flue liners

hi ive got an old oil burning rayburn in the kitchen which i would like to take out and replace with a multifuel (log) as it costs a fortune to run and logs are free and plentiful! it would be going in the same inglenook whuch already has a flue all the way up to the top of the roof my question for this is would the flue that is in place be ok to use for the new multifuel burner or would it need to be replaced?

the other question ive got is at the other end of the house is a chimney which has been blanked off at the bottom and was looking to build a bit more of a fire surround and put another small burner in, as there is already a chimney there would it just be a case of dropping a liner down the chimney and connecting up to the new burner?

i know there are regs and stuff in plce and i would probably be getting the pros in to do the job so this would be for a bit of knowledge so that i know what it basically entails and i dont sound too naive

cheers

steve

You will need a class “A” flue liner for a wood/multi-fuel stove. Unsure what type of liner oil burners use but if the Rayburn installation is of any age, you’d do best to replace the old liner with a new twin wall, insulated liner of the correct diameter for the stove you are installing, usually 150mm. At the very least you should get the existing liner checked for condition & suitability. Installing a wood or multi-fuel stove is indeed controlled building work & there are several building regulations you must satisfy regarding the flue/liner, hearth size/construction, ventilation, CO alarm, notice plate etc.; http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stove_building_regulations.html

You can DIY install but will need a certificate of compliance & to get this you will either need to use a HETAS registered installer or submit a building notice & have the stove installation inspected & tested by your LABC. Flue liners are usually fitted to the stove using a register plate at the bottom & support with rain cowl at the top. To maintain flue temperature & stove efficiency, flue installations should be insulated.

Is the existing Rayburn hooked up to a central heating system? If you intend running a C/H on a solid fuel boiler then there will a whole load of other considerations both technical & safety.

thanks for that, the rayburn has a back boiler on it at the moment but im totally renovating the house and putting in new central heating, plumbing, electrics, pulling up floors to insulate and put down ufh, insulating walls etc etc etc the list is going to get bigger and bigger as it goes on.

i wasnt sure if i could install them myself i'l look into that with the local council as most of the other work will be done by myself and calling in a few favours along the way.

many thanks

I would check out your local independent HETAS installers (as opposed to one from a stove shop); http://www.hetas.co.uk/nearest_member & get some quotes, you might be pleasantly surprised as I was. I sourced my own multi-fuel stove & did all the building work but subbed the flue & stove installation to an independent HETAS installer but make sure they are happy for you to do the work & certify it.

He made it all look so easy & the stove was installed, commissioned & certified in one longish day & he had problems with a flue obstruction. It cost me less than £1000 & that included the liner, fittings & insulation. I though it was money well spent as, TBH, I’d probably have messed & struggled with it for several days + the cost & hassle of involving Building Control. Climbing onto a roof with a SS flue liner strapped to your back ain’t for the feint hearted either!

If you are replacing the main heat source of the house with a log burner
be advised that keep the house warm will require
a lot of effort.

Thinking you will be able to sit there and small log is going to heat the whole house is wearing rose tinted glasses.

You haven't mentioned any other heat source.

with the cost of solar water (which i have at my current address running with an oil system boiler and my heating bill is half of an equivalent house) i will be putting this in

also with the cost of solar pv now half of what it was even though the feed in tariff is half as well i am thinking to put this in as well and run an air source heat pump which would then do away with the need for any boiler etc

the only thing i would have to do is make sure when i restore the house is get u values etc so i can get maximum feed in tariffs etc

been on the roof and its a 6" flue external diameter and it looks as if its 5" internal with insulation in between

how could i tell if its a class A or not?