I was decorating, and removed a light switch from the wall but didnt remove any wires. When i was putting the switch back on, I caught the common with the screw and lost all lights upstairs. I reset the rcb put still no lights, except the hall. I realised at this point the downstairs lights were also out, but they are on a different loop. I've checked the bulbs and changed the switch but still no joy. Could it be both rcb's? Ive heard they are generally the last thing to go.
Lighting loops not working!
- Thread starter lcooksey
- Start date
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Have any other breakers tripped?
Could we have a picture of the consumer unit?
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Nice board you have there , 3 different manufacturers in one enclosure.
The main board is a GE and you now have British General and controlgear direct MCBS fitted.
I am guessing this was not installed by a sparky ????
The problem with your lights is either going to be a faulty MCB or you have other fuses inline which may have blown when you trapped the cable. possibly in a spur unit or the like.
I would reccommend getting the lot checked out as the first signs from your picture of the fuse box are not inspiring me with confidence in the rest of the installation being upto scratch.
Nick
The main board is a GE and you now have British General and controlgear direct MCBS fitted.
I am guessing this was not installed by a sparky ????
The problem with your lights is either going to be a faulty MCB or you have other fuses inline which may have blown when you trapped the cable. possibly in a spur unit or the like.
I would reccommend getting the lot checked out as the first signs from your picture of the fuse box are not inspiring me with confidence in the rest of the installation being upto scratch.
Nick
Thanks for the info. I moved into the property around 6 months ago and would you believe the full rewire of the house was the first job we had done!!! I dont think theres any spurs left as hopefully he removed them when he did the rewire. I'll have the box checked out!
I am not casting any aspersions here, but did you have any certificates left with you by the electrician who carried out the rewire ??
The board is not upto the 17th edition of the wiring regulations and as you have not been able to buy that style of fusebox for quite a few years i suspect he was using old stock up.
If you have any certs, feel free to post a scan up with his details blocked out and we can visually check them for you .
Can you post a picture of your electric meter and main incoming supply as that may tell us a story aswell.
Nick
The board is not upto the 17th edition of the wiring regulations and as you have not been able to buy that style of fusebox for quite a few years i suspect he was using old stock up.
If you have any certs, feel free to post a scan up with his details blocked out and we can visually check them for you .
Can you post a picture of your electric meter and main incoming supply as that may tell us a story aswell.
Nick
The board was left uninstalled with the house, and the electrician was happy to fit it, but we didn't realise it wasn't to standard.
I've uploaded the photos of the board and the certificates he left.
In your opinion, should the board have been installed and is there any overseeing organisation who we can complain to as we feel we've been ripped off? //media.diynot.com/198000_1979...ot.com/198000_197924_54314_87166852_thumb.jpg
I've uploaded the photos of the board and the certificates he left.
In your opinion, should the board have been installed and is there any overseeing organisation who we can complain to as we feel we've been ripped off? //media.diynot.com/198000_1979...ot.com/198000_197924_54314_87166852_thumb.jpg
I'm afraid they are too blurred to read.
where to start?
The cutout is protected with a 100a 60898? That's new to me!
More to follow I'm sure as I browse the EIC
The cutout is protected with a 100a 60898? That's new to me!
More to follow I'm sure as I browse the EIC
Maybe it's the only BS number he knows as aparrently the main switch is a BSEN 60898 device too (which it clearly isn't!)
The 'test' results on those certificates are worthless.
Some obvious and blatant errors:
TT system with a Ze of less than 1 ohm.
Earth electrode not tested and apparently not even looked at. Might not even be one.
Main switch is not a 60898 100A, and it's highly unlikely it ever would be.
Ring circuit measurements are implausibly low.
Upstairs sockets not a ring, yet using 2.5mm cable on a 32A device.
Lights recorded as both 6A breakers, yet clearly one of them is a 10A. (Maybe is was replaced later on - but why?)
Loop impedance measurements are all lies.
999 M ohms for everything seems unlikely - and which instrument would give such readings? Flukes only go up to 500, and many others only to 199 or 200.
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