Repairing a leaking wooden window

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Hi folks,

I'm having a few issues with my bathroom window. This is basically an aluminium window encased in a wooden frame.

What's been happening is that, over the years, the condensation has dripped down into the woodwork below the frame. This has then gone into the brick wall below, meaning the plasterwork is soaked, both in my bathroom and in the kitchen below. It's been getting pretty bad of late.

Today, I removed the window sill and most of the length of wood which sits beneath the frame. Parts of it are saturated and rotten.

I now plan to get a new length of wood to replace what's there now. But I wondered if some of you could advise the best way to fit it. Here are few queries I have:

1. Do I need to prepare that piece of wood at all? If so, what with? I was just going to varnish it, but does it need any kind of water seal treatment?

2. Do I need to prepare the brickwork on which it sits? If so, what with? Again, water seal? Or should I just let it "breathe"? Or maybe cement?

3. Once the new wood is in, what's the best sealant to use around the window to ensure this doesn't happen again?

Any advice would be gratefully received.

Many thanks,

Andy

 
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First off replacing like for like sounds as though, at best, the problem will simply be delayed i.e. not fixed, so hopefully you've given some thought to that.
Second - the bottom runner, is that part of a wooden sill extending out beyond the external alum framework and is that in good condition or rotted? ...pinenot :)
 
Thanks for the reply. Yes, the bottom runner extends to the outside. That's in a pretty bad condition, too, so I was planning to replace the whole thing.

Can anyone help?
 
OK, then it might be simpler to unscrew the alum frame from the timber sub frame, remove this and cutting whats left of the bottom sill piece away. That's when the awkward bit comes in cutting away the joints at the bottom of the stiles to each side, now free at their bottoms see if you can tweak them out from the slap walls to allow a poly dpc to slip up some 150 mm or so. Fit the dpc across the width and up the wall by the 100 mm or what ever you can but no more You are now set to refit both the new sill and the alum fame back in place...pinenot :)
 
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Many thanks pinenot.

Yep, I was planning to remove that bottom piece anyway and fit a new piece of timber.

What is a poly DPC, though?

Also, does it matter what kind of wood I use - hard, soft or whatever - if I'm sealing it with silicone once in?

Cheers,

Andy
 
PS Just Googled this and found out that it's a damp-proof course. But this is a first-floor window.
 
Polythene DPC or Visqueen might be a better explanation for you.
The current wood looks like a Mahogany so like for like? but if the existing is painted outside you can make your own choice. I would want to protrude the new bit into the room side 6 mm or so to provide a check to rest the inner sill on.
All this does not address the original problem of the condensation dampness though, have you given that any further thought?? ...pinenot
:)
 
Hiya,

Yep, the problem is called by condensation. I started to renovate the window - removed all the sealant etc, intending to re-paint and re-varnish.

But then I launched my own business, so it all went on the back burner. It meant all the condensation just had nowhere to go but through the wood and into the wall.

And yep, I know about ventilation now, so have the window open most of the time. The wall's drying out a treat now.

Shall go for a hard wood then. Any advice on the best DPC to use and where to buy from? And what's the best sealant to use when I put everything back together and need to re-seal?

Thanks for all your help!
 
Something like a 4" dpc, if there's any building work in your vicinity, ask if you can get a meter or so, but you should approach the site manager for this unless you know a brickie.
Hardwood would be a good choice, profiled as an external sill of course, you'll also need to allow for the dpc clearance, any resultant gaps should be filled, expanding foam would be my choice assuming there's enough of a gap. The alternative would be a polysulphide,applied from both sides and colour to match sealing around the window again...pinenot :)
 
Pinenot, you are a gentleman and a scholar. Thank you so much! :)
 
PS Does the damp course just need to sit between the brick and new timber - or fold down the inside and/or outside wall? Any diagrams gratefully received! :D
 

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