fitting a bath, woodwork or not...

Joined
27 Feb 2010
Messages
112
Reaction score
1
Location
West Lothian
Country
United Kingdom
quickie here guys - fitting a new p-shaped bath, tiles not done yet.

Floor is easy, as its cast concrete, so thats sorted.

every bath i have ever removed has had some form of wood work round the wall....my bath sits in an alcove avout 1780mm wide, so i have 3cm at each side as a gap. i'll fix a peice of cls timber to the wall, so that it can have a slice of tile put in, and sealed.

However, i wonder if i need a peice at the back of the bath, the 1700mm long section which will be sealed to the wall - is there any requirement for additional support ?
 
Sponsored Links
IMO Any detectable movement between a bath and wall is too much movement, so extra support along the wall edge of a bath never goes amiss if want the bath sealant to stay stuck to both the bath and the tiles. It's straightforward to install a batten for the edge of the bath to sit on during installation, but a right !%"£%&^"%! to do anything about afterwards.
 
Nice one. best to fix it directly to the plasterboard, then let the tiler tile up to it, or fix it to the tiles ( through the tiles ) afterwards ????

its a whirlpool bath.

I need to have a look and see if the bath comes with a slight tilt built in ( i mean the lip of the bath is level, but the floor is tilted to the drain), or if i need to fit it slightly off level. once i know that i can measure up for a batton.
 
It's normal for tiles to overlap the lip of the tub rather than butt the edge of the tub up to a tiled wall.

I would tile first, but omit the row of tiles immediately above the bath, fit the bath and then insert the last few tiles that overlap the edge of the tub. That avoids most of the leaning over the tub to work, and dropping tiles, adhesive, tools etc. into the tub, but it does split up the tiling work.

Others may prefer to install the tub, then tile the wall, taking measures to protect the tub from damage. That way the tiling gets done in one shot.

The top rim of a bathtub is normally set level. The fall to the waste is built into the bottom of the tub.
 
Sponsored Links
Don't whatever you do, fit the bath on a tilt. They are designed to be fitted with the top edge level all the way round.
As others have said, the bath needs to be fitted before the tiling is done. No need for a piece of timber at the edges nearest the walls (unless there's a gap at either end. Then only at either end.)
 
i'm not doing the tiling - its the one thing i'm happy to pay for.

i had just presumed that tiling the wall first would be better.....hence why i'm not a tiler. or indeed tiling with the bath removed, and simply tiling up to the woodwork i'll be putting in ???



so then, best to fit the bath first. plumbing it should be easy enough, some funny angles to overcome, with it being a p shaped bath, the waste is now offset, but i'll sort that.

so then, bath in level it up, mark on the wall where the lip is, measure the lip, cls all the way round ( there is a gap at each end), then bath in and call the tiler. i'm sure he'll protect the bath.
 
If there's a gap at either end then just put cls at either end. Don't put it on the long edge, where the bath meets the wall. ;) ;) ;)

I usually fit the bath taps and waste outlet before placing the bath into position. Easier then to tighten them up rather than faff about lying on your back trying to do it. ;) ;) ;)
 
hmm, when you day don't, do you mean don't because its not needed, or don't because it causes a problem ???

it'd be nice to KNOW its not going anywhere, but then again, if its not needed.......
 
after some thinking, i've decided to have the tiling done without the bath in place.

Reasons:

the bath panel can't be trimmed to size, so the bath needs to be at the right height, +/- 2mm.

in order to shim the bath to the right height, i'll need to make up blocks for it to sit on, equal to the thickness of the floor, +grout+tiles.

that'll mean lots of faffing about if the bath is in when the room is tiled, but it'll be way easier to do after the tiling is done, I'll just draw a line round the area where the bath will be, indicating the height of the bath, and allow the tiler to tile below it.
 
I never make up a gap to bath at one end or other with a level tile, asking for trouble with a leak, always move bath flush to shower end and then a step at least one tile high at the other end to ensure bath only abuts vertical surface.
Ideally false wall all the way up if room allows to leave bath tight between three walls.You mentioned plasterboard walls, not ideal for bath unless tanked, ideally an aqua panel or similar should line walls.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top