ford mondeo r reg rear brake shoes
- Thread starter sr72
- Start date
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The drums are bound to be hard to remove. You'll need to spend ages pounding them with a lump hammer.
The wheel cylinders are also likely to be leaking, and their bolts are almost guaranteed to be seized. They're awkward to reach, so you'll have to hack them off with a cold chisel.
Take a digi camera pic before you remove the shoes, to make sure you put the new ones on the same way.
The wheel cylinders are also likely to be leaking, and their bolts are almost guaranteed to be seized. They're awkward to reach, so you'll have to hack them off with a cold chisel.
Take a digi camera pic before you remove the shoes, to make sure you put the new ones on the same way.
A pretty easy job, say 2 hours if youve never done it before.
A few tools that will come in handy will be a couple of decent prybars to lever off the drum or even better a puller, but not really worh buying one unless you plan to do it again.
Also a pair of vise grips or mole grips come in handy for replacing the springs.
A can of brake cleaner will come in handy to...for cleaning the area.
A few tools that will come in handy will be a couple of decent prybars to lever off the drum or even better a puller, but not really worh buying one unless you plan to do it again.
Also a pair of vise grips or mole grips come in handy for replacing the springs.
A can of brake cleaner will come in handy to...for cleaning the area.
Hitachimad is correct it's not a long job. I advise that you don't need to attack the brake drum with a lump hammer, a little bit of finesse works best, also less chance of damaging the drum. The lump hammer should be used to smash bricks and rocks and not brake drums. The bolt that secures the wheel cylinder should come out easily will a good socket, using a cold chisel will only damage the brake back plate.
regards johnwr
regards johnwr
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thanks guys for your advice.i am just a bit weary bout them here springs and getting it wrong 
just trying to save a bit of money in the long run as regarding taking it to a garage. how can i tell if the drums need replacing,obviously if they look visibly knacked then they need replacing but is there anything i should be looking out for, thanks
just trying to save a bit of money in the long run as regarding taking it to a garage. how can i tell if the drums need replacing,obviously if they look visibly knacked then they need replacing but is there anything i should be looking out for, thanksThe only reason that you may need to change the drums is excessive wear and damage, just look and see. Some wear is acceptable, if the lip on the edge of the drum is not too great , this can be removed. It all rests on how many miles the car has covered, there is likely to be more wear on older cars, if in dought replace then.
regards johnwr
regards johnwr
johnwr said:
That is utter tosh. Johnwr obviously hasn't changed many Mondeo rear drums. Any Mondeo with drums makes it a certain age, and they WILL have seized parts. They will need force to remove, and a cold chisel will NOT damage the back plate if used correctly. It's not designed for filing your nails.
DRW
I am glad that you are not repairing my car. Do you know what brake drums are made of!!!.For your information they are made of cast iron, any one will tell that cast iron is a brittle material and will not stand being knocked about with a lump hammer. I suggest you use your lump hammer for the purpose it was designed for. I though this forum was to help people to do a safe job and not put there live in danger. I hate to think what would happen if the brake drum broke during heavy braking on a motorway.
regards johnwr
ps I have worked in the motor trade for 40 years and in that time I was a senior road test technician for a major brake lining manufacturer.
I am glad that you are not repairing my car. Do you know what brake drums are made of!!!.For your information they are made of cast iron, any one will tell that cast iron is a brittle material and will not stand being knocked about with a lump hammer. I suggest you use your lump hammer for the purpose it was designed for. I though this forum was to help people to do a safe job and not put there live in danger. I hate to think what would happen if the brake drum broke during heavy braking on a motorway.
regards johnwr
ps I have worked in the motor trade for 40 years and in that time I was a senior road test technician for a major brake lining manufacturer.
DRW said:johnwr said:
That is utter tosh. Johnwr obviously hasn't changed many Mondeo rear drums. Any Mondeo with drums makes it a certain age, and they WILL have seized parts. They will need force to remove, and a cold chisel will NOT damage the back plate if used correctly. It's not designed for filing your nails.
Im with you John...!
How would beating the drum with a big hammer help get the lip past the shoe?
And surely its easier to undo the 2 bolts on the wheel cylinder with a spanner, and if they are seized they will just shear off anyway wont they.
The drums can be a right pain to get off but as already stated on here its just a case of a knock with a hyde mallet around the outside of the drum top side to side top to bottom. Obviously with the hand brake off! this may take some time to do but eventually the drums will budge.
Now most likely you are going to find that the wheel cylinders may need replacing so once the drum is off make sure that you check both sides of each wheel cylinder both O/S and N/S. If you detect any fluid either around the rubber boot then replace the wheel cylinder.In fact i would replace them anyway as you might end up coming back to this again after fitting a brand new pair of shoes i mean if your luck is as bad as mine i will guarantee that once your new shoes are in and everything is back on you will end up with a wheel cylinder leaking and if any brake fluid contacts the lining of your new shoes then it is going to be another set again.Check the picture of the leaky wheel cylinder.
My advice to you is to make sure that before removing the old shoes you make a note of the direction and placement of all springs and clips. The best way of doing this is either draw a note where all springs are located and where they locate, Or take a picture if you have a digital camera so you have something to refer to. Another good idea is to make sure that you have both rear wheels with the drums removed so that if you have a problem where that spring was located you have another side to refer to.The hand brake ratchet you will almost certainly find seized so once this is off make sure you free it up say with WD40 and then smear a small point of copper slip around the moving parts but take care not to get any of this onto the lining of your new shoes. The handbrake mech is supposed to be self adjusting i will refer to this in a minute. The wheel cylinder ok make sure that you clean around the brake pipe which goes in through the back of the cylinder. Now spray lots of WD40 around the union and give it another good clean, spray it with more WD40. Now this is the important bit make sure you have the correct spanner size i think mine was a 10mm not sure now. But you only get one stab at this so do this slowly make sure the spanner is tightly over the union. Once this starts to undo don't continue turning spray some more wd40 and keep doing this until the union is all the way out. Do not bend the pipe.OK once out the way now undo the two bolts which secure the cylinder to the plate once out remove and refit your new cylinder take care not to cross thread the brake pipe union. Do not do the bolts up on the cylinder until your brake pipe is in place also while your drums are off as well as your wheel cylinder removed do not depress the footbrake!
Before refitting the drum make sure you remove the ridge on the outer part of the inner drum, Now take a flat blade screw driver and adjust the hand brake mech until you can just about get the drum on once on check that it is not so tight you cannot turn the wheel. OK once done go into the car and gently pull the hand brake on a number of times to adjust the brakes further. Go back and check both wheels to make sure they are locked with the hand brake on. Now let the hand brake off and check both wheels again that you cannot turn the drums, go back let the hand brake off and recheck again.
All that done now its time for bleeding, Lift the bonnet get plenty of rag and put around the brake fluid reservoir, now remove the top. Get your self a clean jar and fill it half full with brake fluid or just enough so that the pipe you will use sits beneath the fluid or fail that purchase a self bleed pipe.
OK get someone to sit in the car go to the furthest wheel from your master cylinder if in the UK then its your passenger rear. undo the bleed nipple put the pipe over the nipple make sure its tight fit now get the person to depress the foot pedal you will get a lot of fluid spurt into your jar now do the nipple up while the footbrake is down. let foot pedal up and check the reservoir if needed top up but do not use the bled fluid you have in your jar!. OK go back to the same wheel and do this again, once complete do the union up tight not over tight otherwise you will snap the nipple off and then you will be in serious trouble.
Now repeat this process on the drivers side rear of vehicle. Once that is done check your brake pedal. The car is now ready for a road test once everything has been put back on!! Check me pictures hope this long thread helps somebody.
Now most likely you are going to find that the wheel cylinders may need replacing so once the drum is off make sure that you check both sides of each wheel cylinder both O/S and N/S. If you detect any fluid either around the rubber boot then replace the wheel cylinder.In fact i would replace them anyway as you might end up coming back to this again after fitting a brand new pair of shoes i mean if your luck is as bad as mine i will guarantee that once your new shoes are in and everything is back on you will end up with a wheel cylinder leaking and if any brake fluid contacts the lining of your new shoes then it is going to be another set again.Check the picture of the leaky wheel cylinder.
My advice to you is to make sure that before removing the old shoes you make a note of the direction and placement of all springs and clips. The best way of doing this is either draw a note where all springs are located and where they locate, Or take a picture if you have a digital camera so you have something to refer to. Another good idea is to make sure that you have both rear wheels with the drums removed so that if you have a problem where that spring was located you have another side to refer to.The hand brake ratchet you will almost certainly find seized so once this is off make sure you free it up say with WD40 and then smear a small point of copper slip around the moving parts but take care not to get any of this onto the lining of your new shoes. The handbrake mech is supposed to be self adjusting i will refer to this in a minute. The wheel cylinder ok make sure that you clean around the brake pipe which goes in through the back of the cylinder. Now spray lots of WD40 around the union and give it another good clean, spray it with more WD40. Now this is the important bit make sure you have the correct spanner size i think mine was a 10mm not sure now. But you only get one stab at this so do this slowly make sure the spanner is tightly over the union. Once this starts to undo don't continue turning spray some more wd40 and keep doing this until the union is all the way out. Do not bend the pipe.OK once out the way now undo the two bolts which secure the cylinder to the plate once out remove and refit your new cylinder take care not to cross thread the brake pipe union. Do not do the bolts up on the cylinder until your brake pipe is in place also while your drums are off as well as your wheel cylinder removed do not depress the footbrake!
Before refitting the drum make sure you remove the ridge on the outer part of the inner drum, Now take a flat blade screw driver and adjust the hand brake mech until you can just about get the drum on once on check that it is not so tight you cannot turn the wheel. OK once done go into the car and gently pull the hand brake on a number of times to adjust the brakes further. Go back and check both wheels to make sure they are locked with the hand brake on. Now let the hand brake off and check both wheels again that you cannot turn the drums, go back let the hand brake off and recheck again.
All that done now its time for bleeding, Lift the bonnet get plenty of rag and put around the brake fluid reservoir, now remove the top. Get your self a clean jar and fill it half full with brake fluid or just enough so that the pipe you will use sits beneath the fluid or fail that purchase a self bleed pipe.
OK get someone to sit in the car go to the furthest wheel from your master cylinder if in the UK then its your passenger rear. undo the bleed nipple put the pipe over the nipple make sure its tight fit now get the person to depress the foot pedal you will get a lot of fluid spurt into your jar now do the nipple up while the footbrake is down. let foot pedal up and check the reservoir if needed top up but do not use the bled fluid you have in your jar!. OK go back to the same wheel and do this again, once complete do the union up tight not over tight otherwise you will snap the nipple off and then you will be in serious trouble.
Now repeat this process on the drivers side rear of vehicle. Once that is done check your brake pedal. The car is now ready for a road test once everything has been put back on!! Check me pictures hope this long thread helps somebody.
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