worcester combi 24cdi

...Pressure still shows at 2 but he says thats acceptable.

Garbage :rolleyes: Put the heating on full blast and watch the gauge. As it climbs towards 3 Bar the safety valve will open. Pressure should be 1 Bar with a cold system. Call them back.

hardly the end of the world. if it doesn't rise far then it's not a problem.
 
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Would either of you be so kind to enlighten me as to what goes so horribly wrong with these?

it's not so much what goes wrong with them, it's how long it takes to fix it. isolation valves, expansion vessels (assuming you cant cap it and fit remote) and diaphragm/diverter are all a chronic waste of good time to replace.

the plastic manifolds crack or strip their thread, mostly when you really really really don't want them to. even the prv can be an arse if it's too close to the side of the boiler.

to cap it all off (if only they were all capped off) worcester then complicated matters further by making a band B version and stuffing even more crap in there, thank christ almost no one bought one. :LOL:
 
Band b version??? Never seen one.
As for good boiler, I was only talking from customer's point of view. They don't care if you loose 5 square inches of skin from you knuckles because it's a pig to repair.
 
long repairs generally mean bigger bills. I don't see the cdi as a particularly reliable boiler either.
 
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i used to hate working on worcester cdi,s but theyre easy to fault find on
i dont think i have ever changed a div valve without cutting my hands to bits .i can fit them in under an hour now but my first one took me about half a shift and i was tearing my hair out.the fascia panel always breaks when you open it to work on it ,ive had quite a few seized fans also and a few flame rectification faults (usually pcbs) but i once had to change the main wiring harness to repair this fault
 
i used to hate working on worcester cdi,s but theyre easy to fault find on
i dont think i have ever changed a div valve without cutting my hands to bits .i can fit them in under an hour now but my first one took me about half a shift and i was tearing my hair out.the fascia panel always breaks when you open it to work on it ,ive had quite a few seized fans also and a few flame rectification faults (usually pcbs) but i once had to change the main wiring harness to repair this fault

put the pcb housing in the lower position, that puts less strain on the plastic bits. downside is it puts the cable entry holes right under the PHE connections.
 
Following Brit Gas visit on Wednesday when they apparently fitted new diaphragm /stat /pump/seals, I notice that the pressure clock has gone off the scale and is above 4. The hot water is working though.
Any idea what has happened ? (I originally called them in cos I was worried it had gone up to 2 and wasn't firing until medium flow. )
I'm also a bit niggled that he took the big white pressure key with him when he left on Wed !
 
Could it be the heat exchanger ? The hot water is still working fine but the pressure is to its max (above 4)
 
OK, now you need to phone them back. expansion vessel is probably burst or flat.

taking the loop key is a big no no....they are buttons to order on the laptop and there is no excuse for that.
 
You now have 2 reasons to get them back.
1. Finish the job.
2 Give you another filling key
 
Yes I will, thanks. I forgot to mention on my last 'post' that the pipe outside the house is dripping.
My tenant hadn't noticed because, as far as she was concerned, the boiler is working fine. It was just by luck that I had to visit the house this afternoon and saw the high pressure level
 
Brit Gas called again. Say it is the heat exchanger plate cracked. Found the loop key inside boiler! I was wondering whether the fitting of the new diaphragm the other day may have finished off the HE. Another day before a fix , I hope !
 
Forgot to ask. How long does it take to fit a new Heat Exchange plate and new pressure valve ?
 

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