Dry lining - does it really wor?

Pineman · 22 Aug 2012

Hi. I know there's a lot of info on dry lining out there but (typically) not quite what I'm trying to find out. Basically, on a wall that's damp (penetrating) and will stay damp due to the cavity wall insulation getting wet, we have been given this as an option: "Take off plaster, frame wall with 50x25mm treated farming fiexed to brick wall with metal vine eyes. Fix 12.5mm foil backed plasterboard"

Would the damp just penetrate the wood? And if so, what sort of time frame would it take to happen?

The other solution we've been offered is to again take off all the old plaster, but then to put up a damp proof membrane before re-plastering.

Thoughts on which is most effective??

Many thanks!

joe-90 · 22 Aug 2012

How about fixing your damp issues? Anything else is a temporary bodge.

Pineman · 22 Aug 2012

Wow, that's a good idea. Wish we'd thought of it. Oh yes, we did.

Penetrating damp through dodgy render. Fixed. But old cavity wall insulation soaked through and will take years to dry. Either extract it all or dryline/dpm.

Ah - that takes me back to my original question...

AronSearle · 22 Aug 2012

wood is hygroscopic, so yes.

You would need DPC, either strips cut to the back of the battens or a sheet on the wall.

Pineman · 22 Aug 2012

Many thanks! That makes sense, and worthwhile doing in addition to just the batons/foil board. Would hate to go to the trouble of dry lining and then have the damp penetrating through really quickly

jeds · 22 Aug 2012

A good remedy for this situation is thermal laminate board. (plasterboard with PUR foam on the back) The foam is closed cell so no moisture gets through. Yes you do have joints but I've specified this system many times - sometimes on VERY damp walls - and have never known it come through. You get the advantage of the thermal performance which reduces or eliminates condensation. The board can be mechanically fixed so can easily be removed leaving very little underlying damage. Battens are unecessary. Fix direct to the wall. As long as there is a route for the dampness to migrate outwards you won't get a problem. You will end up with a dry, warm wall that will be trouble free for quite a few years.

joe-90 · 22 Aug 2012

Pineman said:
Wow, that's a good idea. Wish we'd thought of it. Oh yes, we did.

Penetrating damp through dodgy render. Fixed. But old cavity wall insulation soaked through and will take years to dry. Either extract it all or dryline/dpm.

Ah - that takes me back to my original question...

Then why not say that FFS

^woody^ · 22 Aug 2012

If the existing wall is a damp as you say it is, then dry lining will just cause the evaporating damp to run down your new cavity behind the boards and soak the floor

Damp insulation or not, the moisture should not be be migrating to the inner leaf unless you still have a penetrating damp problem.

joe-90 · 22 Aug 2012

He's fixed it mate (so he thinks

)

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Dry lining - does it really wor?

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