plumbing into a detached garage

superted · 23 Aug 2007

Hi,

I looking at moving my washing machine into the detached garage, so I can put in a dishwasher into the kitchen. The washing machine requires a hot and cold feed. I have an outside tap outside the kitchen.
How would I go about getting hot and code water into the garge. Please help, wife doing my nut in!!!!!

diy_darren · 23 Aug 2007

You need to locate the closest hot and cold pipes to the garage and then decide the best/easiest route for the new pipework - you don't mention where abouts the garage is in relation to the kitchen or other rooms.

Don't forget you need drainage as well.

ChrisR · 23 Aug 2007

WM's are often quite happy on cold feed only, they heat the water electrically.
Some use hot feed only, on the 90 degree wash. If you ever use that, connect cold water to both inputs.
Watch for freezing.

superted · 23 Aug 2007

Wow, thanks for the prompt replies.

The garage is about 5 metres away from the house. The kitchen sink faces the garage.

If I wanted hot and code feeds in the garage for the washng machine, then how would I get the pipes from the kitchen to the garage? Can a put a little boiler there so I only have to have the cold feed.

Nige F · 23 Aug 2007

15litre unvented electrically heated water store

ask on sparkies forum about part P and the power for heater+w.machine

diy_darren · 23 Aug 2007

Is your house attached to the garage at all? From your description so far it sounds like the garage is not attached and the outside tap is the closest thing. EDIT - just re-read the title of the thread, of course it's detached, doh!

Someone who understands building regulations could advise how you get the water to the garage - probably just cold water though.

15litre unvented electrically heated water store

Why would you install a water heater when the washing machine can heat the water itself?

TicklyT · 23 Aug 2007

Tee both feeds to the cold supply.

With a long pipe run, you would probably have to run off almost enough water to fill the machine before the hot feed warmed up anyway.

A water heater would just duplicate the heater built into the machine.

Water that has been heated then allowed to cool is more prone to freezing in winter as well. (the heating drives out dissolved gases allowing ice crystals to form faster)

Nige F · 24 Aug 2007

superted said:
If I wanted hot and code feeds in the garage for the washng machine, then how would I get the pipes from the kitchen to the garage? Can a put a little boiler there so I only have to have the cold feed.

D`oh Darren

superted · 28 Aug 2007

Hi,

What do I need to do to get the pipe works to the garage from the kitchen. How low do I need to dig, what kind of piping do I need. Can I just use copper piping.

Doctor Drivel · 28 Aug 2007

superted said:
Hi,

What do I need to do to get the pipe works to the garage from the kitchen. How low do I need to dig, what kind of piping do I need. Can I just use copper piping.

If taking pipes from the house to the garage, they have to be in a duct (4" pipe) and insulated and below the frost line.

An option to consider is get gas into the garage and fitting a single point instant gas water heater in the garage. This may work out much cheaper and quicker than also taking the hot pipe out of the house to the garage, digging a deep trench for the water pipes from the house to the garage.

I would also consider using a cold fill only unless you need a sink in there. Put cold to each hose on the washing machine. Use plastic pipes in the garage as they are more resistant to frost damage and insulate all pipes very well.

superted · 28 Aug 2007

Hi, do you know how deep I need to dig so I reach the frost line

Agile · 28 Aug 2007

DD has got it wrong this time because he has forgotten that if its mains water supplied then the Water Regulations apply.

Basically the pipe has to be burried a minimum if 750 mm and its usual to use blue polythene pipe. It has to be brought up in a fully insulated and vermin proof duct into the property.

Strictly speaking it either has to be done by a WR certified person or inspected by the local water supplier. In practice at the back of a house few people bother.

Dont forget the drains! They are covered by the Building Regulations !

You also need an electricity supply normally taken with an armoured cable.

Tony

Doctor Drivel · 28 Aug 2007

Agile said:
DD has got it wrong this time because he has forgotten that if its mains water supplied then the Water Regulations apply.

No. I have it right.

Basically the pipe has to be burried a minimum if 750 mm and its usual to use blue polythene pipe. It has to be brought up in a fully insulated and vermin proof duct into the property.

750mm = below the frost line.

Strictly speaking it either has to be done by a WR certified person or inspected by the local water supplier. In practice at the back of a house few people bother.

After the stop cock they are not particularly bothered.

Agile · 28 Aug 2007

Doctor Drivel said:
After the stop cock they are not particularly bothered.

Can you name anyone in a water supply company who has ever said that? Or is that just drivel ?

Certainly, on my Thames Water regulations course they said that they take ALL instances of non-compliance seriously? If I see any non compliance they want me to inform them!

If its below 750 mm then it does not have to be in a duct or insulated !

Tony

Doctor Drivel · 28 Aug 2007

Agile said:
Doctor Drivel said:

After the stop cock they are not particularly bothered.

Click to expand...

Can you name anyone in a water supply company who has ever said that? Or is that just drivel ?

Certainly, on my Thames Water regulations course they said that they take ALL instances of non-compliance seriously? If I see any non compliance they want me to inform them!

If its below 750 mm then it does not have to be in a duct or insulated !

Tony

After the stoptap it not the water companies problem.

diynot

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plumbing into a detached garage

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