Replaced immersion heater element, lost water pressure...

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Hi. I'm new here.

Yesterday I tried replacing the element in my immersion heater, as the handyman who normally does it (the element tends to burnt out every couple years), is having problems keeping appointments.

I followed instructions on the internet, and I thought I had completed the job successfully, but now the shower pump that powers hot water from the heater cuts out after about 2 seconds. I've undone the pipe that feeds into the shower pump and there's only a very weak trickle of water.

This is a 2 bed flat in a tower block. No central heating. A cold water tank (head height), feeds the immersion heater, and then a shower pump takes hot water to kitchen and bathroom.

I didn't drain the tank when replacing the element. I just removed the old element and caught about a pint of leaking water with a towel.

Is my problem an air pocket? If so, is there a trick to remove it? As I said, the handyman has done this procedure regularly without apparent difficulty.

Thanks for any tips.

Elliot
 
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poss an airlock.
have you checked the gate valve is fully open first on the feed to the cylinder ?
 
2 years doesn't sound long for an immersion element.

Make sure that if you have hard water you buy elements designed for this. They are a couple of pounds more expensive.
 
poss an airlock.
have you checked the gate valve is fully open first on the feed to the cylinder ?

Hmm, gate valve? Before replacing the element, I turned a red knob on the inlet pipe to the immersion heater. It only turns a quarter of a turn. I've now tried turning it one way and the other, but it seems to have no effect. (This plumbing is ancient).

Regarding the pump working for 2 seconds. I think the trickle of water coming out of the immersion gradually fills the outlet pipe, giving the pump about a pint of water to work on before it gives up.
 
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2 years doesn't sound long for an immersion element.

Make sure that if you have hard water you buy elements designed for this. They are a couple of pounds more expensive.

Ah, I didn't know you could get a hard water element. I guess using regular elements is good business for the handyman.
 
1/4 of a turn for a gate valve is not much they useally take half dozen turns to open/close one.
i would look in to the valve first if not change it.
 
yes thats called a gate valve.
i useally replace them with a full bore lever valve.
gate valves tend to seize or shear off inside.
 
Many thanks for your help. I think you've diagnosed the problem. I'll get a professional in to replace the gate valve.
 
that particular make of gate valve always bloody brakes off so replace with a Pegler gate valve or as said before a full bore lever valve
 

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