SWA through wall

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There is no ceiling access where our CU is, its a bungalow so can't be accessed from above, need to install new cable for shower (and possibly a submain at a later date, (shower cable first, run submain cable along side it later)), a feasable way of doing this would be 10mm² SWA starting from the opposite side of the wall from the cu, down under the window, along and up and through the soffit into where there is loft access, and from there its straight forward.

So I've got 10mm² on the opposite side of the wall from the cu, how do I connect? I thought gland it with a CW type gland into an adapatble box, end the outer sheath and metal amour there, pass the cores, and the jacket that surrounds the cores though the wall (so its still D.I.) , along with an earth to the armour, and into the cu through the back of it

talking of the cu, that could probably do with replaceing, its a hagar split load unit, but its getting a bit long in the tooth and haveing all outlets etc on one rcd is frankly annoying, rcbos would be better, luckily there is an isolator in the tails. The tails however can't be replaced, being plastered into the wall behind the kitchen units, the problem comes from the fact that the current CU has the incommer on the right hand side, but the MK sentry CUs, which would probably be what I would use if I replaced it, have the incommer on the left hand side, so the tails would not reach, only way I can see around it is to extend them using Henley blocks in an adaptable box, but this means a box on the wall, anyone get any better ideas, if I swapped the isolator to the other end, then the letters marking polarity would be wrong, so I'm guessing this can't be done, unless isolators designed for the other side are available, anyone got any ideas?

My test equipment is currently limited to a multimeter, but I'm hopeing to start on an electrical installation apprenticeship next year, and when I've got my route into the industry secured, I'm quite happy to start collecting test equipment, at the bare minimum I'd like to have a IR/low ohms tester before doing this work, don't think earth loop tester would be absolutly neccessary, could use the max stated Ze for TNC-S (which is what the supply is) along with resistance readings, would be best to have a RCD tester though, even though the RCDs will be new

What would be the implications of ignoring part poo for this?, I'm sure I'd be making it safer as current shower is 8.5kw on 6mm cable bundled in a tight space... finally reading what I have written, please tell me honesty whether you would consider me upto this job, I think I'm able to do it, but I also realise thats its possible to not know just how much you don't know if that makes sense?

Thanks for taking the time to read this long post, I won't be able to reply until tommorow, I'm planning on going out with the intention of consuming alcohol tonight :D
 
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so it doesn't matter that the N and L lengends will be the wrong way round on isolator?, i just get the impression that its cowboy ish..?

also planning on using the split load kit (if i actually do anything), for things like the old shower (before its ripped out and replaced with pumped tank fed one), outdside lights, garage (at least until it gets local RCD protection) would use of the rcd split kit affect ability to 'mirror' the board?

will get pics tommorrow, when people won't be interferring asking what i'm doing etc.

Just to add background, I'm an 18 y/o who has just findihed school takes a strong interest in electrics and enjoys learning about them, and is trying to get an apprenticeship atm, I have a dad who doesn't realise how much he doesn't know about electrics and sometimes bodges stuff, I also have a brother who pokes his nose into electrics, oh and the house was wired by the previous owner who has done a few bodges.
 
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I wish you luck - apprenticeships from what I hear are hard to come by. The big companies are always recruiting, though, I guess.
 
at the end of the day an incomer is just a big isolating switch, its not going to cause any problems if the terminal labeled N is used for live and it should be pretty obvious whats been done to anyone opening the CU.

the other option is to break the meter terminal seals and fit new tails to reach the new CU. I haven't heared of anyone getting into trouble for this and they would have a basically impossible time proving who did it anyway.
 
split load doesn't have an effect. i think for this reason mk isolator terminals arn't labeled! I've got two MK CUs in my house both build in opposite ways, i wouldn't call the wiring of the CU cowboyish!

What are you doing in terms of part p?
 
@Ban, thanks for the words of luck, it is proving rather difficult

@Plug, the issue isn't seals, the outgoing side of the dno's isolator switch isn't sealed for the reason of allowing tails to be changed without cutting seals, the problem is that the tails are plastered into the wall which has tiles and cupboards on it

@Chris, maybe the design has changed, the mk isolators on mk are marked L and N:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Images/Products/size_3/MK5500.JPG

not really sure about part p, might send an annoymous email to building control to "test the water" find out what their procedures are, hopefully it'll be a reasonable fee and then they get an electriciain on their staff to conduct a PIR(or similar) on the new work
 
Adam_151 said:
@Ban, thanks for the words of luck, it is proving rather difficult
Have you tried SEC (Southern Electric Contracting)?

@Plug, the issue isn't seals, the outgoing side of the dno's isolator switch isn't sealed for the reason of allowing tails to be changed without cutting seals, the problem is that the tails are plastered into the wall which has tiles and cupboards on it
I hope to god they conform to the rules on buried cables...

@Chris, maybe the design has changed, the mk isolators on mk are marked L and N:
Relabel it if you're worried.

not really sure about part p, might send an annoymous email to building control to "test the water" find out what their procedures are, hopefully it'll be a reasonable fee and then they get an electriciain on their staff to conduct a PIR(or similar) on the new work
Their website will list their charges.
 
ban-all-sheds said:
Have you tried SEC (Southern Electric Contracting)?

Nope, not sure if they opperate around these parts (east mids)?

I hope to god they conform to the rules on buried cables...
They do, they run vertically downward from the cu, before going through the wall to the meter, its not ideal, but its what is there, and and it is in prescribed zones

Relabel it if you're worried.
Yeah, I just wondered, considering the labels, that it was not intended to be used like this, and if used like this would be no longer CE marked, or am i barking up the wrong tree?

Their website will list their charges.

Will take a look

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

There are two routes available to applicants to ensure they comply with Part P:-

1. Use an electrician/installer who is registered with a Competent Person's scheme, in which case a building regulation application will not be required for the electrical work..We would strongly encourage the use of electricians/installers who are part of a Competent Person Scheme.

2. Submit a Building Regulation application to the Local Authority:

A. Where an electrician registered with a recognised trade body such as NICEIC, ECA & NAPIT (who need not be registered under a competent persons scheme) tests the work and issues a design, installation and test certificate under BS7671. Building Control will accept the certificate as evidence that the work complies with Part P. Additional inspections by Building Control may also be carried out in conjunction with the acceptance of a certificate (a list of those electricians competent to inspect and test will be available on the internet at labc-services.co.uk).

B. Where the work is carried out by an unregistered electrician or is a DIY installation, the applicant is required to have the work inspected and tested by a registered electrician as in A. above.

and £75+vat,

reading your part p article:

re a: I thought they couldn't discriminate against who they accepted a certificate from, I thought the only thing was that they were 'competant' which has no legal definition?

re b: I thought it would be upto them to have it tested, not me?

aaarrrghhh, I do hate all this

________________________
moderator

please note 10a which is here
 
There are two routes available to applicants to ensure they comply with Part P:-

1. Use an electrician/installer who is registered with a Competent Person's scheme, in which case a building regulation application will not be required for the electrical work..We would strongly encourage the use of electricians/installers who are part of a Competent Person Scheme.
I'm sure they would.

2. Submit a Building Regulation application to the Local Authority:

A. Where an electrician registered with a recognised trade body such as NICEIC, ECA & NAPIT (who need not be registered under a competent persons scheme) tests the work and issues a design, installation and test certificate under BS7671. Building Control will accept the certificate as evidence that the work complies with Part P. Additional inspections by Building Control may also be carried out in conjunction with the acceptance of a certificate (a list of those electricians competent to inspect and test will be available on the internet at labc-services.co.uk).
That's fine - they are perfectly entitled to do that if they want.

B. Where the work is carried out by an unregistered electrician or is a DIY installation, the applicant is required to have the work inspected and tested by a registered electrician as in A. above.
That is not fine - you need to push back so hard that their eyes bleed.

and £75+vat,
Reasonable compared to some LABCs

re a: I thought they couldn't discriminate against who they accepted a certificate from, I thought the only thing was that they were 'competant' which has no legal definition?
There is no legal basis on which they have to accept a certificate from a 3rd party. Therefore if they choose to accept one, they can impose any definition they like as to who they regard as competent.

re b: I thought it would be upto them to have it tested, not me?
Yes - them or someone they engage at their expense and at no extra cost to you. LABC services and the ODPM are quite clear on this. You need to push back so hard that their eyes bleed.
 
Thanks ban, I'll send an email which implies that I know what they can and can't do, and gives the impression I won't have the wool pulled over my eyes, if I can manage this, then all is well, if not :evil:

Maybe I shouldn't be worried about this, its not really upto me, I live at home with parents, should just let my dad stick another 8.5kw shower in, use the 6mm²/32A circuit from the old bathroom that is having the electric shower removed, without tests, and without a glance at part p.

This is a fault I have, I worry about things that arn't really my concern :rolleyes:
 

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