.......yet you need 3-pole isolation to work on a fan.
The irony is in the fact that they are only isolating the 'Line' conductor by pulling the fuse - not the 'neutral'.......was I not clear??
Fair enough, but "Bernard's reason" (which has been cited by a good few others in the past) applies in both cases, doesn't it?
Yes, that is ironical, particularly in a TT installation, in which case the regs would not regard it as 'adequate isolation'. I was wrong/careless when I used the term "true isolation". What I meant, and should have written, was "all-pole isolation" (i.e. 'true isolation' in a literal everyday sense) - since (per the 'Bernard reason') that is what is required to isolate a N-E fault.I was also commenting on what you termed 'true isolation'.........ironically, a spark can get the DNO in to pull the main fuse so that he can do a CU swap on an installation - but an extractor fan needs 3-pole isolation???
In my experience, that's unusual these days.
OwainDIYer";p="2650741 said:
Had a brainwave and there is a (Click Scolmore) grid solution for that!!
mini grid 3 pole isolator http://www.astra247.com/8164/Electr...le-Fan-Isolation-Lockable-Switch/Polar-White/
plus a mini grid fuse module http://www.astra247.com/7147/Electrical/Mini-Grid-13A-Fused-Spur-Module/Polar-White/
All in a suitable plate. Job done.
Also I see that the 3 pole isolator is lockable. Don't know if it is lockable in the ON position though.........
I don't quite understand your point - am I talking myself into confusion?I have only ever fitted one of these ceiling fan/lights, although I have come across a few, (both my mother and mother in law have them), but I have yet to come across one with it's own, seperate isolator. They utilise the existing lighting circuit via the existing light switch and you run a second switch drop if you want seperate control of the fan. So what happens if, as Bernard says, :-You switch it off at the light switch and call an electrician........as you would with the bathroom fan.
. In the case of a ceiling fan+light, switching it off at the light switch (2 switches, if fan is switched separately) will remove all L feeds from the fan+light - therefore safe whilst one waits for the electrician to turn up (the worst posible issue, nuisance but not unsafe, being a persisting RCD trip if there is a N-E fault). The issue with extractor fans relates only to 'timer' ones (because they have a 'permanent L' feed) - which creates a different situation to that with the ceiling fan+light. If smoke or flames (or frighening noises) starts coming out of one of those, almost certainly fuelled by the 'permanent L', switching off the light switch will do nothing, and only switching the circuit off at a CU (if there is no 'fan isolator') will make things safe whilst awaiting the electrician.It were actually OwainDIYer, not me, but ...
Clever idea. If you were simply putting that in the feed to to the fan, you might have to up that to two fuse modules, if you believed that the MIs were calling for both L and S/L feeds to be fuse-protected.Had a brainwave and there is a grid solution for that!!
mini grid 3 pole isolator ... plus a mini grid fuse module ... All in a suitable plate. Job done. Also I see that the 3 pole isolator is lockable. Don't know if it is lockable in the ON position though.........
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
