Boiler cuts out when case on.

Agile said:

Cirt, you have to understand that for common sense and legal reasons ....
Tony

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Cirks rather than Cirt! I do Tony and I appreciate any guidance anyone can give. I'm a professional in my field and I don't begrudge paying professionals in the 'gas' field to do their job! It would just be good to avoid paying more than once.......

I should add that as the Potterton contract is a 'repair and warranty' for which I've already paid, I definitely won't be doing the work myself BUT they won't do flues so if it's not that (or more to the point not internal to the boiler) then they should be back to do it under contract. If it is flue, that's something I need to get someone else to do

I cannot comment on what any firm may choose to do from a business point of view!

But a boiler and flue operate together as a composite and it seems unreasonable to deal with only some aspects of the installation.

Tony

Agile said:

I cannot comment on what any firm may choose to do from a business point of view!

But a boiler and flue operate together as a composite and it seems unreasonable to deal with only some aspects of the installation.

Tony

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Agreed and I'd prefer to "argue the toss" with them than a) me try doing anything to the boiler or b) go round in circles with getting other engineers round!

Particuarly annoying would be to be told it's the flue (which will as far as I understand to remove/check will involve damage to the plastering through which it goes) only to find it's not!

it is a simple test at the flue sampling point which is is carried out by a competent engineer using a combustion analyser.

as said there are a several issues which can cause similar flame failure issues. The fact your boiler will only fire with the combustion box door removed, in my opinion, points very strongly to a failure on the flue.

This does not mean that it could not be something else, but it is where would start.

I have only had 1 instance of this exact symptom being caused by another fault, which was where the g.v had been massively maladjusted, causing an issue to the incoming air supply.

Finally. Under no circumstances should you attempt to run the boiler without the combustion box door on, nor should you attempt any diy repair work. I have endeavoured to be as helpful as I can without supplying specific information that could be used to attempt a repair.

rojaca said:

Finally. Under no circumstances should you attempt to run the boiler without the combustion box door on, nor should you attempt any diy repair work. I have endeavoured to be as helpful as I can without supplying specific information that could be used to attempt a repair.

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Your help is appreciated and I won't be doing anything myself regarding the boiler internals etc or firing up with the box door off.

As a matter of interest though - if your suggestion is to start with the flue, is that a case of removing the flue and checking seals and inlet before or after getting someone qualified back to put a analyser on it? Will they test with the box door off while the boiler is actually fired up?

you can speak to heateam to arrange for an engineer to return to check the integrity of the flue. a sample at the air inlet sampling point will tell them whether any products of combustion are present in the incoming air. If any are found this will usually indicate that one of the internal flue seals is faulty. However as you have already been advised that this is the case, should you call heateam back and this is found to be the fault, you may well be charged to cover the cost of the returning engineers visit.

rojaca said:

I have only had 1 instance of this exact symptom being caused by another fault, which was where the g.v had been massively maladjusted, causing an issue to the incoming air supply.

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Exactly! The OP has had a replacement gas valve!

There are some nupty engineers who dont realise that you have to adjust a new gas valve to achieve the correct combustion parameters!

Tony