ideal HE24 combi boiler - no power

If your going to be spending that amount of money on a fan and a pcb i would suggest u get ideal to do a fixed price repair! could save u a small fortune in the long run!
 
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hi guys,

got my mate round who is a gas reg plumber. He dont know much about electrics so i had him here with me whilst i had a look around the boiler.

any way, tested the ohms from the two outer wires on the fan and found it to be in between 100-150ohms (110 in fact) but also tested the voltage from the neutral to earth and found that to be 28V

so it looks like the fan is indeed suspect. anyone explain why the ohms readings would be within spec but the fan showing 28V on the neutral

also confirmed PCB dead by putting it in relatives boiler. no power there either.

so all in all guys, do u think im best ordering a fan and a PCB?? also would u order the V9 version PCB or stick to the old version
 
The 6v on neutral should be checked for at the mains coming into the boiler
 
hi guys, i tested the neutral and found no voltage between that and the earth.

i ordered a new pcb, i got the new v9 version hoping it will be better and more robust than the present one. it canme today and i installed it. the boiler powered up straight away but gave a error code L8 which is a problem with the fan

on inspection i found that when the boiler was trying to light, the fan would try to spin but would not. on closer ispection the blade in the fan stutters as if it want to go but wont. tried to see if i could see why but i couldnt find anything. the ohms reading is 110 so i dont know why it aint working. theer is 240 going to it and there is 14v across the pink and yellow connector.

so it looks like a new fan is needed. can someone just confirm this before i order a new one and get my plumber mate to fit it?? or is there something i can do to get it working

thanx
 
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If your going to be spending that amount of money on a fan and a pcb i would suggest u get ideal to do a fixed price repair! could save u a small fortune in the long run!

phoned them mate and they wanted £240.00 to do the repair.

i only paid £70 for the pcb, brand new and for the v9 version and 12 months guarantee, also the fan i will be buying is £50 so all in all ive saved myself £120 as i got free labour
 
no probs brother

fill your boots

but...............................

what if u fit a new fan, and it still goes to fault.............................

still got 4 cold kiddies.

what sortedplumbing was trying to say was...£240 warm kiddies

wether it was the pcb, pcb and fan, pcb and fan and tickly valve..........

but the saga continues i suppose

and how have you saved £120, your boiler still aint working.

read between the lines brother, cause you are now definetly gonna not call out somebody on a fixed price repair because you have initially outlayed £xxx
 
you gotta point mate but im all for saving money.

advice from here staight away pointed to pcb and fan so i knew it would at least cost me that.but i can almost guarantee that as soon as i put a new fan on, it will work

if i wanted i could always sell the parts again as im sure i would hardly lose anything cos i got them cheap. looked everywhere else for a pcb and they wanted 130+ so if anything ive made £40-50 straight away if i sell

pennies make pounds and pounds make rich people.
 
u payed £70 for your pcb

why do u think u will make a profit?

were the £130 ones from an official spares supplier?

can you prove your new pcb is not faulty?

and please this is not in any way a dig on you. i hope you get a resolution to the htg problem
 
i'd be very interested to know who is selling these boards at £70 because the suppliers round here want £150 - £212 for PCB or retro kit (pcb & control)
 
just to let u know guys that i got a new fan today and everything is working again.

thanx to everyone on here that helped out. This forum deserves an award.

im a very happy person at the minute having just saved myself £139.00 by doing it myself.
 
your making it sound like i have obtained this illegally.

do a search mate like i did. easily found
 
Everyone is quick to blame the board... You have put connections back the right way? Mains top left if board is folded up? Seen too many to count when this has happened after tinkering. User control stays blank, people keep throwing pcbs at it when it's wires in wrong socket.

Aye pcbs are **** but as said fan etc are guilty of taki g them out. As is having more than 6v on the neutral.

Icos HE boiler died today and I was about to order a new PCB assembly when I read the stuff about faulty fans blowing the PCB.

Have to say, I'm a bit skeptical about this. If an electrical fault with the fan was the culprit, wouldn't the PCB fuse go first? What's the point of fusing the board if not to protect it?

Any thoughts?
 

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