Roof on a conservatory
- Thread starter diyisfree
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Re the heating; a conservatory heating specialist who visited my installation to rectify a problem with the under floor heating installation advised that he always allowed 200w/sq metre when calculating the heat requirements for u/floor systems; 250w for conventional rads! In our 25 sq/m cons I’m planning to install a single, 1.8Kw wet radiator to supplement our rather expensive to run u/floor system!
Re the poly roof; I believe the number of layers (cells) is generally dependant on the panel thickness & the more cells you have the better; it’s the air that provides the insulation but as with windows e.g. triple glazing is more efficient than double glazing. The 25/30mm panels are generally 3 wall (2 cells); my 40mm panels are 5 wall (4 cells).
Re the poly roof; I believe the number of layers (cells) is generally dependant on the panel thickness & the more cells you have the better; it’s the air that provides the insulation but as with windows e.g. triple glazing is more efficient than double glazing. The 25/30mm panels are generally 3 wall (2 cells); my 40mm panels are 5 wall (4 cells).
Masona,
When you say " the reflective strip you fit inside the polycarbonate" Do you mean this is something you stick to the roof panels ? or some panels come with this ?
I intend getting the thickest roof panels that are available. I was also thinking of putting a wet underfloor pipe run but after reading so many posts regarding this, apparently the slab takes that long to heat up it isn't worth it ?
But surely if the heating is on anyway then the slab would eventually heat up and so long as i have installed Kingspan or simular, then it would take quite a while to cool ?
But i suppose if i were to fit a carpet in there and not tile the floor then the heat wouldn't rise through the carpet and underlay.
This is turning out more of an head ache than building the extension and totally renovating the house
When you say " the reflective strip you fit inside the polycarbonate" Do you mean this is something you stick to the roof panels ? or some panels come with this ?
I intend getting the thickest roof panels that are available. I was also thinking of putting a wet underfloor pipe run but after reading so many posts regarding this, apparently the slab takes that long to heat up it isn't worth it ?
But surely if the heating is on anyway then the slab would eventually heat up and so long as i have installed Kingspan or simular, then it would take quite a while to cool ?
But i suppose if i were to fit a carpet in there and not tile the floor then the heat wouldn't rise through the carpet and underlay.
This is turning out more of an head ache than building the extension and totally renovating the house
The reflective strips are actually inserted in between the layers; some companies supply the roof panels with foil already inserted. It’s also very good at preventing heat transfer from the sun on hot days but tends to make the cons a bit darker inside;
A wet under floor heating system is a good idea; these work much better than electric & are a lot cheaper to run & you should be able to run it off your existing wet system. A builder friend has bee installing piped systems in all of the new properties he builds for around 3 years now. You must insulate the floor directly under the heating medium so the heat is reflected upwards away from the slab or the warm up time will take ages; but the worms will be nice & warm!
There are a couple of ways of doing this;
• lay Celotex (Jabolite is not very efficient) between the slab & the screed
• or an insulating backer board (can be expensive!) can be laid directly on to the screed with the heating medium laid directly over this
• or do both!
It's worth getting it right; I thought I did my homework but astill managed to get a couple of things wrong. Surprisingly, there doesn't seem to be many cons companies that actually understand this sort of stuff, I suppose it's because they are mainly interested in selling the glazing units & don't really care if it costs you a fortune to heat it in winter or fry in summer!
A wet under floor heating system is a good idea; these work much better than electric & are a lot cheaper to run & you should be able to run it off your existing wet system. A builder friend has bee installing piped systems in all of the new properties he builds for around 3 years now. You must insulate the floor directly under the heating medium so the heat is reflected upwards away from the slab or the warm up time will take ages; but the worms will be nice & warm!
There are a couple of ways of doing this;
• lay Celotex (Jabolite is not very efficient) between the slab & the screed
• or an insulating backer board (can be expensive!) can be laid directly on to the screed with the heating medium laid directly over this
• or do both!
It's worth getting it right; I thought I did my homework but astill managed to get a couple of things wrong. Surprisingly, there doesn't seem to be many cons companies that actually understand this sort of stuff, I suppose it's because they are mainly interested in selling the glazing units & don't really care if it costs you a fortune to heat it in winter or fry in summer!
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Ah, I watched the video presentation. Very interesting.
So you insert these things into the cells of the roofing material ?
Looks time consuming but i can see the benefit. Are they expensive ?
Cheers guys for all the help. Now how do you both feel about spending the weekend up at mine helping me build the dam thing
So you insert these things into the cells of the roofing material ?
Looks time consuming but i can see the benefit. Are they expensive ?
Cheers guys for all the help. Now how do you both feel about spending the weekend up at mine helping me build the dam thing
Joe,
One thing i never took into consideration was the noise of rain on the cons. You say your roof was about a grand ? But what size is your cons ?
Mine will be 26 feet by 18 and in a square p shape. I cant see me getting a roof for that for a grand and like someone already mentioned, the size of this project would mean there will be a massive expanse of glass and a LOT of weight.
One thing i never took into consideration was the noise of rain on the cons. You say your roof was about a grand ? But what size is your cons ?
Mine will be 26 feet by 18 and in a square p shape. I cant see me getting a roof for that for a grand
and like someone already mentioned, the size of this project would mean there will be a massive expanse of glass and a LOT of weight.Neither can I & that’s a mother of a conservatory your building; if it’s a conventional ring beam construction, it’s unlikely to take the weight of a glass roof . Rain does make a noise on Poly roofs but the thicker, multi wall sections are much better than the 25mm offerings of old but it’s not unpleasantly intrusive on mine unless it’s a deluge.diyisfree said:Joe,
One thing i never took into consideration was the noise of rain on the cons. You say your roof was about a grand ? But what size is your cons ?
Mine will be 26 feet by 18 and in a square p shape. I cant see me getting a roof for that for a grand
Poly is a modern roof material which still seems to be evolving but 99% of the cons. manufacturers use it these days so it can hardly be regarded as ‘so DIY’! It reduces weight, glare & can be just as thermally efficient as glass, if not more. I looked at loads of cons. of varying construction (including timber) in different locations before choosing opaque Poly; aside from the cost, the biggest problem I found with glass (or clear Poly) is the heat build up & glare made it very uncomfortable on sunny afternoons, especially if South or West facing; fine if you want to grow Tomatoes but not if you want to sit comfortably in it!
At the end of the day, it’s a personal choice but I would advise you try & experience how the different types of construction perform in reality, especially if you’ve no previous experience with cons.
You can now get a fully insulated, sunblocking self cleaning glass for cons roofs with a U value of 1.1
I installed one on a very hot summers day, outside the sun was hot, inside the sun was still bright but it felt like I was in the shade, fantastic stuff!
Down side is expense, look to pay £100-£200 a metre.
If a south facing garden and money is an issue try heatshield opal poly, also great for stopping solar gain.
If anybody needs details of suppliers drop us a line.
I installed one on a very hot summers day, outside the sun was hot, inside the sun was still bright but it felt like I was in the shade, fantastic stuff!
Down side is expense, look to pay £100-£200 a metre.
If a south facing garden and money is an issue try heatshield opal poly, also great for stopping solar gain.
If anybody needs details of suppliers drop us a line.
Brickie,
Send details. Nothing ordered as yet and i'm still exploring every possibility
The fancy glass can stay were they make it because there is NO WAY i can afford that kind of money. How much do you think us traffic wardens get paid
JOKE I'm not really a traffic warden
Send details. Nothing ordered as yet and i'm still exploring every possibility
The fancy glass can stay were they make it because there is NO WAY i can afford that kind of money. How much do you think us traffic wardens get paid
JOKE I'm not really a traffic warden
Are you buying a complete roofing system?
Or are you thinking of making one in timber?
And are you still thinking along the orangery route, pillars, lintels and such like? If so you will need a box gutter around the inside of the parapet walling to support the roof and remove rain water, something else thats not cheap, look at £50-£100 a linear metre.
Or are you thinking of making one in timber?
And are you still thinking along the orangery route, pillars, lintels and such like? If so you will need a box gutter around the inside of the parapet walling to support the roof and remove rain water, something else thats not cheap, look at £50-£100 a linear metre.
Oooooh
Getting better now. Not sure i understand the Box gutter bit but would still like the brick pillars at least at the corners of the build and half way along each window run.
Why would i need all this ? Why cant i just do a conventional gutter like i did on my extension ? If you look at my OP i did ask how the roof is seated on the wall of a normal cons
All the info is VERY much appreciated
Getting better now. Not sure i understand the Box gutter bit but would still like the brick pillars at least at the corners of the build and half way along each window run.
Why would i need all this ? Why cant i just do a conventional gutter like i did on my extension ? If you look at my OP i did ask how the roof is seated on the wall of a normal cons
All the info is VERY much appreciated
Normally the roof sits on the window frame which is only 70mm wide, if you have a 275mm wall where are you going to sit the roof 'plate' as it were, inside skin, outside skin, on a cill with window board inside (look a bit silly) on the inside skin with lead covering the outer skin, worse.
This area needs a lot of thought or it will look messy, a normal roof doesnt show whats under neath it, its hidden, thats why I do mine with a parapet wall then box gutter on the inside. i could do a drawing if thats any use to you to show you what I mean.....
This area needs a lot of thought or it will look messy, a normal roof doesnt show whats under neath it, its hidden, thats why I do mine with a parapet wall then box gutter on the inside. i could do a drawing if thats any use to you to show you what I mean.....
Brickie,
A drawing would be awesome Cheers mate for taking the time.
I'll buy you a pint when you come to sort out the cock up's i do
A drawing would be awesome
Cheers mate for taking the time.I'll buy you a pint when you come to sort out the cock up's i do
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