Changeover Switch

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russellsmiler

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What switchgear??

Sure many of you can help with this one?

I/we (my neighbour) co own a set of decent size outbuildings that are wired up and have distribution in place within the buildings. the buildings are fed by way of 16mm SWA cable that terminates in a secure/weathertight co owned by me and neighbour, communal lean to.
Basically we both have capasity and spare ways in our internal nearby distribution boards,
We both are going to run a supply to the secure lean to, and from there we want to be able to alternate who powers up the outbuildings, for instance if my neighbour is working on his little hobby overnight i/we want him to supply the power, and when i am doing what i do and he is away (which happens to both of us) he would want me to pay for the power.
I believe that a changeover switch is the answer to our quest (I am expecting many posts asking why we want to do this , and also giving alternative ways with use of meters ect, but this is both our preffered way)

So I beleieve a simple changeover swith with power 1 position, off position and power 2 position is the answer.

Anybody direct me to a product??

Many thanks Russell.
 
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Why don't you make it simple and just co-own the bill as well? ;)
 
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Its not a case of using meters and coming to what split agreements
we both want to have manual control over who is using the power.

Example...if i am not using the house for 3 months (this happens) we can switch/ set power to outbuildings for neighbour, i can trip fuse at my board so it would not power of my board a whilst away ( neighbour may want to craftily use my power)., all power used by outbuildings are through neighbours meter...I come home and neighbour goes away for a few weeks, we can switch over to using my power supply/ meter.

It may sound aan odd set up but this is what we are doing.

What switchgear anyone??
 
I would keep it simple and put two completely separate power supplies in the shed, preferably at opposite ends. Have you considered that your two houses might be on different phases?
 
Are the two properties on the same phase of the supply? Do they have the same earthing system?
 
Yes thats what i thought i may need

Agree is ugly!!, But so am I!!

Maybe there are more svelte models available??
 
stillp said:
russellsmiler said:
Yes same supply identical systems!!
Click to expand...
You're probably right, but how do you know that for certain?
Click to expand...
If it is your next door neighbour then it is more likely that you are NOT on the same phase.

Even if you split the cost of a safe change-over unit between the two users it is likely one persons share of the cost would be more than the cost of giving the other "free" electricity in the swork shop.

Use supply from one house a meter it with a meter for each person. Use a pair of key switches to select which meter the supply goes through.

Or use a dual rate meter and a key switch to determine which of the counters is recording the units used.
 
Thankyou bernard that seems a decent solution !! However!!

We are a pair of rural cottages with a overhead supply going into 1 with a connector block onto earth n live going into cottage 2. No doubt we are on same phase!!

we disagree about so many thing as neighbours in that we want to have identical work done to feed the lean to and from there the outbuildings!!

i am not looking at alternatives, but want to use a changeover switch
just looking for advise on the switchgear!!

Thanks
russell
 
Given that you are on the same phase then use a pair of contactors to decide which house sources the power to the out buildings.

Use auxillary contacts to electrically interlock them so they cannot both be energised at the same time. Each person has their own key switch.

Supply A via A's key switch and a normally closed contact on contactor B to the coil of contactor A

Supply B via B's key switch and a normally closed contact on contactor A to the coil of contactor B

Using 230 to 24 volt transformers and 24 volt coils in the contactors will keep the 230 volts away from the key switches
 
bernardgreen said:
Supply A via A's key switch and a normally closed contact on contactor B to the coil of contactor A

Supply B via B's key switch and a normally closed contact on contactor A to the coil of contactor B

Using 230 to 24 volt transformers and 24 volt coils in the contactors will keep the 230 volts away from the key switches
Click to expand...

I'll second that. A most elegant solution which also prevents cheating. :cool: :cool: :cool:
 
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