adding 6 bulkhead lights

kokoshka · 30 May 2004

I'm adding 6 60w bulkhead lights around the loft. I have read manuals etc and consequently wired them in parallel ( I think). So red goes into first light terminal and out again and onto light 2. Same with black, into other first light terminal and out to light 2. Same pattern for the rest terminating with light 6. The idea being that if 1 bulb fails the rest stay on. Not earthed, the instructions tell me not to. I wanted to control from landing 2 way switch, by fitting 2 gang switch instead. But I get nothing or all very dim, a bit like myself I fear. Can anyone help?

breezer · 30 May 2004

you have wired the lights right, its the supply / switch connections you have wrong.

you can not do it the way you are trying to. (guess you figured that one)
you have a new circuit so it needs a new supply (you are trying to use the supply for the landing light)

you need to find a cable in the loft which is the supply to all the lights it loops in and out, (just like you have wired your new lights) so the best place to look is the last light on the "run"

have a look in the "for refernce" section these forums (thats what its for) you will see a couple of drawings for ceiling roses, your "supply" will be the one marked "to next light" in the drawings, and it will be your 6 lights you have installed (obciously you need a switch cable)

kokoshka · 31 May 2004

Many thanks Breezer, it's all working well. Have a virtual beer on me!

breezer · 31 May 2004

cheers

plugwash · 31 May 2004

one final issue...

you should always conenct the earth through (using terminal block if needed) even if the fitting itself doesn't need to be connected to it

kokoshka · 31 May 2004

Thanks Plugwash, I hadn't connected earth throughout, but will now sort that out. Have you saved my life?

securespark · 31 May 2004

Possibly. His fee for doing so is a modest £10,000.00+VAT, plus 25% of any life insurance benefits. Please make a bankers draft payable to

Mr P Wash.

Emtpencil · 12 Oct 2004

Interesting about continuing through with cpc. I have a question. Do you need to do the same with 12v halogen spot lights ( SELV ) ?

Emtpencil · 12 Oct 2004

Also is there a limit on how many JB's you introduce to a lighting circuit ?
I am halfway through installing 6 selv lights, 4 single wall lights ( each having its own switch) & two decorative outside lights. This is an add on from an old outside light which is in my new extension. I am using 3 20amp JB's & 3 5a JB's for the 6 spots, & 2 outside lights that are controlled by a switch. Where the old outside light was I have introduced a 5a switched spur to intervene should anything untoward occur.

Damocles · 13 Oct 2004

Depends. The low voltage side has gone through a transformer and so is isolated from earth. Also at a low enough voltage not to be a shock risk. What does it say on the packet?

The attick cables are at mains. Someone may want to put on different lamps which need an earth. It is a very bad idea to have cable complete with an earth wire but which is not actually connected to earth.

As to junction boxes, lighting circuits are generally made of junction boxes (ceiling roses). The thing about junction boxes is to make them accessible should you ever need to go back inside.

This old outside light, was it on the original lighting circuit? if it was, then it should already have a 5/6A fuse/mcb and does not need another. If it was already a ring spur, then it should (should!) have a fused connector.

Do we take it you have the supply for the light handy now inside the new room, not just the switched supply? Or did you mean that you have replaced the original switch for the outside light with a FCU?

Emtpencil · 13 Oct 2004

No, the switch wire is still inside the house, the supply for the old light is outside the house/inside the new extension. The reason I was going to introduce the switched spur is so I can extend on from the supply & by keeping it accessible, as the JB's (once the plaster board has been fixed) wont be. Obviously I will check all connections & switches to make sure everything is working prior to the plasterboard being installed.
I know that its always best to leave JB's accessible but the roof on the extension is cathedral style, with no attic & I have no other options but to put them in the roof.
Any suggestions ?

plugwash · 13 Oct 2004

there are three types of jont that according to the wiring regs do not need to be accessible

crimped, soldered and resin encapsulated

of theese crimps (which should be enclosed in a chockbox) are the most practical (make sure you get a decent ratchet crimper though

Damocles · 13 Oct 2004

It is normal to make connections in wall boxes behind fittings or at the switch. I can't really make any better suggestions without a better idea where the switch, supply, etc are located and what the obstacles are.

Did you say if this is a 5A lighting circuit? Adding an extra fuse will not introduce any extra safety (a cartridge fuse might not pop in the event of a fault before the mcb trips). It may introduce more confusion or annoyance in the future. A blank plate if you do not need a switch either?

If you have only one switch plate, you could take the supply to the switch box and then run wires to each lamp?

andy · 13 Oct 2004

Emtpencil said:
Interesting about continuing through with cpc. I have a question. Do you need to do the same with 12v halogen spot lights ( SELV ) ?

you should NOT earth a SELV supply. the idea is that it is 'seperated'

Damocles · 13 Oct 2004

Well if you did it would be and elv. more friendly?

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adding 6 bulkhead lights

breezer

breezer

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