Cutting down flat head screws ie those on sockets

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I wonder what Garymo and bas think to your maverick 'i use a dremel' suggestion? Its kinda wacky and leftfield, but who knows, lets scrutinise further.......
 
A Dremel seems like a good way to cut the screw down.

And if you put a nut onto it before you cut it, you can use it to clean up the end of the thread....
 
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A Dremel seems like a good way to cut the screw down.

And if you carefully dress the end with a file you'll clean up any sharp edges....
 
A Dremel seems like a good way to cut the screw down.

And if you carefully dress the end with a file you'll clean up any sharp edges....

And if you get some 500 grit emery paper with a fine tapered needle file, you will remove the minor burrs a file will leave...... :)
 
What a load of old tosh - just whack a self tapper in, or a wood screw :eek: :D

Now where did I park me horse - ye ha :D
 
To get around this problem I carry a number of 35mm back boxes.
When the current box is too shallow, I take it out (always popular in a newly tiled kitchen) and replace with a 35 mil.

No need to cut any screws.
 
for nigh on 35 years i've been using one of those flat crimp tools like on page 1 of this thread for cutting screws and its been the best tool for the job never failing to cut the thread perfectly so that it screws in without any trouble, carp at doing crimps mind :D
 
In my limited experience, I've found screws supplied with accessories being too short to be more of a problem. I imagine the cut-off ends of shortened screws would be the perfect thing to make screws that are too short longer. What would be the best way to attach these extensions, though - would superglue be OK, or ought they be soldered?

Liam
 
I like epoxy resin.

You have to be careful extending a screw though, because only the extended bit has a usable thread. The only way round this is to take a nut, grease its inside so it doesn't stick, and screw it on. Then adaldite the extra bit on, but, before it sets unscrew the nut till it overlaps the joint, ensuring a continuous thread pitch.

I do this all the time.
 
Put sockets on both sides of the wall and use studding all the way through the wall. A nut at each end, cut the studding loff evel with the nut and then a gentle touch with an angle grinder to polish of any burrs.
 
At last, some sensible advice for the OP.
What sort of angle grinder do you use?

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