Wired house alarm with the use of SMS.

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Dear all,

We're looking to buy a house and I'm just getting a heads up on alarm systems. I'm a qualified electrician but with little experience of the alarm market.

I would like a wired system with 5 door contacts, 6 window contacts, 8 PIR sensors, an internal and external siren and 1 keypad.

As I said, I would prefer it to be wired but I am also keen for SMS notification control.
http://www.quicksafe.co.uk/esp-gsm-dialler.htm dialler offers the function but am I right in believing it only conects to it's wireless system?

Is there a system out there that would fit this spec?

Sorry for my naivety around alarms.
Thanks kindly,
Chris
 
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SMS is unreliable.
Try texting your son/daughter, and that is to start with.
Get a speech dialler,it WILL CALL YOU.

You have lots of doors, why window contacts? Remember a window can ( Sash) can be opened from the top, not only the bottom.

Several companies provide speech diallers, SD3 by Cooper is my choice. It does SMS and speech.
 
Thanks all,
Sparkymarka the system you advise of seems perfect.

I've been making a shopping list:

Texecom Premier 48 Kit Grade 3 + Prox Keypad + COM2400
Texecom Premier LCD Prox Keypad White (LCD-P) Grade 3 (We would like a keypad at the top of the stairs so we could alarm the downstairs at night).
Texecom Premier Elite ComGSM GSM / GPRS Communicator So we can use SMS from through our own simcard. (Does this mean that I don't need the Com2400 module?)
Texecom PKK001 Proximity Fob Pack of 5

Can anyone please recommend an internal and external sounder. I would like the external sounder to have it's own backup battery.
Texecom Metal-clad Odyssey 3 115db External Sounder?

Also does anyone have any favourite PIRs? To be futureproof, they would ideally be suitable for pets.

All windows and doors are PVC so I would have to surface mount the sensors. Again can anyone recommend sensors? I would like the system to be grade 2.

Sorry to be needy and thanks for your help :)
 
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Why would you like it to be graded?

It would only be graded if fitted by an approved co...
 
...and its got harder now that all the Grade requirements changed on Friday :cry:

PA confirmation? who ever heard of such a thing...
 
hello is that the police we are being held up at gunpoint this is the confimation...... bang..... lol
 
for what it costs if you fit grade 2 equipment and you you have to have it taken over by an alarm company ( for insurance ) at least all your equipment is to spec...
 
for what it costs if you fit grade 2 equipment and you you have to have it taken over by an alarm company ( for insurance ) at least all your equipment is to spec...

This might have just highlighted a crucial point for me.

It has to be taken on by an alarming company to suffice for insurance purposes?
 
It depends on the insurers. If you do go for a Police response (Not guaranteed but generally you do get a emergency visit with the correct conformation.) , it will require at least grade 2 and provenance as in receipts where purchased and of course the grade. Some of this may be beyond your capabilities but can be changed if you do need the Police ( Remote Alarm Receiving Centre response (ARC)), by the company taking over the maintenance of the system and controls. You will have no control of the programming from that period as their insurances would require you cannot change the parameters needed to have Police response. However you would then have full insurance.

NSI and or SSAIB would be the schemes covered by this and you can find registered companies with them on their websites.
http://www.ssaib.org/
http://www.nsi.org.uk/?q=approved_company_finder
 
Contacts on windows are a completely wasted effort. They were only ever contacted back in the day due to the cost and general unreliability of the first movement detectors that came onto the market. They look bloody awful for a start, unless you can conceal them in the gap between the frame and the opening window. Plus, a locked double glazed window is very difficult to get open. A burglar is much more likely to simply break the glass or such. If you need to protect the window, and electronic vibration detector is a much better bet.
 
And when a heavy lorry trundles past?
Contacts on windows a wasted effort? Tell that to my client who had 300 contacts as well as PIR`s on the system. All in all 489 zones. Yes a large property. But not the smallest job I have installed. (Contacts on both top and bottom sash in case your wondering).
Vibration detectors are fine for certain circumstances, like safe limpets for example. Break glass is another that is now out of favour. As the frequencies are now different with laminated glass.
scott you have a lot to learn about security systems, and your advice is limited.
 
and electronic vibration detector is a much better bet.
As mentioned vibration from passing vehicles can trigger them if they are set too sensitive and then they may fail to trigger if the glass is broken and removed gently.

There are more definate methods of detecting broken glass but they are more expensive. Detecting pressure change in the space between the panes of double glasing units or changes in the conductivity of an invisible tin oxide coating are methods used.

Personally to detect entry through a window reliably and at reasonable cost I would use a break beam detector, which with care about curtain placement could cover several windows with one pair of source and sensor.
 
and electronic vibration detector is a much better bet.
As mentioned vibration from passing vehicles can trigger them if they are set too sensitive and then they may fail to trigger if the glass is broken and removed gently.
Electronic vibration detectors as you call them are designed to to react to high frequency vibration, breaking glass, splintering of of wood hammering of concrete etc.

How do you break glass gently?

Even using a glass cutter the glass still has to be broken, causing the high frequency vibration that will trip the detector.

The only proviso is that the detectors are set-up correctly, if a calibration tool is available, use it, guess work is no good.

I've fitted hundreds over the years from wooden, metal and PVC windows to brick and concrete walls, if done correctly, no problem.

(Even with vehicles)
 

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