Boilermate 2000 system problem.

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Hi there. Newbie here I'm afraid.

I have a problem with my Boilermate 2000 system which also comprises a Suprima 50 wall mounted boiler. Very loud banging noises come from the boiler after a short while running. This is just a recent development and is most alarming when it happens. Boiler shuts down and after short while resets and the cycle continues.
I suspected the Grunfos HW pump at first and was suspicious of the fact that the measured ac voltage at the pump (and the PCB header connector) was only reading 130 - 150 v.ac. however if the header was removed when the HW circuit was energised the voltage at the pcb, (with the connector unplugged) read 240v.
Repeating this test at various times I noticed the voltage varies quite a lot, sometimes negligible but usually very low.
I was advised to replace the pump head but having now just replaced the pump head I discover that the problem has not been solved and the voltages are still as varied as before.

Does anyone know if this a normal situation regarding the pump voltage in a live situation.

Is my problem back at the boiler itself, I have reduced the thermostat to a mid-setting but the stiuation remains even with the lowest setting selected.
 
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common fault with the 2000 is the pcb sending power to the boiler and not the pump intermittently with the inevitable result. Pcbs are rubbish and expensive.
 
check the voltage of the boiler pump (the one on the left hand side) you have checked the voltage on the plate heat ex pump that changes with the demand for hot water.
 
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Hi and thanks to all who replied to my post.....
Been away from the dreaded Boilermate for a few hours now so I will update you all with my responses.

The pump that I changed (actually the head only as the Plumbers merchant swore that the Ideal brand part was interchangeable with the Grunfos 15/50-X18).... was the RH unit, the DHW pump.
I have now spoken to Gledhill response team and been told that the variable voltage is perfectly normal as it varies with the temperature of the water being called/pumped so this should not be the source of the problem!!!. I can swap back the Grunfos 15/50-XS head I guess as I have not fixed the problem, but sadly will have to swallow the cost.

Advice was to check the Boiler pump (LH of the 3 pumps) as the problem ought to originate there !!. Advisor asked me to check that boiler pump was still moving water and not a stuck unit, sludged up or a sheared impeller.
I have checked that I can see the boiler pump shaft is indeed spinning without problems when called upon, runs very smoothly. The voltage here is also ok a healthy 240vac. Havent removed pump to check impeller but can hear the sloshing of water and feel the vibration when running.

I have also checked the free running of the pump shaft on the CH pump, the middle pump of the 3 and this also is ok, voltage when called into operation is 240vac.
I hope the problem is not the dreaded control PCB due to the cost. Is there any other checks I can carry out before heading down that road. Very expensive to purchase and still not be sure that this would give me the fix..
 
The pump that I changed (actually the head only as the Plumbers merchant swore that the Ideal brand part was interchangeable with the Grunfos 15/50-X18).... was the RH unit, the DHW pump.
You have changed the wrong pump. :rolleyes:

I have now spoken to Gledhill response team and been told that the variable voltage is perfectly normal as it varies with the temperature of the water being called/pumped so this should not be the source of the problem!!!.

Quite true, but that is not your problem is it?

I can swap back the Grunfos 15/50-XS head I guess as I have not fixed the problem, but sadly will have to swallow the cost.

Advice was to check the Boiler pump (LH of the 3 pumps) as the problem ought to originate there !!.
I did ask if you had changed the left pump.

If you had changed the left pump on the bank of 3 you may have had it fixed by now - but you seem to have further problems.

Advisor asked me to check that boiler pump was still moving water and not a stuck unit, sludged up or a sheared impeller.
I have checked that I can see the boiler pump shaft is indeed spinning without problems when called upon, runs very smoothly. The voltage here is also ok a healthy 240vac. Havent removed pump to check impeller but can hear the sloshing of water and feel the vibration when running.

You have a pump issue (as I said many posts ago) and possibly a blocked cold feed. Change that pump (you have a spare head) and post your results if your able.

Mr. W.
 
You have a pump issue (as I said many posts ago) and possibly a blocked cold feed.

Mr. W.

just as likely a faulty pcb. Worked on hundreds of these and always the same fault on pcb, power to boiler but not pump. Often can be caused by external influence as the pcb doesnt protect itself from the boiler. So if the boiler pcb blows it will quite often take out the BM pcb as well. Total piece of turd.
 
The OP said the LH pump was working, which led me to to the fact that the impellor had sheared - hence my advise was to replace it with the spare head that he decided to put on the h/w pump.

If that fails, then I concur with you Micky, just a cheaper option as the OP is doing the work him/herself.

Mr. W.
 
Hi misterdubya many thanks for your quick response.

Sorry I did not see your reply earlier, your comment regarding me swapping the wrong pump head would appear to be dead right. I consulted a plumber originally who directed me to do so after I observed the lower mains voltage at the DHW pump, so he was thinking this was the problem pump too.
I should have posted my original question yesterday it appears and could have saved myself some work here.
Anyway I will return the original Grunfos pump head to its original body and try the "Ideal" branded head to the boiler pump on LHS of the arrangement. and report the result.
Is it simple to confirm a blocked cold feed as you also suggested.
 
The OP said the LH pump was working, which led me to to the fact that the impellor had sheared - hence my advise was to replace it with the spare head that he decided to put on the h/w pump.

If that fails, then I concur with you Micky, just a cheaper option as the OP is doing the work him/herself.

Mr. W.

ok yeh sorry i just breezed over it and assumed he'd swapped the correct pump.
 
Turn off all power to the boilermate.

Note position of the jumpers on the board. Remove jumpers. Place one jumper in position 5.

Turn power back on.

Boilermate will do some simple diagnostics and will spin each pump in turn, starting with the left hand pump.

Check each pump spins and report back.

Turn off all power again and replace jumpers to original positions.
 
Daft question here..... Asuming the pump and its impeller is ok and running when it should... Have you checked to see if the cylinder itself is full? I have come across these where the cylinder has been drained but the supply pipe from the F&E tank has been blocked.... Just a thought.
 
I have suffered many Boilermate 2000 problems and this forum has been very helpful. Recently, I got rid of the Boilermate 2000 and replaced with an unvented system, fitted by MickyG and so far I am delighted with the results.

Not sure on the rules of advertising, so please delete if required

Hopefully the PCB is not at fault, but I have a 2 month old PCB removed from my Boilermate 2000 last month that I am about to list on a well know aution website. It was fitted under British Gas Homecare, by an engineer who changed it as all else failed (it did not help either!)

PM me if you are interested.
 

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