Why is plasterboard cut off like this (see image) ?

Hi

I did ask this question about a month ago, but now I
have an image showing my problem.

I need to plasterboard a ceiling. I can't skim over the old
artex because of a problem I have.

When you look at the image you'll see it is not flat,
I have 5 sheets of 'moisture resistant' View media item 27012 plasterboard
delivered from Wickes here that show the same design.

If I put these sheets up, it will mean I'll have to still fill in
the uneven side section - which defeats the whole point of
using the plasterboard.

I'm sure if I don't fill the 'indent' it will show once painted.

Does anyone know why these boards are finished like this?

Am I supposed to cut this section of before fitting?

The board that I have got from Wickes is tapered edge,
I thought that tapered edge was so you could push the
reinforcing tape down for a clean strong finish.

Is this cut off section actually the tapered edge?

Confused.

Thanks.

Stephen

They are standard taper edge boards specifically designed for tape & fill where reinforcing tape is stuck over the board joints & then filled out level with Easyfill & sandpaper; very time consuming & messy. Square edge boards (without the taper) are used where the whole ceiling/wall is being plastered, reinforcing tape is applied directly over the joints & then skimmed with finishing plaster; much better & quicker but not really DIY option so therefore more expensive.

You need to understand considerably more about using plasterboard, tape & fill & plastering. You can’t just fix boards up & then paint them you will see all the joints, it will look terrible & no amount of paint will hide the taper. Also be aware that you cannot plaster Moisture Resistant board without priming first.

Why do you say you can’t skim over the old Artex?

Whats the problem with the old ceiling that cant be stabilized and plasterd.

Id advise you to get somone in if youve never plasterboarded,tapped and filled before as as said before..it WILL look crap if not done correctly

Thanks for your help.

The penny has just dropped - the 'dip' as you say is so the filler becomes in line with the board.

What I meant by I cannot skim the ceiling;

I can't do it myself as I have a neck problem.

I think it might be eaiser to get a plaster in - weighing up the cost of boards and hassle this looks like the best bet.

Dry lining is fine but a plastered finish is 10 times better.

I'd spend the extra £50-60 first and get it bonded and skimmed.
At least you don't have the fear of it not taking to the old plaster if you have fresh boards on.

With the square edge board you have to tape and then feather over a much larger area to hide the joints.
If I were you I would put up the board with dry wall screws. Then tape and feather with Easy fill. Seal the easy fill and then just paint the whole lot!
Make sure the Easy fill has no edges ( ie very fine feathering) or this will show once the paint goes on.
The Gyproc site has a good "how to" section that is well worth a look.

Landcruzer said:

Seal the easy fill and then just paint the whole lot!

Click to expand...

You should seal the whole wall not just the Easyfill; http://www.british-gypsum.com/produ...gyproc_accessories/gyproc_drywall_sealer.aspx
if someone sticks wall paper on there you’ll never get it off without damaging the boards & a steam stripper or just water will turn the plaster board to mush.

Spend just a little extra & get it skimmed, it'll save you so much time & look 1000 times better.