Replacing the Kitchen

Here are some more pictures

3rd Kitchen Light Switch (By Bathroom Door)

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The 1st gang is for the bathroom light & the 2nd gang (On 2way switching with 2nd gang of 1st Kitchen Light Switch, by the dining room door) is for the 4 downlights in the ceiling, down the bathroom end of the Kitchen.

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Corner Floor cupboard on the cooker side of the kitchen

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Worktop Socket

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The socket for the worktop socket

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The kitchen wall with some of the old wood cladding removed

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The new plastering on the wall above meter cupboard

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The fridge socket

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The 1st Kitchen Light Switch

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The 1st Gang is the 5 kitchen downlights at the dining room end of the kitchen, the 2nd Gang is the 4 kitchen downlights at the bathroom end of the kitchen, & the 3rd Gang is all of the undercupboard lights.

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Kitchen Downlights

The paper on the ceiling was done in 3 lengths 4 & a half meters long.

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The Tiling

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The 1st undercupboard light

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I like that worktop power strip very good idea. How did you get on with joining the worktop ? I messed up when i fitted my kitchen as the wife wanted scribed joints rathe rthan metal edge strips.
 
A couple of questions, if i may.

The worktop powerstrip - why? You have a perfectly good wall there to affix sockets to. And what are the supply arrangements?

The socket in the final picture - what is engraved onto it? And who did the engraving? And at what cost?
 
A couple of questions, if i may.

The worktop powerstrip - why? You have a perfectly good wall there to affix sockets to. And what are the supply arrangements?

The worktop powerstrip, is there, as I did not want to have lots of sockets etc. in the tiling, to have to cut round (it also makes it easier to clean the tiles off. The only things which are in the tiling are the cooker hood FCU & Socket, the cooker isolator, & the DP switch for the dishwasher.

The worktop powerstrip is plugged into a 15a round pin socket, which is supplied from a FCU with a 13a fuse in it, supplied as part of the kitchen ring.

The socket in the final picture - what is engraved onto it? And who did the engraving? And at what cost?

The socket says: "undercupboard lights socket", & it is not engraved, it is a label which I did on my Dymo LetraTag.
 
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Pictures of the Sink Side of the Kitchen

The Sink side before

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The old Sink plumbing

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The old from the old sink waste pipe

The hole is so big, because as I removed the old waste pipe the bricks round the hole fell down :!: :mad:

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The hole filled up

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The wall rendered

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The chasing for the dishwasher socket

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The cables & backbox for the dishwasher socket in place

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The Dishwasher Socket wiring

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Finshed Scale Reducer & Dishwasher Socket

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The wiring for the Dishwasher DP Switch

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The dishwasher & utitly room cables

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Utitly Room sockets & smoke alarm cables

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Undercupboard sockets FCUs wires

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Undercupboard socket cable

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The Undercupboard socket FCUs

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The 2nd Kitchen light switch cables

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The JB which is temp. making the kitchen ring part of the downstairs ring

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The New plumbing

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The pipes going up are:
The pipe on the left side of the picture is the Rising Main to the Loft (for the cold water tank & Boiler), the next two pipes are for the bathroom rad., the 22mm pipe is for the hot water to the kitchen & bathroom (The red gate valve on this pipe is new, as before there was no way to isolate the hot water to the kitchen/bathroom, other than draining down the hot water cylinder), & the blue MPDE pipe is for the outside tap.

The other pipes are:

The LCS pipe coming up from under the kitchen floor is the Mains water supply, the stopcock on the left of this pipe is for the outside tap/bathroom/rising main cold supply. And the stopcock on the right of this pipe is for the kitchen/utitly room cold supply.

The lower copper pipe is the hot water supply to the kitchen/utitly room.



All of the new plumbing in the kitchen

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The new feeds for the dishwasher & utitly room

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The new feeds for the kitchen sink

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The utitly room pipes

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The capped off iso valves will be for the utitly room sink


The new outside tap pipe

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The outside tap pipe (above the ceiling over the bathroom door)

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The new outside tap

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Nice Job.

The tiles under the wall cupboards are round the wrong way though. Whole tiles above the work top - half tiles under the wall units. Normal height person wont see they are halves

;) ;)
 
nice job with the electrics, but i think that might have cost you a fortune.

whats with the 110v lighting, and the 230v blue leads.

yes all ok if your a builder on a building site, and they are readily available but to buy them yourself it a little harsh. I would just run a 6mm cable into the shed from a mcb, and then maybe into an old wireless 2 way board or something, far far cheaper.

also why the sockets for the lights above the worktops, why not a 1mm cable from the light switch too the top of the first cupboard, then to the next, then too the next. Then throw a 20amp JB on top of the cupboard with flex down the back into the light.

Like the idea of the worktop socket thing, nice but wont it be a pain when its always up for things like toaster, microwave etc.

And why call a Double Socket a DS and a Fused Switch Unit a FSU.? I prefer DS or a Sw Spur...


i think the industry may have changed alot since i left.. :(


I was an domestic electrician, but gave it up to become an aircraft electrician / avionics engineer..
 
Nice Job.

The tiles under the wall cupboards are round the wrong way though. Whole tiles above the work top - half tiles under the wall units. Normal height person wont see they are halves

;) ;)


The tiles had to go that way around so that the tiling under the cupboards was in line with the tiling on the wall by the bathroom door.

Also there will be upstand along the back of the worktops, so the half tiles will not notice.
 
nice job with the electrics, but i think that might have cost you a fortune.

whats with the 110v lighting, and the 230v blue leads.

yes all ok if your a builder on a building site, and they are readily available but to buy them yourself it a little harsh. I would just run a 6mm cable into the shed from a mcb, and then maybe into an old wireless 2 way board or something, far far cheaper.

The 110v lights were used for the temp. lighting for about 2 months while the major work was done. The 2 Blue 230v leads are not for supplieing the shed with power, they are temp. leads to supply the washing machine, Tumble Dryer & Wine Cooler, which are in the covered courtyard outside the kitchen, from the shed power supply. The covered courtyard is going to be converted into a utility room soon, so it will have its own ring circuit (There are two 2.5mm T+E cables run to the courtyard from by the cu, ready for when the courtyard is converted)

also why the sockets for the lights above the worktops, why not a 1mm cable from the light switch too the top of the first cupboard, then to the next, then too the next. Then throw a 20amp JB on top of the cupboard with flex down the back into the light.

That is what has been done, but with the sockets instead of the JBs.

Like the idea of the worktop socket thing, nice but wont it be a pain when its always up for things like toaster, microwave etc.

No, as it is only up when needed, as the microwave is in the dining room, & the worktop socket is only used for the toaster, or the mixer, or the jusier when needed.

And why call a Double Socket a DSO and a Fused Switch Unit a FSU.? I prefer DS or a Sw Spur...

I call them that as that is what I was taught to call them.
 
More importantly,

have you finished the kitchen yet ? I noticed its almost 1 year to the day that you started :D
 
I've emailed him, requesting an update - its been 2 months since his last activity on the forum.
 
More importantly,

have you finished the kitchen yet ? I noticed its almost 1 year to the day that you started :D

I've emailed him, requesting an update - its been 2 months since his last activity on the forum.

I will post up some more pictures at soon, It is just that I have been busy at Work & with having Driving Lessons.
 

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