Ventilation

It will do no harm to fit the vent anyway. You will have a "hit & miss" grill on the inside so you can close it off if required. It only needs an air brick and a cavity tube so should not be too expensive.
 
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The classic answer people get for condensation is ventilate, turn the heaters up and insulate

In practice that may not always be practical.

I disagree with maltaron about having a closable hit an miss vent. If there is a condensation issue, then it is air movement which is necessary - and so constant ventilation is normally required. Closable vents tend to be closed when its a bit draughty, and then opened when the room is not used. Which is a bit pointless.

If you need to fit a vent, window trickle vents are easier to fit. But sometimes these may not deal with issues in room corners. THey may be worth a first try though

Otherwise, fit a "passive vent" also known as acoustic vents or draught-free vents, which will have a baffle or membrane within the tube and this ventilates without draughts and external noise - so you don't close them

If there is a possibility of insulating the affected wall or ceiling, then this should be considered

But otherwise think about the property usage. It is normally the damp air from other parts of the property which ends up as mould on the bedroom walls - so deal with things at source

For the bathroom, a central ceiling extract fan may be more useful, along with discreet trickle window vents. Otherwise site the fan appropriately for the bathroom - follow the manufacturers guide - don't just stick it anywhere. Also you need a 10mm gap under the bathroom door
 
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Woody, your correct in saying that the vent if needed should be allways open, but up till my post this thread was leaning towards no vent at all. I commented only that a cheap closable vent was worth putting in. If it worked you could remove the hit & miss and fit a permanently open.
 
If you want some "easy" ventilation in a bungalow, put a soffit board ventilator in the ceiling after clearing a bit of the loft insulation aside. Sleep with the bedroom door open a bit? I have seen this problem often, its always there if a bed has its headboard against an outside wall. Bodies sweat a litre of water at night which then condenses on the nearest cold surface. Other possibilities:- insulate the walls - makes'em warmer - less condensation. Re-route radiator pipes in the area to provide more heat, which cause a better air movement. Under bed storage blocks the air fow really well! as do valences.
Frank
 
If you want some "easy" ventilation in a bungalow, put a soffit board ventilator in the ceiling after clearing a bit of the loft insulation aside.

Apart from the sheer ugliness, where does this vent to?

And do all the insulation fibres come floating through while people are sleeping there with their mouths open?
 
If you want some "easy" ventilation in a bungalow, put a soffit board ventilator in the ceiling after clearing a bit of the loft insulation aside.



And do all the insulation fibres come floating through while people are sleeping there with their mouths open?

Probably, but it serves them right for not keeping their mouths shut at night.
 

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