just read through this, sounds like the motor in valve is shagged, whatever the fault it is not £500 worth.
Plumber telling me porkies? Drayton ZA5 dud needs full drain
- Thread starter jdamnation
- Start date
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Is this a forum for DIY questions or an Agile advertising and work touting site
E
expertgasman
You're kidding wait 'til you see a load of single connector blocks squeezed into a single deep patress box 
Even worse, when the box is behind the programmer.
Even worse, when the box is behind the programmer.
N
namsag
looks like its wired up wrong aswell as the two grey wires are in seperate terminals these are usually in the same terminal
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must agree w/c does look bit of a dogs dinner
G
gasafengineer
Why anyone use these valves over the honeywell is beyond me , not only are these carp but the ports are no bigger than 15mm , i usually rip these out & fit a complete valve , i'm gonna bet the OP will be back on here within 6 months with the same issue. ................replace the complete valve & be done , 30 min max.
Swap grey wire from terminal 5 to terminal 1.
................replace the complete valve & be done , 30 min max.Swap grey wire from terminal 5 to terminal 1.
Hello namsag where u bin in ur holiday villa lol!
Why anyone use these valves over the honeywell is beyond me , not only are these carp but the ports are no bigger than 15mm , i usually rip these out & fit a complete valve , i'm gonna bet the OP will be back on here within 6 months with the same issue.
Swap grey wire from terminal 5 to terminal 1.
they aren't that bad, i used 2 of these valves on my own sys! they were freebies
but i ant had a prob with um
N
namsag
Bunny. Yeah had to use the Monaco one as the Florida one is being refurbished
I know this is an old thread but I have just used the information from it to diagnose why my central heating was staying on.
My problem was that my central heating actuator had packed in so I replaced it with a new like for like swap (Drayton ZA5). The valve was a difficult to move behind the actuator so I put some WD40 on it and its nice and loose now. I think that contributed to the first actuator failing. It was 8 years old so it had done well. Plus the airing cupboard its in regularly is hot with damp clothes drying in it.
To note, it cost me £45 (including valve that I didn't need) from Wickes.
I am an average level DIYer, so it took me about 30-40 mins to wire the new one in (as the wiring box it connect to is a busy area)
NB. Thanks in particular nickso for fix suggestions and jdamnation for raising the issue.
My problem was that my central heating actuator had packed in so I replaced it with a new like for like swap (Drayton ZA5). The valve was a difficult to move behind the actuator so I put some WD40 on it and its nice and loose now. I think that contributed to the first actuator failing. It was 8 years old so it had done well. Plus the airing cupboard its in regularly is hot with damp clothes drying in it.
To note, it cost me £45 (including valve that I didn't need) from Wickes.
I am an average level DIYer, so it took me about 30-40 mins to wire the new one in (as the wiring box it connect to is a busy area)
NB. Thanks in particular nickso for fix suggestions and jdamnation for raising the issue.
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