Methods of testing auto dialler

I spoke to texecom and they said it ought to work under alarm if it does under engineer test unless there's an output problem. So they suggested connecting the dialler to bell negative instead of the communicator interface if I only want a trigger for intruder and see if that works.
 
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Here's an update. Some more information which I wasn't aware of.

I've been 'setting the alarm off' as a test, to test the system as it would work under an intrusion.

The reason why the communicator output wasn't triggering the dialler is because I've been using my hallway/circulation PIR to get the alarm ringing. This is an entry/exit zone and regulations says that an entry/exit zone cannot trigger a communicator. But it could trigger the communicator if it were a guard circuit.

That seems like a load of rubbish to me, as why does a regulation say that if someone bashes in my front door, runs through the house etc, the siren will go off to tell my neighbours, but I'm not allowed to know via the dialler calling my phone? Crazy idea. :rolleyes:
 
SaladFingers said:
Here's an update. Some more information which I wasn't aware of.

I've been 'setting the alarm off' as a test, to test the system as it would work under an intrusion.

The reason why the communicator output wasn't triggering the dialler is because I've been using my hallway/circulation PIR to get the alarm ringing. This is an entry/exit zone and regulations says that an entry/exit zone cannot trigger a communicator. But it could trigger the communicator if it were a guard circuit.

That seems like a load of rubbish to me, as why does a regulation say that if someone bashes in my front door, runs through the house etc, the siren will go off to tell my neighbours, but I'm not allowed to know via the dialler calling my phone? Crazy idea. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Oh dear, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing.

Entry through the front door starts the entry timer.

The detector in the hall then switches to be a entry circuit, allowing access to the panel to switch off the alarm.

If the alarm is not switched off at the end of the entry time, a full alarm condition will occur.

If someone broke in through a hall window and is detected by the hall detector, NO entry timer, a full alarm condition.
 
Europlex said:
SaladFingers said:
Here's an update. Some more information which I wasn't aware of.

I've been 'setting the alarm off' as a test, to test the system as it would work under an intrusion.

The reason why the communicator output wasn't triggering the dialler is because I've been using my hallway/circulation PIR to get the alarm ringing. This is an entry/exit zone and regulations says that an entry/exit zone cannot trigger a communicator. But it could trigger the communicator if it were a guard circuit.

That seems like a load of rubbish to me, as why does a regulation say that if someone bashes in my front door, runs through the house etc, the siren will go off to tell my neighbours, but I'm not allowed to know via the dialler calling my phone? Crazy idea. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Oh dear, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing.

Entry through the front door starts the entry timer.

The detector in the hall then switches to be a entry circuit, allowing access to the panel to switch off the alarm.

If the alarm is not switched off at the end of the entry time, a full alarm condition will occur.

If someone broke in through a hall window and is detected by the hall detector, NO entry timer, a full alarm condition.
Click to expand...

Non non. Before the 'Oh dear, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing' comment, which is easy to say on a forum.

You misunderstand. Regardless of timer, on an entry circuit, the communicator will NOT trigger, that's the way the panel works. Texecom tell me that's to meet regulations. Goodness knows why, so if an entry/exit circuit is opened, the alarm rings away, but you'll not know by the autodialler (unless you connect that to bell 0ve), as the output will not trigger.

On a guard circuit, then the communicator triggers.
 
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sounds like the op is confirmed, not unconfirmed. Just bang it off the bell trigger, done.

Crap panel anyhooo :eek:
 
Premier would have been a better choice imo

24 is an excellent wee panel.
 
I assume this is a DiY system?

If it is the 'regulations' don't come into it.

Check >
Factory Settings
Miscellaneous Selections Zero (00) > Option 5 ( EN 50131-1 Requirements )

If ON, turn OFF

Then try again.


I really don't understand why people continually say, why that panel(?), this panel is better etc etc. This is a DiY Forum, not a Pro Forum, it's the panel of choice by the DiYer, they are only asking for a little help and understanding.

(Even the 'recommended' panel would not be mine, but I'm not going there.)
 
Well, DIY system you say. It's a good system and yes I 'did it myself', I'm an electrian so wiring things isn't a problem.

Even if I 'do it myself', it shouldn't mean I don't have a quality system. If I 'do it myself' or a contractor installs it, either way it just ought to be suitable for a home.

Sure if I had a prestigious car garage then maybe another system may have features/functions that I may like/need as the risk may increase.
 
SaladFingers said:
Why what's up with the panel?
Click to expand...
Ok then, in answer to the above, nothing.

So, you are a electrician, what has that got to do with anything?

It is the workings of alarm systems that you don't understand.

Good luck.
 
Well, I certainly understand a lot more now after speaking to texecom, sorry to say not from talking to you. Seems there's at least two of us who don't understand a lot.

But its running and working fine. Ultimately what I didn't understand was which circuit would trigger the dialler, which wouldn't and why, as it appears to me at least to negate the purpose of a dialler.
 
Well, it looks to me that you still don't understand the intricacies of the workings of alarm systems, still never mind. If you've got it working to your satisfaction, what the hell.
 
Well, I do understand after some research and talking to texecom, I reported above what I were told as the reasons why. Now I've understood what they told me, are you saying that their wrong? Are you not understanding either? Don't be offended, I'm just trying to work out why you think I don't understand what they've told me, when I've understood what they've told me. Do you hold the opinion that if my house gets broken into, that I'm not entitled to know? If i install a communicator, I want it to communicate. Are you not understanding that texecom say the output will not trigger on an entry circuit?

But indeed I may not know as much as someone who does this all the time, but I asked texecom questions about what I wanted to know and I understand their answers. So what's the problem?
 
I fitted a Texecom Excel panel along with a speech dialler earlier in the year. I ran into the problem that the dialler would not work on the Entry/Exit zone. I would have been happy if I could have got the dialler to call my mobile whatever the trigger. I e-mailed and spoke to Texecom several times but they were not very helpful. I have had the dialler Pin 1 connected to the Bell terminal, on the suggestion of Texecom, but have just discovered this did not work because the Bell terminal makes a -ve connection. The manual suggests this as a way of wiring the dialler but maybe I needed to change the way the panel is programmed.
I have now done what Europlex suggested, setting option 5 in the miscellaneous Selections Zero, the EN50131 requirements, to 1, wired the dialler as Texecom suggest and Hey Presto. I have done several tests and everything seems to work - I should even get the appropriate message to tell me what the problem is. Since this is a DIY project & I am more interested in the alarm doing what I want rather than conforming to some European Standard. As regards the Excel Panel, I am quite happy with it, but as an amateur who only fits a new alarm every 10 years I found the instructions difficult to get to grips with. They are prepared for the professional installer and not the DIY guy. Thanks for providing this vital tip - why oh why didn't the Texecom man tell me 6 months ago.
 
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