Kitchen wiring

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I am having the kitchen refitted and extended so im putting a new ring-main in there what i want to know is if i want low level sockets for appliances with fcu's above work surface is fcu fitted as part of the ring or is it spurred off the ring or if both are acceptable which would you recommend?

On a side note the cooker connection that was left by the previous occupants is a 45 amp cooker unit switch with integrated socket fed with 10mm cable on a 12m run back to the consumer unit into a45 amp mcb protected by an rcd. We havent decided on a cooker yet but it will be an integrated electric double oven/grille (hob is gas) is this set-up ok as reading some similar threads on here i dont see anyone using 10mm t+e for cookers

cheers.
 
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It is preferable to have the FCU ont he ring. But do consider that having an FCU and a 3-pin socket below introduces 2 fuses of the same rating. Either could blow. It is more common now to have a 20 amp switch above he worktop instead of an FCU.

The cooker circuit you have will be mroe than adequate.

Also be aware, under part p of the building regs, it is illegal to do this work without notifying your local area buildings control first.
 
thanks for the advice, i decided to go for the 20 amp switches, another thing tho, are there any regs regarding the proximity of sockets/switches to the kitchen sink and if so how are you supposed to work around having washing machines/dishwashers near to the sink ?

thanks.
 
sockets to be spaced at least 300mm from the edge of the sink unit including its drainer. this is a recommendation not a rule. I prefer more if you can manage it.
 
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BS 7671 does not specify any minimum distance for socket-outlets to be from a sink.

Regulation 512-06-01 requires due account to be taken of all external influences. The Regulation requires all equipment to be of a design appropriate to the situation in which it is to be used or its mode of installation is to take account of the conditions likely to be encountered.


Accessories used in domestic installations are not designed to be splashed and therefore not suitable for installation close to a sink or draining board. The NICEIC recommends that socket-outlets and other accessories should be located at least 300 mm, measured horizontally, from a sink or draining board, where they are unlikely to be splashed.


Where circumstances require a BS 1363 socket-outlet or other accessory to be installed in a wet
location, a splash-proof accessory or an accessory having protection to IPX4 should be
considered. However, in a domestic kitchen, the industrial appearance of a splash-proof
socket-outlet is likely to be unacceptable and a standard socket-outlet located a safe distance
away is usually the preferred solution.

although the above says 300mm away from the sink, i personally put the nearest socket out of arms reach of the bowl if possible.
washing machines/dishwashers near to or next to the sink are usually fed from a low level socket ie under the worktop and behind/to the side of the appliance.


oops. John D beat me to it..
 
i have a 45 amp cooker switch wired with 10mm t&e from a 45 amp mcb in the fuse box....now from the switch to the cooker control what guage wire is acceptable (considering the built in double oven i am getting is 5kw if i remember correctly), is it ok to use 10mm again (seeing how it is wired from the consumer unit in 10mm and then from the cooker control unit to the back of the oven what guage wire is required? or can everything be done in 10mm? also is there a maximum cable length run from cooker switch to cooker control unit? and from cooker control unit to oven ?
thanks in advance.
 
If the hob is gas, and the oven is only 21 amps (5kw), you only need 32A protection (allowing a bit for the socket). 10mm is overkill, but it will be ok. 4mm would be fine.
 

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