Wooden flooring - to nail or float?

ah, not that i was planning to run the boards in different directions in any event!

So i should be okay round the hearth using the "frame" tyoe layout as long as i leave a fairly limited depth to the rebate in case of expansion

its in a living room and i will leave the flooring in the room for a couple of weeks before I start - its not even a fireplace we use! Should i unwrap the floor whilst it aclimatises to the room?

str - what's the front (and sides) vertical of the hearth face made of? Your drawing suggests - tiles or stone top ('cos of that overhanging lip) and maybe similar material for the upstands ... is this so? If so do the upstands sit on the existing floor or do they go below?

In siuations like this we attempt to re-shape the hearth upstands by removing any tile/stone cladding then cutting away the masonry to create space for expansion. This works well if you have 'detachable' upstand faces (tile/stone) as once the floor is located into the grooves in the masonry the upstand facing can be refitted. Of course you have to trim a slither equal to the thickness of the floor from the upstands to get them to fit but the end result looks good.

Using this method you don't need to frame around the hearth but I think an accent frame, say 1/3 a board width, makes a nice transition, especially with mitred corners. Tip: when fashioning the frame arrange for its outer edge to accept the tongues, especially from the boards at the sides of the hearth ... this'll help prevent them from the slight cupping that may happen there. Also, remember that if you have to reverse the direction of a board you can insert a glued 'loose tongue' strip to ensure continuity of tongues for secret nailing ... especially useful when doing those bits around the side of the hearth.

The hearth is made of marble - we had it fitted a few years ago after the mrs wanted the then wooden floor ripped out and carpets put down.

Couple of kids and carpets later, we are going back to wooden flooring!

I understand what you saying about cutting into the hearth but don't think I cold get this done - would need a new hearth.

I like the detail of the frame round the hearth and had thought about making sure I keep the boards the right way to accept the tongues of the full boards.

str - marble clad hearths generally have upstands fixed with adhesive (usually a tile type but can be a building adhesive similar to Gripfil or a silicone type). In my experience you can usually prise the upstands off without breaking them and refix later.

As to cutting the slither off - this can be achieved by the DIYer using an angle grinder/diamond blade combo along a clamped-on timber straightedge. If you don't fancy DIY take the upstands to your local monumental mason (Yellow Pages) ... the guy who does gravestones. They'll cut the slithers off for a 'drink'.

You don't have to lift the marble that forms the top of the hearth ... leave it in place. Your aim is to reveal the vertical masonary that the upstands are stuck to ... it's into this that you fashion the cut away - don't use an angle grinder for this as you'll fill the whole house with dust (YES YOU WILL even if you tape around the closed room door). Best to use a club hammer/chisel combo - this does not need to be a neat job as the masonry face will be covered by your marble upstands

Just to be clear - the grooves on the outside edge of the transition frame at the sides of the hearth accept the end tongues of the boards.

Cheers symptoms


The original Heath (stone or concrete) is below the raised marble hearth and is level with the original suspended timber floor.

The marble hearth sits on top of this - we had it fitted when a gas fire was installed. I think the top piece of the hearth is supported by the sides and am assuming there is a void underneath it (very small void)

Not sre I would risk cutting the upstands myself! I think it would need to be taken out to be cut and I would need to put in some support to take the wait of he top if he upstands were cut to accept the floor.

I think I will go down the rote of the frame layout and also some oak strips to give an expansion space round the hearth.

Hello,

I'm Daniel, a wood flooring expert, and just thought I'd introduce myself before I answer your question as I am new to this forum.

As you are using a solid hardwood floor, i would not recommend using the floating or gluing installation methods. I think nailing it down is the best option. Also, be sure that you lay the planks in the opposing direction to the timber floors as it will provide you with more stability.

I also recommend using a polyfoam underlay beneath the flooring. This will not only provide some insulation, but get rid of any squeaking.

Beg to differ on using underlayment when secret nailing Floorsave. This underlayment will be rendered useless due to the impact and angle of the nails. Waste of effort, materials and money!