installing aquapanels on brick walls

kysauk · 30 Mar 2007

Hi there, I'm hoping I can get some advise on the best way to install the aquapanels. I've searched the forums and came across a couple of different things and have read Wickes aquapanel instructions, and most mention stud partitions and batons, however my walls are brick.

I came across another thread that said the panels could be attached to the brick wall via wall plugs and aquapanel screws.

Would this be ok to install the panels right onto the brick wall via wall plugs? I assume I would space each plug etc as the instructions say for screwing into the wood batons? That thread also mentioned adhesive bonding of some kind. Would I need this? What type of adhesive and how is it applied... all over the panel, like applying No Nails to wood?

If it's not recommend to attach straight to the brick and to use wood batons, then what's the recommended thickness of the batons to use? My only concern I would have with using batons, is that this would bring my shower wall out about 40mm (if using 30mm batons). I know 40mm isn't very big, however the bathroom/shower is a tight area, and I'm concerned that the 40mm change in depth could possibly make it seem even smaller. I know probably pretty silly and may not make much of a difference in the end.

I've also read something about using dry wall adhesive. Do you use this along with attaching the panel via either plugs or batons? I'm not sure how this fits in? I don't recall reading it in the Wickes instructions, but I do recall reading it in a thread.

Any advise is much appreciated.

noseall · 30 Mar 2007

get yourself some dry wall adhesive and dab the boards to the wall with this. you can tap the boards nice and plumb this way.

once set (next day) the aquapanel can be plugged and screwed for extra support. just remember where the dab runs are and you'll have no problems.

Jasonb · 30 Mar 2007

You will get a better bond if you dab them with rapidset tile adhesive, still plug & screw once the adhesive has firmed up, you will need longer screws than the standard AP ones.

Jason

noseall · 30 Mar 2007

Jasonb said:
You will get a better bond if you dab them with rapidset tile adhesive, still plug & screw once the adhesive has firmed up, you will need longer screws than the standard AP ones.

Jason

i have to say Jason that you're probably right. though i do insist that the dabbing is only supplementary. mechanical fixings are essential. it is more of a levelling aid with a bit of grab thrown in.

unlike plasterboards, i haven't the experience of tile backer boards and their relationship with dry wall adhesive. a good test would be to see how difficult it is to physically pull off the wall.

kysauk · 30 Mar 2007

once set (next day) the aquapanel can be plugged and screwed for extra support

still plug & screw once the adhesive has firmed up

Sorry, this may seem quite daft, but I'm use to putting the plugs in prior to "hanging" an item (guess that would make me a noob at diy

), so would it be safe to say that you are pushing the wall plug right through the aquapanel into the brickwork? Does aquapanel make bigger screws then the standard 40mm? If not, then is there a special type of screw I should be looking to use?

Many Thanks!

kysauk · 31 Mar 2007

hmmm... after having another look at my shower situation, I'm beginning to think I maybe better off with the batons. Currently my shower pipes are ontop of the tiles and I would rather these behind the wall. I was going to chisel out the old plaster and into the brick to place the shower pipes then aquapanel over. I really don't fancy chiseling through brick for the pipes. So I've decided to remove the plaster back to the brick where the pipes and batons will be placed.

Originally, I did state that I didn't really want to install the batons in fear of the shower cubical being pushed out too far (by approx 40mm). However, I've decided on a compromise by removing the plaster to the brick. I've noticed that the plaster is about 25mm thick on the brick, so by doing this I'd only be adding another 20-25mm (approx) to the depth over all.

So now my question is... do you still recommend putting dry wall adhesive or flexible tile adhesive on the back of the board where it would meet the baton? What size baton would you recommend using? I'm thinking a 1.5" x 1" wide ?

Sorry for the change, but really appreciate all the advise. I just want to make sure I do things the correct way rather then finding out in 3 months time my whole shower is falling apart due to me being a noob

Moz · 31 Mar 2007

kysauk

*dot an dab* cement boards ....

an later drill an screw them the origional WALL ....a MUST ....!

respect to..
Jase .....telling the diyer the true trades of the job ..

Jasonb · 31 Mar 2007

Use 25x50 battens vertically spaced at 400centers if you are fixing the AP horizontally - usual way in older housed with 9ft ceilings. If its a newer house and two 1200 boards will reach the ceiling then set the battens at 450cts to pick up the board edges and one in the center. Plug and screw these to the wall every 400mm or so.

If its an outside wall and you have heating problems now is an ideal time to add some insulation between the battens either polystyrene or if you can afford the extra then kingspan or celotex.

Screw your Ap to the battens at the recommended distances using their screws, tape with their tape and fill with flexi tile adhesive.

Jason

kysauk · 31 Mar 2007

an later drill an screw them the origional WALL ....a MUST ....!

So I shouldn't use batons then? or are you meaning that I must drill the aqualpanel to the brick only and not the plaster/brick if I don't use batons? Sorry don't mean to sound daft, just want to clarify.

Many thanks![/quote]

kysauk · 31 Mar 2007

Ahhh... many thanks JasonB. It's clear now

Would you still dab and dot on the back of the AP to the baton with flexi tile adhesive? and with the batons being wood, would I need specific adhesive for wood or would any flexi adhesive work?

When I did my floor tiling I used specific adhesive/grout for my floor type which is concrete.

noseall · 31 Mar 2007

i honestly can't see the point in using battens (unless as Jason says, for inso' purposes) as you will be drilling and fixing twice, once for the board and once for the battens.

drilling takes time. dabbing is swift and you have the added bonus of being able to tap the boards perfectly level. the battens will just follow the shape of the wall however good/bad.

Jasonb · 31 Mar 2007

As noseall says dabing onto the brick will give the flattest wall with the least effort if done right, to get the battened wall the same you will probably have to shim the battens plumb and level along the wall. so more effort.

If you do go for battens then no need for any adhesive either to fix the battens or the AP.

Jason

kysauk · 1 Apr 2007

Hi Noseall

The reason I decided to go with the battens is so I could run the shower pipes behind the wall without having to chisel into the brick work or to chisel all the plaster work thats currently on the brick. There is about 2.5cm thickness of plaster on the brick. I was hoping to just be able to chisel the plaster back to the brick where I'll be putting the new battens and run the new shower pipes. Currently my shower pipes run down from the ceiling on top of the the tiles.

I was hoping to eliminate extra work, but as you and JasonB point out, I may be giving myself more work with the battens. However I am only hanging the AP on one wall - I thought this was best with putting pipes behind the wall. I did think about plastering over the pipes once chiseled but I am aware this could take an additional 3 days for the plaster to dry.

Also I was only putting up 4 battens, one horizontal along the bottem and 3 vertical as my shower wall width is only 80cm (shower is tray is 76cm)

Perhaps I'll see how easy the plaster comes off and then determine if I attach straight to the wall.

wonderb0y · 2 Apr 2007

I did think about plastering over the pipes once chiseled but I am aware this could take an additional 3 days for the plaster to dry.

and will also crack you plaster if you do not put them in conduit

if your putting pipes behind it would be best to stud out, if you get your battons level then the wall should be nice and plumb, plus it's less messy

kysauk · 2 Apr 2007

Thanks wonderb0y, Moz, Noseall, Jasonb

everyone's advise is greatly appricated. I start my project this weekend and hopefully all will go well. Many Thanks

diynot

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.

Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

installing aquapanels on brick walls

Moz

Similar threads