DAMP - which option is best?

Pineman · 7 Aug 2012

Hi - wonder if you could advise? We have a 1920's bungalow which has always had some damp, but we've not bothered about it until now as we're coming to sell and the home report gave it bad marks for that. So we've had 3 people to look at it all with different solutions.

As we're aiming to fix to sell, we need to get it back looking good soon with no damp coming through - which do you think would be the best option? It seems like mainly rising damp with perhaps slight penetrating:

1) Worst room to strip all old plaster to ceiling. Attach damp proof membrane. Replaster. 2nd worst room to insert dpc, strip plaster to approx 1 m and replaster

2) Worst room to strip all old plaster to ceiling. Fix wooden battons and attach foil backed plasterboard. Also for 2nd worst room

3) In every external wall to strip plaster to necessary level (approx 1 m), insert a dpc and replaster with sand/cement/waterproofer

So 3 people, 3 solutions - any thoughts?? Thank you!

JohnD · 7 Aug 2012

start by increasing the ventilation enormously

Post some pics

has it got a slate damp course or what? where is that in relation to outside ground level?

is it damp under the floors? is there a leak? how many air bricks, and how many are blocked up?

If you invite a dampproofing salesman into your home, you will be sure he'll recommend you buy his dampproofing.

Pineman · 7 Aug 2012

Thanks: it's quite well ventilated (now) and we keep dehumidifiers running too. Yes, think slate damp proof course that doesn't seem compromised by outside ground height. We've been under the floors but no sign of a leak. People commented on the ventilation being quite good - each room has an airbrick to the old chimneys and plenty of underfloor vents from the outside. However - a general smell of damp in the bungalow and you can see discolouration on the walls to about 2-4 feet? In some corners the walls actually feel damp to the touch...
PS: now the home report has given a '3' (worst) to the damp problem the surveyor thinks we'll NEED to get something done to be able to show guarantees/receipts to prospective purchasers. It's just what!

JohnD · 7 Aug 2012

you could just let the buyers knock a couple of thou off the asking price, then they can deal with it however they want.

Are the walls solid?

Do the gutters leak?

When running dehumidifiers you have tp shut the doors and windows, or they will try to dehumidify the world.

Pineman · 8 Aug 2012

Thanks again! Unfortunately already tried the knocking money off, but everyone was after such a complete bargain knowing there was work to be done ("the inconvenience" etc etc...). Well, will just try one of the options we've been given and hope it works...

JohnD · 8 Aug 2012

do the gutters leak?

Pineman · 8 Aug 2012

No, no leaking gutters. That's the thing - there's nothing obviously (to the untrained eye) causing it. No leaks (from gutters or under floor). Roof fine. Ventilation good. Outer walls/render not in best condition but could be a lot worse... But house is very damp.

chriselevate · 10 Aug 2012

1920 property you say? The main thing you need to know is... is it a solid wall or has it got a cavity? Is it a solid 9" or 11" construction mate?

Peet · 14 Aug 2012

JohnD said:
If you invite a dampproofing salesman into your home, you will be sure he'll recommend you buy his dampproofing.

Yep! Gauranteed!

It's only option 3 out of those that doesn't sound like a bodge.

Have you thought about taking a brick or two out of the inner or outer wall just above the slate damp course and looking at what's actually going on? There's no substitute for knowing yourself what's what before getting in somebody to fix it. I've fixed a couple of damp problems by doing this and then, with a wet & dry vac sucking out all the debris resting on the DPC. Stuff like fallen mortar and debris that's gone down the cavity from when the roof was reslated.

chriselevate · 14 Aug 2012

Peet said:
Have you thought about taking a brick or two out of the inner or outer wall just above the slate damp course and looking at what's actually going on?

Can you be sure the OP has got a cavity wall? All my problems in my 1934 house are caused by it being a solid construction with no cavity.

Peet · 14 Aug 2012

That's a good point Chris!

Andrewmudge · 16 Aug 2012

Even solid walls aren't a problem if they are maintained as intended, the problem is people just add paint ,render and waterproofers etc without thought or question. get a proper solutions based individual in, or even a knowledgeable tradesman.

peterperfection · 18 Aug 2012

JohnD said:
start by increasing the ventilation enormously

Post some pics

has it got a slate damp course or what? where is that in relation to outside ground level?

is it damp under the floors? is there a leak? how many air bricks, and how many are blocked up?

If you invite a dampproofing salesman into your home, you will be sure he'll recommend you buy his dampproofing.

Listen to this guy.
A man after my own heart .

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DAMP - which option is best?

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