running lighting cable in plaster board ceiling unaccessible
- Thread starter covcjd
- Start date
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Yes my darling wife wanted the floor above (bathroom) tiled. 2 years later when she wants the kitchen replacing she mentioned she wants downlights in the ceiling that happens to be below the tiled bathroom floor.
Bite my lip or what?
Bite my lip or what?
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Can you get access to the void from under the floor of an upstairs room or landing adjoining the bathroom? i.e. joists running the right direction, no walls in the way?
If not - new ceiling.
Seriously - rip out the old one, do the stuff with the wiring, put up new plasterboard and get a plasterer in for cash-in-hand. Won't cost much compared to the overall cost of a new kitchen, and it'll be easier and a great deal quicker than fiddling about trying to do it via little access holes etc.
If not - new ceiling.
Seriously - rip out the old one, do the stuff with the wiring, put up new plasterboard and get a plasterer in for cash-in-hand. Won't cost much compared to the overall cost of a new kitchen, and it'll be easier and a great deal quicker than fiddling about trying to do it via little access holes etc.
The cable and flex connecting the cooker look to be in a dodgy position relative to the hob...
1) Choose a line across your ceiling where all the holes in the joists will go. From a structural point of view this is best done near their ends. From a decorative point of view pick a bit of ceiling you don't see every time you walk through the door. With a metal detector make sure there are no nails along the line. This will save you much gnashing of teeth later - and not just yours!
2) Carefully remove a long thin strip of plasterboard a bit wider than your drill. Try not to break it between joists. I wouldn't use a jig saw for this because you might just slice through a cable. You can use a hole cutting saw over the joists but save the disks to put back later.
3) Do the wiring.
4) Replace the missing plasterboard strip with as much of the original as you managed to get out in one piece. Make up any shortfall with new stuff.
5) Patch up any holes or narrow gaps with filler then paint it.
Job done.
2) Carefully remove a long thin strip of plasterboard a bit wider than your drill. Try not to break it between joists. I wouldn't use a jig saw for this because you might just slice through a cable. You can use a hole cutting saw over the joists but save the disks to put back later.
3) Do the wiring.
4) Replace the missing plasterboard strip with as much of the original as you managed to get out in one piece. Make up any shortfall with new stuff.
5) Patch up any holes or narrow gaps with filler then paint it.
Job done.
What was the big thick one that ran along the top of the tiles then dived down behind the cooker?lewy said:
Also - your floor. Do you plan to cover it up again, or restore the old quarry tiles? If the latter, any plans on how and with what? I guess this post is straying into Flooring Forum territory, but my kitchen has also got old vinyl/lino on top of what could, potentially, be a nice tiled floor, and I was thinking about uncovering it....
If you don't mind the look affix some mini trunking to the ceiling along one edge of the kitchen. Mini trunking size MT 3 this should give enough room.
In line with your lights and the right side of any joists drill a 20mm hole through the back of the trunking and ceiling, then you can feed a 1mm t&e cable with the end folded over into the ceiling void, with the lights isolated and removed make a suitable hole to insert a stiff wire with hook on the end to fish said cable.If this is a down light position the better for joining the cables together in a joint box or you could put back the ceiling rose minus the pendant.
Cut out your down light positions avoiding joists and batterns, you could use a stud detector for this or use a thin braddle and tap on ceiling to detect ,this method takes practice.
In line with your down light positions drill through trunking and ceiling
you can then fish the other end of cable tape on any further downlight position cables and repeat process.
When finished before affixing the lid to the mini trunking block the holes up using a suitable fire proof sealer
By the way you should install smoke hoods above downlights for fire safety, normally bought with light at wholesaler,
In line with your lights and the right side of any joists drill a 20mm hole through the back of the trunking and ceiling, then you can feed a 1mm t&e cable with the end folded over into the ceiling void, with the lights isolated and removed make a suitable hole to insert a stiff wire with hook on the end to fish said cable.If this is a down light position the better for joining the cables together in a joint box or you could put back the ceiling rose minus the pendant.
Cut out your down light positions avoiding joists and batterns, you could use a stud detector for this or use a thin braddle and tap on ceiling to detect ,this method takes practice.
In line with your down light positions drill through trunking and ceiling
you can then fish the other end of cable tape on any further downlight position cables and repeat process.
When finished before affixing the lid to the mini trunking block the holes up using a suitable fire proof sealer
By the way you should install smoke hoods above downlights for fire safety, normally bought with light at wholesaler,
But only when installing in insulation, not a voidtheshogun said:
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