M
merlin50
just had another look at the photo and its not bomb proof, i have seen lots of ww2 shelters.
Dropping A Bomb Shelter
- Thread starter lfnfan
- Start date
Sponsored Links
it could still be a privately built one not made to government design.
round here a local builder made one for his family in 1940, he did not tie in the roof to the walls, and the roof moved and fell in on them when the ground rippled from a nearby bomb.
round here a local builder made one for his family in 1940, he did not tie in the roof to the walls, and the roof moved and fell in on them when the ground rippled from a nearby bomb.
so if it's not a proper full-on bomb shelter, how will that affect taking it down?
The bottom line is, I'm reluctant to part with 2 grand just for the sake of having someone else do the hard graft to take this structure down. On that basis I will happily do it myself...
...but if there's more than a remote chance that it could go wrong (see Deluks's "roof comes crashing down" line), I would rather leave it to the professionals. I don't want several tons of concrete falling on me, my house, or my neighbour's house. If you know what I mean.
Thanks as always
The bottom line is, I'm reluctant to part with 2 grand just for the sake of having someone else do the hard graft to take this structure down. On that basis I will happily do it myself...
...but if there's more than a remote chance that it could go wrong (see Deluks's "roof comes crashing down" line), I would rather leave it to the professionals. I don't want several tons of concrete falling on me, my house, or my neighbour's house. If you know what I mean.
Thanks as always
the concrete slab is going to be the hardest part.
You might be able to slice it into 1ft- beams and then chop each beam (the pieces would fall but if it is reinforced with mesh, the rest of it would probably stay so you could stand on it). But if reinforcement is poor, rusted or discontinuous it might fall while you are standing on, under or beside it, which would be very dangerous.
It will be a lot of hard work. If you can pay someone who has the skills and equipment to take the roof away, you could chip the walls out yourself (it will be hard, but not so dangerous, as most likely they will not collapse in on you). If you employ some unskilled labourers then you might end up having to dig their bodies out
I have seen hydraulic-powered wet diamond saws used for cutting into redundant shelters, and it still took a very long time.
These shelters are, by design, much harder to demolish than an ordinary brick building.
You might be able to slice it into 1ft- beams and then chop each beam (the pieces would fall but if it is reinforced with mesh, the rest of it would probably stay so you could stand on it). But if reinforcement is poor, rusted or discontinuous it might fall while you are standing on, under or beside it, which would be very dangerous.
It will be a lot of hard work. If you can pay someone who has the skills and equipment to take the roof away, you could chip the walls out yourself (it will be hard, but not so dangerous, as most likely they will not collapse in on you). If you employ some unskilled labourers then you might end up having to dig their bodies out
I have seen hydraulic-powered wet diamond saws used for cutting into redundant shelters, and it still took a very long time.
These shelters are, by design, much harder to demolish than an ordinary brick building.
Sponsored Links
We had a bomb shelter taken down late last year.
18" solid brick walls with a 5" thick solid concrete roof all tied together with iron bars. We had 2 quotes (£2,500 and £1,000) and elected for the cheaper one. The contractor had estimate 1 day and eventually took 3 (price remained the same).
He took all the rubbish away.
18" solid brick walls with a 5" thick solid concrete roof all tied together with iron bars. We had 2 quotes (£2,500 and £1,000) and elected for the cheaper one. The contractor had estimate 1 day and eventually took 3 (price remained the same).
He took all the rubbish away.
You guys like to work hard...
Mini digger with a pecker on, no need to sweat over it! £100-£300 for a day's hire all-in, turn the radio on and have some fun!
Contractors will over-quote for this sort of job because there could be hidden problems or reinforcement above and beyond, so the three grand quote doesn't surprise me.
Mini digger with a pecker on, no need to sweat over it! £100-£300 for a day's hire all-in, turn the radio on and have some fun!
Contractors will over-quote for this sort of job because there could be hidden problems or reinforcement above and beyond, so the three grand quote doesn't surprise me.
G
geraint
props at 900 centres all around..with ply above the props..
break the concrete roof...
clear away
remove props and break away the walls...
simple and safe..
break the concrete roof...
clear away
remove props and break away the walls...
simple and safe..
Be careful, it can go wrong..... http://www.thisisleicestershire.co....-COLLAPSE/article-3249976-detail/article.html
(Although I cannot believe they were stupid enough to stand under a concrete roof whilst knocking the supporting walls out.....)
Using a machine doesnt guarantee safety either. Rubber duck with a breaker fitted slowly chopping away at the roof of the former Nationwide Building Society in the local High Street when without warning the remainder collapsed. It fell forwards, demolishing the wooden hoarding at the front of the site onto the pavement, and bending a lamp column. By the grace of God no-one was on that section of pavement at the time else there would have been a fatality.....
(Although I cannot believe they were stupid enough to stand under a concrete roof whilst knocking the supporting walls out.....)
Using a machine doesnt guarantee safety either. Rubber duck with a breaker fitted slowly chopping away at the roof of the former Nationwide Building Society in the local High Street when without warning the remainder collapsed. It fell forwards, demolishing the wooden hoarding at the front of the site onto the pavement, and bending a lamp column. By the grace of God no-one was on that section of pavement at the time else there would have been a fatality.....
ooh more replies whilst I wasn't looking
jstallan, I would ask for the name of your guy, but I guess he will up his quote now, based on his experience with your shelter
hiring this kit will cost me about £640
8 yard skip (2 weeks).....200
concrete ringsaw (1wk)...250 ( http://www.hss.com/g/7156/Concrete-Ring-Saw.html ) looks a bit of a beast. don't fancy the concrete sagging and trapping the blade at full revs
breaker.........................100 ( http://www.hss.com/g/2151/Vibration-Damped-Breaker-110v.html )
platform, hat & boots......100
I was going to check my insurance this weekend, but life got in the way. Did find this tho http://www.thinkmoney.com/insurance/news/new-years-diy-ers-should-check-their-insurance-0-4173.htm I am also wondering about party wall agreement as the structure is slap dab next to the neighbour's flank wall.
digdilem - I would have to get the digger 'through' the garage first - tricky!
geraint - I half had this approach in mind to start with but wasn't sure if it would work. Guess this would be the safest way to enable me to work standing on the roof? How thick would you make the ply?
Hugh Jaleak - this is exactly what I am worried about!
jstallan, I would ask for the name of your guy, but I guess he will up his quote now, based on his experience with your shelter
hiring this kit will cost me about £640
8 yard skip (2 weeks).....200
concrete ringsaw (1wk)...250 ( http://www.hss.com/g/7156/Concrete-Ring-Saw.html ) looks a bit of a beast. don't fancy the concrete sagging and trapping the blade at full revs
breaker.........................100 ( http://www.hss.com/g/2151/Vibration-Damped-Breaker-110v.html )
platform, hat & boots......100
I was going to check my insurance this weekend, but life got in the way. Did find this tho http://www.thinkmoney.com/insurance/news/new-years-diy-ers-should-check-their-insurance-0-4173.htm I am also wondering about party wall agreement as the structure is slap dab next to the neighbour's flank wall.
digdilem - I would have to get the digger 'through' the garage first - tricky!
geraint - I half had this approach in mind to start with but wasn't sure if it would work. Guess this would be the safest way to enable me to work standing on the roof? How thick would you make the ply?
Hugh Jaleak - this is exactly what I am worried about!
You're looking at well over £1000 now, assuming all waste goes in one skip, if not then chuck another £200-400 in. Thats without any insurance! You're dealing with a lot of unknown quantities with how its built/attached to your house/next to neighbours etc.
I'd seriously reconsider a DIY attempt, what price your safety? The pro's are insured should something go wrong, what might appear a quick saving could cost you a lot more if it did go belly up.
The boiler also gives me cause for concern, the black staining on the walls around it may indicate a serious problem. Advise getting it checked by a Gassafe engineer asap.
I'd seriously reconsider a DIY attempt, what price your safety? The pro's are insured should something go wrong, what might appear a quick saving could cost you a lot more if it did go belly up.
The boiler also gives me cause for concern, the black staining on the walls around it may indicate a serious problem. Advise getting it checked by a Gassafe engineer asap.
mmm. I don't need much encouraging to err on the side of caution on this job. Probably more than I can comfortably achieve, even now I have some options on how to tackle the job. The missus is certainly keen for me to leave it to the experts.
We've had a Gas Safe plumber check over the boiler. The black scorch marks match up with where the pipes have been joined around the back of the unit. We've also had a CO monitor in the utility periodically, not indicating any CO present. Not sure if that covers what you are concerned about?
We've had a Gas Safe plumber check over the boiler. The black scorch marks match up with where the pipes have been joined around the back of the unit. We've also had a CO monitor in the utility periodically, not indicating any CO present. Not sure if that covers what you are concerned about?
Black marks can indicate a problem with CO escaping, but if its been checked by a Gassafe engineer it should be ok to use. At least its in the utility room as opposed to the house, by their nature the open flued appliances are more risky.
Best of luck with the job, whichever way you decide to tackle it.
Best of luck with the job, whichever way you decide to tackle it.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
