cooker connection

sween · 4 Jun 2009

Hi, hope someone can help, newbee to this but very interested in learning.

Can i replace a FCU from a cooker control unit with a DP double socket to connect a both plugs from an indesit trade single electric oven and a gas hob or should i retain the FCU and connect the double socket to it. What fuse size should i put in the FCU if the second option is better. Have been reading the forum and not entirely sure if ethier will work live in hope.

consumer unit has 30 amp fuse.

Steve · 4 Jun 2009

Why a DP double socket? Who's going to be switching it on and off on a regular basis if its behind the oven . . .

Fit two single unswitched sockets.

You have DP isolation at the control unit and by unplugging the plugs.

sparkyspike · 4 Jun 2009

Are you saying that you have a CCU above counter, with a FCU below which is supplying the cooker at the moment? And you want to replace this FCU with two 13A outlets?

What is the load of the oven? 3kW?

Sorry to answer a question with more questions...!

sween · 4 Jun 2009

Thanks for the help.

Have a spare new DP double socket and dry wall double box, but could get the others if this is not suitable. Am i keeping the fused unit and taking the sockets on 2.5 tw/earth cable as the cable from the the cooker unit to the FCU is heavy duty. Power in the book says 2250-2400w take it this is 2.4 kw ?

Cheers

sween · 4 Jun 2009

To sparkyspike

Yes to your clarification

Book says 2250w -2400w

Thanks for the help.

sparkyspike · 4 Jun 2009

Ideally, you wouldn't have a FCU below counter, as you have to pull out the cooker if the fuse blows. But this isn't going to happen every day and you have the CCU if you want to turn off the oven in a hurry.

So, keep the FCU in place, with a 13A fuse in it, and downstream of it fit:

a) A 20A flex outlet plate for the oven, plus a single unswitched socket for the hob.

Or:

b) Two single unswitched sockets for each

Or:

c) A double socket for both.

These are in order of preference.

I would prefer to have the higher load of the oven wired into an outlet plate. This way you will have a 13A fuse in the FCU for both the oven and the hob. Then you will have a 3A plugtop fuse in the hob plug to protect that. You won't have two fuses for the oven to worry about, nor a 13A 3-pin plug which is not as secure a connection as a flex outlet plate.

sween · 4 Jun 2009

Thanks for the info and the quick reply.

I think i will go for option B as i read somewhere that removing the plug can invalidate the warranty for the oven in some cases and both the hob and the oven came as a set.

Cheers Sween

sparkyspike · 4 Jun 2009

Fair enough.

I'm pretty sure that removing a plug will not invalidate any guarantee. It's common practice to remove a plug for appliances which are integrated.

I'm prepared to stand corrected on this though...

powersurge · 5 Jun 2009

We had a tumble drier once from a major electrical chain, it had a motor fail after 3 months and they TRIED to refuse service under warranty because I had cut the plug off and fitted a new non-standard one (Only difference: it was black!)

Their reason ? That they only did service/exchange on these units and the next customer receiving our reconditioned unit would expect it in original condition complete with moulded plug.

B***s to that - I insisted on a new unit, not an older repaired one, and eventually (long battle) got refunded and went somewhere else. The chain are now defunct - thank god! - most retailers are more understanding - or are they ?

BS3036 · 5 Jun 2009

Very frequently the installation instructions specify cutting off the plug, to pass cable through kitchen furniture. It's hard to see how they can then turn round and say you invalidated the warranty.

powersurge · 5 Jun 2009

I think I found a company full of "Jobswoths" - just cant help thinking of that incident with every one I cut off now !

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cooker connection

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