hardwire new hob?

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hi i have replaced my cooker with separate oven and hob. the oven is fitted with a plug which is plugged into a cooker switch with a single socket. the old cooker was hardwired into this, can i now hardwire my hob the same way or should i just use the cooker switch for the hob and use a 13amp socket separatly for the single oven, thanks chrissy

i must add that i have a 30amp supply for hob and must use HO5 RRF 3 core x 4mm cable any idears where i can obtain this ?
 
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Couple of questions
What is the output of the new hob?
What method of installation do the manufactures instructions indicate you should use?
I assume by your post that both appliance come with a fitted moulded 13A plug but require confirmation of this.
If so would suggest installing socket outlets to the cooker circuit and using the cooker switch as isolation. Is the flex of either appliance when plugged in to the Cooker unit socket going to become hazardous?
 
hi the oven came already wired with 13 amp plug. the hob is 6kw and must be hardwired.the original cooker switch with socket had to be moved as it would be over the hob. the cooker switch is now in a cupboard and the oven plugged in. it can be accessed at all times of course. does this help ? (below is pic of my cooker switch) the flex of oven is seperate from the cooker back and is i think covered in black rubber the hob has to have 4mm cable thanks chrissy
 
What type of hob is it?
On simple calculations your hob will require 26A, so the cable and the fuse rating of the existing cooker circuit is fine.
Do you know the output rating of the oven?
I would be a little concerned if having a 13A demand additional to 26A demand, on a circuit only offering 30A.
If we can offer diversity to the two appliances, I am sure it will be fine.
 
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No different than a 9kW cooker, surely?

I don't think the set up is ideal - two isolation switches concealed - but, electrically alright.

Edit - I should have said - two isolation methods.
 
hi silly of me but do not know the wattage i expect its on the back or bottom of oven but it is a cata efm60ss2 a rated single fan oven. i have read all and wonder if it would be better to just connect the hob to a 30a double pole switched fused spur which can be on surface of wall and connect the oven to normal 13amp socket, what do you think ?? thanks chrissy
ps could not find a 30amp fused connection switch only 45a which i was told was ok to use
 
Your not going to get a 30A double pole, fused switch.
What isolator is there now, I thought you had one?
Can't find any info on your oven, seems to be discontinued?
 
hi i have tried to obtain the wattage but even b and q are unable to help me. yes i have a cooker switch with a socket. the oven is plugged into the cooker switch View media item 44228 but i think maybe it would be better to just hardwire the hob into cooker switch. and just leave the oven to plug into ring main as its 13a. erring on the side of caution the hob is 6kw and oven might be too big a load together. View media item 44252 this is plate inside of oven would appreciate any thoughts on this. thanks chrissy
 
If the oven and the hob were welded together and called a cooker, like you used to have, you'd connect it up to the cooker circuit without a worry.

If your old cooker was all electric then it will almost certainly have had a hob which was 5-6kW, plus the oven in the 2-3kW range.

You can connect the hob to the cooker outlet plate, and plug the oven into the socket on the cooker switch. It might look neater though to change the outlet plate to a dual one:

2_373.jpg


and use one side for the hob and the other to supply an FCU for the oven (somewhere accessible in case the fuse ever goes).

This explains what that cable type means:

//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:harcode

Google for h05-rrf and you'll get loads of results.
 
thanks for your info, i understand all. now for problem, where the original cooker switch was, it is above the new hob so had to move it inside of a cupboard where it could be accessed. which means that the main wire that comes into kitchen has to be joined. my solution would be to put a cooker switch and neon, double pole to join the two cables. would this 45amp cooker isolater switch give added protection as both hob and oven could be switched off. hope you understand what im saying very difficult to explain sorry. or i guess i could go back to my other plan so only the hob is connected to a cooker switch and oven to 13amp supply. i guess what is complicating all this is there has to be some way of joining the cable safely thanks chrissy
 
hmm yes i had a ordinary cooker which had a ceramic hob and this was hardwired into cooker switch it also had another double socket and that was all on this cooker circuit . i have found the 45a Easyfit Dual Appliance Outlet Plate, maybe that would be the best idea. thanks chrissy
 
hi again decided to use the dual outlet plate just one question if i use 4mm wire for hob do i use the same for cooker. thanks for your help chrissy
 
hi so 4mm from the dual outlet plate, 1 for 13amp oven plug socket and 1 for hob which has a cooker switch. thanks chrissy
 
hi i have now drawn out the wiring etc for hob and cooker. i believe it is right. no doubt you will tell me if not thanks
 

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