I've been reading through the forums and i see you're the man to ask on the following problem
I would really appreciate it if i could get some advice on a floor i want to lay.
basically i have a 24 sqm floor in a domestic studio space which will be used as a wood workshop, no forklifts or the like!
It is made up of a 6 inch reinforced slab with dpm seperating it from insulation below.
The floor is fairly level with about a max 4mm difference over the 4m width, i put this down to footfall over the past 2 yrs, thats how long the slab has been down for.
I would like to have a smooth finish on top, not a glossy polished finish but just something that is flat and doesn't break up under foot fall.
I also don't want it to be very thick, ideally between 5-10mm
I have been advised by manufacturers but not one gives the same answer, sbr in concrete, larsen slc2000, ardex k301.
I don't want to break the bank but i don't want the floor to crack! any suggestions would be greatly appreciated?
Thanks for your reply, it sounds complicated do you have any diagrams. you lost me on the plywood, gusset ect. I have been quoted 1400 to do the timbers. I thought that was expensive its only 2.1 mtr wide not sure on the length. would like to have a go myself but just need the right info. The guy i had out today said i need 9*2= 2 6mtr lengths hips. 9*2 2mtrs 400 ridge. 2 mtr 400* 1 mtr 200 sheets of ply *5 25 mil thick. 6*2 4mtr lenghts *40 and 9*3 purlins 2mtr 100 * 2 and 3mtr *1. Any help would be a great help thanks Carl.
I have been given your name as someone who is in the area and was wondering if you would be interested in commenting on the job in the below thread and if you would be interested or available for the job.
I tried to sent a message, but cannot as we are not freinds.
I just wanted to thank you for your feedback on my inital probelm that i posted in http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1521756#1521756
in the end I put in additional opposing braces althugh i have not (yet) tied them in a "triangle" at purlin height as you suggested. That still needs to be done !
Anyway, sorry for the belated thanks - your help was appreciated.
I am roofing my porch at the moment and needs some advice, I've put the rafters in place but I am unsure what to do know before the felt and tiles etc go on, I need to do something with each side of the lean to style roof , to go from the last rafter each side over the brick work to keep think neat. Probably not explained very well, will send pics if it helps.
After a bit of delay i've now sorted some pictures and measurement of my roof here http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=265488 Just wondering if you could take a look as was hoping to make a start at the weekend.
hi, just wondered if you can give me some advice please? We are planning a conservatory on our new house, the problem is that there is a man hole cover where the wall of the conservatory would be, on looking in this this morning i have noticed that my neighbours pipes run into this as I am a mid terraced house. what would be the option here as the conservatory comapny said they can make it smaller to make it part of the conservatory, or to move it. I have also read it is possible to bridge it? Can you advise please?
Firstly many thanks for your reply noseall, unfortunately my lack of knowledge on roofing has led to not using correct terminology refering to length and width instead of span? the span is actually the larger dimension 4m so am I right in saying that this alters your response? If so how? I do not want to use a purlin but am unsure if a 4m span without is good building practice?
Hello noseall,do you know if kingspan insulation can be fited to felt roof with hot bitumin like other insulation boards?if so can it then be felted onto?Regrds cumbriaroofer30yrsexp.
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