a bit bizarre, but car filler on the end of your MDF, then rubbed down with wet and dry paper will give a very smooth edge. An old painter and decorator who did my wooden windows a few years back swears by the stuff to fill timber window frames after cutting out any rot. He did one of my windows using the technique 3 years ago and the finish is still superb!

I've heard that too pilotpete - never tried it though. Maybe the poster can reply if he tries it. It'd be good to get some feedback for a change. Maybe that crazy kid zampa has tried it.

Well, if you think about it it adheres to very well to smooth metal, so wood should be no problem. It is MUCH easier to fill, rub down and achieve a super smooth finish with than wood filler, which tends to harden like concrete. I would give it a go on an offcut of MDF and see what it is like; it would be better than the cut end and I suspect it won't soak up the paint up as badly.

I am in the middle of fitting an new ensuite, the main bathroom being the next project. However, the missus dropped a cup into the ceramic washbasin the other day which caused 3 cracks and a 2" triangle of basin surface to fall out. A temporary repair was called for to keep the basin serviceable until rip out! I filled it with cementitious tile adhesive to bulk out between the two layers of the basin and then filled the surface with car filler. It rubbed down smooth with ease and two coats of acrylic primer has made it waterproof! What's more is the basin is horrible early 90's grey.......which, wait for it, matches the colour of dried car filler! Perhaps I will leave the old bathroom suite in after all.....but then again....!

I use car body filler for decorating, you cant beat the finish obtainable it doesnt shrink and crack etc and you can get very smooth. for those in a rush you can sand it after 10 mins (but then it does clog the paper) and paint it after 20 (although on a car you would leave it longer), for woodwork to be painted its great.

thats the best way to seel the end grain on ply or mdf but only put a thin coat on as the guys said it can be a pain to rub down and when you do use a block with the sandpaper it will keep it squarer.

If the panels aren't too big, another way to get the edge flat and square after filling is to place the wet and dry paper on a flat surface and then to draw the end of the panel over it whilst holding it upright and applying pressure. Much easier to get a uniform pressure over the full length as opposed to using a small block with the paper on it. If the paper slips, tape it down on either side.

Thanks for the tips.

The end panels will probably be double thickness (approx 36mm), I may be able to cheat a little by gluing a piece of MDF or Ply on the end of the piece which will give me a good square end as well as an easier bit to paint.

Don't need to do it for a month or so yet so I'll let you know how I get one.