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electrics:installation_techniques:micc |
electrics:installation_techniques:micc 2009/10/17 00:11 current |
| | + | ====== How to terminate an MICC gland ====== |
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| | + | [b][u]RF Lighting's guide to terminating MICC cable.[/u][/b] |
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| | + | You will need: |
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| | + | [img]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i62/RFLighting/micc1.jpg[/img] |
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| | + | From left to right: Pot (this one has an earth tail), pot seal, gland, potting compound, joistripper, pot crimper, stub sleeving, pliers. |
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| | + | [b]Step 1:[/b] |
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| | + | [img]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i62/RFLighting/micc2.jpg[/img] |
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| | + | Cut the cable off square. This can be done with a junior hacksaw, a ringing tool or sharp cable shears. |
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| | + | If the MICC is old, cut 100mm - 200mm off the end. The magnesium oxide is hygroscopic, and will have absorbed moisture. |
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| | + | You will not be able to get a joistripper started if the cable has been cut with sidecutters or pliers. |
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| | + | [b]Step 2:[/b] |
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| | + | [img]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i62/RFLighting/micc3.jpg[/img] |
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| | + | Start to strip the cable by turning the joistripper clockwise down the cable. |
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| | + | [b]Step 3:[/b] |
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| | + | [img]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i62/RFLighting/micc4.jpg[/img] |
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| | + | When you have stripped the cable to the desired length, lightly grip the cable with your pliers. Run the joistripper upto the pliers. This will give you a nice clean square cut. |
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| | + | [img]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i62/RFLighting/micc5.jpg[/img] |
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| | + | [b]Step 4:[/b] |
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| | + | [img]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i62/RFLighting/micc6.jpg[/img] |
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| | + | Put the gland top, olive and gland bottom onto the cable. Do not tighten it up yet. |
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| | + | [b]Step 5:[/b] |
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| | + | [img]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i62/RFLighting/micc7.jpg[/img] |
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| | + | Screw the pot onto the cable until the sheath of the cable is flush with the bottom of the pot. |
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| | + | Be very careful not to twist the cable whilst screwing the pot on. |
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| | + | Then pull the wires slightly apart, and test the wire ends for shorts with an insulation tester. |
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| | + | [b]Step 6:[/b] |
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| | + | [img]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i62/RFLighting/micc8.jpg[/img] |
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| | + | Slightly over-fill the pot with potting compound. You should work it in a bit at a time from either side of the pot. |
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| | + | Use the backing paper from the compound to push it into place, being careful not to touch the compound, as this could contaminate it with grease / dirt, which could cause the pot to not properly insulate the end. |
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| | + | [b]Step 7:[/b] |
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| | + | [img]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i62/RFLighting/micc9.jpg[/img] |
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| | + | Slide the pot seal into place, making sure the wires are not twisted. |
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| | + | [b]Step 8:[/b] |
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| | + | [img]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i62/RFLighting/micc10.jpg[/img] |
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| | + | Insert the pot assembly into your pot crimper, making sure the three prongs on the crimper are between where the wires come through the seal. |
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| | + | [b]Step 9:[/b] |
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| | + | [img]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i62/RFLighting/micc11.jpg[/img] |
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| | + | Crimp the pot. |
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| | + | [img]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i62/RFLighting/micc12.jpg[/img] |
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| | + | You can see in the second picture what I mean about lining the prongs up on the crimper between where the wires come through the seal. |
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| | + | [b]Step 10:[/b] |
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| | + | [img]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i62/RFLighting/micc13.jpg[/img] |
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| | + | Sleeve the wires with stub sleeving, and then carry out another insulation test to ensure the cable is fault free. You will then need to carry out a continuity test to give the cable it's polarity. |
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| | + | [b]Step 11:[/b] |
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| | + | [img]http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i62/RFLighting/micc14.jpg[/img] |
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| | + | Slide the gland into place. You would normally tighten this up once the gland has been screwed into whatever the cable is being terminated into. |
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| | + | [b]Step 12:[/b] |
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| | + | Go wash your hands. Magnesium oxide is poisonous, and must not be ingested. |
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| | + | :D |