Liquid DPM on concrete floor

rifraf74 · 22 Feb 2007

Apologies for hijacking your thread but I'm also looking for an answer to this question.

The house was built in 1951 and had the fireplace removed before we bought the house. When we took up the carpets the sand/cement mix that was used to fill the space that the fireplace left behind came up. I've been advised to use some liquid DPC to prepare the space before I get the floor levelled. I will also be putting down a damp proof membrane under the underlay so I don't get the problem again.

Anyone recommend a product ? Someone said blackjack but I think they were pulling my leg as I can't find a product with that name for this treatment.

Thanks in advance.
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Lynda, moderator

Please note forum rule 20.

NEVER hi-jack posts. I was able to split yours

mattysupra · 22 Feb 2007

is the rest of the floor floorboards and just where the old fire was concrete? And if you read( how to install a surface dpm ) you may get a better idea of what to do. As for where to get the products from im not allowed to put it on the forum, we can try this way tho- What comes after E? and foot---- ! Put the two answers together with a space between the first letter and the second four letter word and you should of cracked it. Put the answer into google and it should be the first thing that comes up,

rifraf74 · 22 Feb 2007

The whole floor is concrete and has a section about an inch deep where the fireplace used to be. Whoever did the repair once the fireplace was taken out didn't bother putting any DPC down and just filled it with a concrete/sand mix which had just crumbled over time. Once we opened the fireplace up the damp smell became even stronger and we began to understand where the moisture was coming from which was rising up the wall as the DPC was being breached. I've since removed anything between the floor and wall so the DPC in the brickwork is visible in an attempt to stop the breaching and the moisture rising up the wall.

mattysupra · 22 Feb 2007

replace the concrete and install a dpm sheet under it. You should be o.k with carpet as it can breath. But if you do try putting a surface dpm down the gripper will have to be glued as the nails floorlayers use to install gripper will damage dpm bringing you back to square one. And dont try to roll a sheet of plastic across the whole floor and underlay on top of it. This will make the problem worse.

rifraf74 · 22 Feb 2007

Matty

The guy who is levelling the floor so we get a perfect finish for the wood flooring said he was going to use Ardex SDT. Is this the kind of thing he should be using as it does seem very expensive even with the trade discount he said he gets.

Thanks.

mattysupra · 22 Feb 2007

sorry northerneruk. we seem to of taken over here. The answer to your main question is yes they are very reliable if you install correctly.Think i have answered your other questions.

rifraf74 · 22 Feb 2007

Matty

Could I just clarify the steps I should take ?

- Treat the section with no DPC with a liquid DPC.

- Fill in the sections of floor where the fireplace used to be with and then level off with the ARDEX SDT.

- Put down a damp proof membrane and then the underlay for the wooden flooring.

- Lay the flooring.

Where in the West Midlands are you ? And am I allowed to ask if your allowed to quote for this kind of work ?

mattysupra · 22 Feb 2007

I have not used it myself. I do use ardex materials tho and they all good but not my first choice i must say. This is more down to personal choice. I was with the lads from ardex a few weeks ago and from what i remember is that this isn't a smoothing compound but more for deep section work ( could be wrong with out phoning someone tho) Are you using this to fill in fire place or to skim over the whole floor? And what sort of wood floor you laying? floating or glue down?

rifraf74 · 22 Feb 2007

When the lad came to look over the floor he said he would be using something that dries rock solid to fill in the inch section where the fireplace used to be and then the Ardex SDT to level out the surface as the skim only needs to be a few mm thick.

The flooring I purchased is Kahrs which is floating / woodlock finish. Originally I wasn't going to use any trim to seperate the room but have since been advised that it would be better if I did.

mattysupra · 22 Feb 2007

i dont think im allowed to do that. Maybe you could try going to the national institute of carpet and floor layers. Try goggle (nicf) and then go to members? This should recommend people who have proven themselves with exams and tests etc. Master being the best. O and in bearwood by the way.

rifraf74 · 22 Feb 2007

Only asked as I'm over in Wolverhampton.

Thanks for all your help I'll start there then. We've ripped the house apart and started again and were coming to an end now and just wanted to make sure the final bit is done as well as the rest of the house.

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Liquid DPM on concrete floor

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