how hard is it to change heat exchanger?

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hi my mum has a alpha combi boiler i think its a cb24.
a plumber came out and checked the boiler because she wasnt getting hot water, and told her the heat exchanger was full of sludge.
he said she should have a new exchanger and one of those magnetic filter things fitted to collect all the sludge.
the guy said the insurance company wont pay for it to be fixed so she will have to pay for it herself.
she is a pensioner and has had no hot water for a week now.
if i buy one of these exchangers how hard would it be to fit?

any advice appreciated.
thanks

John
 
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Fairly easy if you know what your doing. Know how to drain and isolate boiler etc.

The manual would be needed and obviously a few tools!
 
This is not a job for a DIY'er.

I fail to see why the boiler can't be flushed out - especially if its a Worcester CB24. Wihtout the exact model it is a little hard to be specific.


Certainly fit a Magnaclean, but get the exchanger cleaned.
 
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Its ALPHA boiler, how do you clean the exchanger?

can i take it off and clean it out or do i have to buy another exchanger it cant be that hard to change surely?

what can happen its buggerd anyway and i cant afford to pay a plumber to do it.
i have a manual for it.

cheers

John
 
Sorry John.

Must agree with Dan on this, its not a DIY job. Power flush should clear sludge.

The problem is that the HE lies within sealed combustion chamber, failure to prove this is resealed correctly could prove fatal.

Sorry chief :(
 
I must admit i assumed we were talking about the plate. I wouldn't wanna do the main one myself TBH.
 
It is the plate although he has not specified that.

Tony
 
ok well thanks that looks like a no then?

how do i powerflush it?

is that expensive?

cheers

John
 
You could possibly remove the plate heat exchanger without removing the gas valve, if you have at the very least a quality pair of grips (water pump pliers) like Bahco.

You will need a few 1/2" and a few 3/4" fibre washers and a particular red o ring. You can get them all in a kit of washers but it is not a cheap kit, something like £30 with the VAT and there is a load of stuff in there you don't need, that is worth having for a heating engineer, all the seals for the whole boiler.

Isolate flow and return, isolate domestic water inlet, drain boiler.

Anyhow to get it off, which is not easy at all, undo the three nuts a little at a time each, the fourth connection has the red o ring and has to be forced up and off once the nuts are undone. It takes what one of us would consider a typical amount of force to get it free, a novice would quite likely give up scared of breaking something (which is a real possibility, at least bending something which would then require similar force to get back into place for the replacement of plate hx later). If this part of the operation goes smoothly (unlikely for a first timer) the seal on the other end of the pipe will remain sealed. Too much wrything and those also have to be seperated and new seals applied (supplied in kit). Worst case scenario to manage the job you might have to remove the pump, always nice to be able to remove gas valve for access but not essential. Can be done with pump and gas valve in situ.

Once off if you want change it, no idea of new cost sorry. No cheap ones available for this boiler, or at least I haven't spotted one yet. If anyone can source them please let me know.

It can be cleaned, it has four hydraulic connections in it, the larger two are primary, full of black stuff, the staining will give them away. These are the ones to clean. You can get a pretty good result just blasting mains pressure cold water through it both ways, agitating it with the palm of your hand with hammer bolws. No need to bother with the other side. In an emergency (late evening far away from home, didn't have one with me, I have poured a bottle of malt vinegar (borrowed from the students just happy to get some hot water) and let that soak in, then save it in a bowl, repeat the mains pressure flush, go back to vinegar, etc. After reassembly the boiler functioned like new for hot water.

Reassembly is quite difficult, the pipes don't want to approach the unions at the right angle, you need plumbers hands, extremely strong and dextrous. Most plumbing jobs are given us because of week hands and lack of tenacity of approach. To do tasks like get this plate heat exchanger back on you have to be as tenacious as a pit bull holding on to it's leed suspended 6ft in the air. But it is possible, I have never failed, I am not allowed to.

Afterwards, you can't really powerflush to be fair, but you could follow Chrises advise on mains flushing. Also treat water over four weeks with sentinel x400.

magnetic filter such as magnaclean is excellent buy I'd have one at home if I had a plate heat exchanger and a low water content boiler,
 
Your professional sounds like he knows what he's about, if the above seems difficult that is because for an office worker it is, get the professional in.

If however you are a motor mechanic a fitter a farmer or some other sort of person with strong hands and some mechanical feedback abilities mind to hands (which my apprentice hasn't got after a full year, be aware) plus the ability to avert a chrisis swiftly and competently, the jobs doable.
 
I should just go though differential diagnosis (I was a nurse).

Usual problem with hot water performance on this boiler is flow switch, less often is plate heat exchanger, seldome is diverter valve and not for quite a long time diaphragm.

When it's plate heat exchanger you get pump or thermister lockouts. It is NEVER the pump it is NEVER the thermister (if it is white), though if it is the plate the primary thermister at top of boiler on right front behind combustion chamber seal wants black muck cleaning off.

To test for flow switch isolate hot water inlet turn on tap, sit at boiler crack open cold inlet until you hear a slight click from microswitch then listen for fan start, that's enough, shut isolator. repeat and repeat and repeat 20 times at least. If after click it starts fan (fan will stop and start again, that is correct, just as long as it starts at all, you have proved flow switch is good. If even once fan doesn't start change flow switch. If no click change diaphragm.
 
Paul, I think you're posting answers to other topics onto this one. :confused:
 
Oh well it's fairly generic.

Just delaying going to work, have to disgorge enough tools from big useless lump installation van (Ducato Maxi big ****er) into neat compact service work van (Dispatch). Still got my own back on apprentice yesterday tidied van myself and buried his tools right in centre at bottom of pile, where he seems to put everything I ever need in a late night calll. See how he likes it.

Anyway the fault I'm going to look at sounds odd and not much fun. "Gas pressure too low on burner side ok at meter and pipes, please call asap." I just can't figure how anyone who can say that can't find out why? Must be a tough one or it's a numpties diagnosis (usual case).
 

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