Repositioning flue

PaulAH · 1 Dec 2004

I'm fed up with the smell from our new (oil-fired) flue, which is mounted on an outside wall at waist height.

Can a conventional chimney take a balanced flue? The manufacturer, Boulter, sells an extension kit that's long enough for a single-story building but no higher. This one is two storeys plus a tall chimney stack. It could be converted with a stainless liner but would presumably have to draw air from the room, which I don't want because there are big pressure differences between the ground floor and the chimney top during high wind, due to local topography. Any suggestions? Thanks.

ChrisR · 1 Dec 2004

Up to Boulter I'd have thought. I bet they say no.

taydo · 1 Dec 2004

How about a high level balanced flue. What boiler is it?

PaulAH · 2 Dec 2004

Boulter Camray 5 Utility 65/90

A high level balanced flue is what I'm after. But how high is high?

oilman · 2 Dec 2004

......there are big pressure differences between the ground floor and the chimney top during high wind, due to local topography.

You make it sound like your'e half way up a mountain, come on, it's only Saffron Walden

. There are thousands of boilers around East Anglia in all sorts of places which work on conventional flues. You don't have to draw the air from the room. As you have a BF now, you can just fit the snorkel tube from the burner through the wall and stuff the exhaust up a conventional flue.

If you REALLY have a problem with high winds, you can fit something like an "Aerocowl E" cowl (available from Euroheat.com).

PEDANTICVINDICTIVEMAN · 2 Dec 2004

Rip out and fit LPG boiler, I sell propane and propane accessories when my narrow euretha lets me.

PaulAH · 2 Dec 2004

Oilman, you're a sneaky old bug ger. How d'you know I live in Saffron Walden? (not in - nearish).

No it's not not the Highlands of Scotland but two things conspire to make the pressure differences. 1) An expanse of sloping fields at the back which funnel westerlies onto the roof. 2) A steep-pitched roof with chimney that ends below ridge height, creating another pressure point for those westerlies.

This isn't just theory. The old room-breathing boiler suffered alarming blow-back during these conditions. A surveyor (what's he know?) checked the pot and reckoned there's not a lot we could do about it.

Your "stuff it up" solution sounds OK with the air inlet outside, which may help to reduce pressure differentials, but aren't we into big bucks for a stainless steel liner plus all the chimney works?

Paul

oilman · 2 Dec 2004

........chimney that ends below ridge height,

Oops, cardinal sin, building regs allow it but it's a disaster (as you found). The liner in the chimney is not very expensive, compared to the cost of balanced flue sections, that WILL cost.

Can you stick a pot on top?

Oh....., less of the "sneaky"

PaulAH · 3 Dec 2004

Oh....., less of the "sneaky"

I am riven with guilt at such a bad choice of word. "Canny" more appropriate in your case

Can you stick a pot on top?

Er... the technical language is lost on me.[/quote]

oilman · 3 Dec 2004

Ok then, canny extent the chimney to above ridge height?

PaulAH · 3 Dec 2004

Nice one Oilman. Y can but Y doesn't think it's worth it because the chimney would need taking up quite a long way, about 4ft, to get it well above the ridge. Got any spare guy ropes?

I'm warming to your outside snorkel arrangement. Since the intake would be on the same west face as the chimney, the pressure differential would be much reduced, I guess. And if it did blow black, it would puff into the garden.

Are there any caveats with this arrangement? Is it common to draw from outside? The snorkel doesn't look long enough to take through the wall as it is, and would need some fittings. Can't see anything in the Boulter catalogue. Do you know of anything? Canny tell us?

PaulAH · 3 Dec 2004

Oh yes, and we're all waiting for your rant about Part P (below),

diynot

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Repositioning flue

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