How do these work?
- Thread starter chriselevate
- Start date
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The two bits of the spring get pulled away from each other, the small bit sits vertical and the large bit sits above the plaster board on the horizontal.
Your fittings have ladders on the size to adjust for thickness on boarding.
Your fittings have ladders on the size to adjust for thickness on boarding.
So do I need access to the top of the plasterboard then? I have only got access from the room below so I don't know if this will cause a problem?
The springs should be pointing down.
You push the springs upwards lying them flat against the main body. Once the blades / ends are through the plaster you'll find they start to pull the light up flush (first time if lucky!!) to the ceiling.
You push the springs upwards lying them flat against the main body. Once the blades / ends are through the plaster you'll find they start to pull the light up flush (first time if lucky!!) to the ceiling.
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Your plasterboard hole size needs to be pretty exact for these to work.
Basically you squeeze the long springs(the ones with the tabs) against the body and push body and springs up through the hole. Then the shorter springs make contact with the lower side (room side) of the plasterboard and bend out horizontally on the room side. At this stage you keep pushing the fitting into the ceiling and the short springs force the longer springs to bend down horizontally onto the upper side of the plasterboard, so holding the fitting up.
It is a little awkward but it does work.
The fun part is trying to reverse the operation if you ever want to get the fitting out
Basically you squeeze the long springs(the ones with the tabs) against the body and push body and springs up through the hole. Then the shorter springs make contact with the lower side (room side) of the plasterboard and bend out horizontally on the room side. At this stage you keep pushing the fitting into the ceiling and the short springs force the longer springs to bend down horizontally onto the upper side of the plasterboard, so holding the fitting up.
It is a little awkward but it does work.
The fun part is trying to reverse the operation if you ever want to get the fitting out
Ignore me! It appears I managed to speak out my botty burp hole again.
Need caffeine!!
Need caffeine!!
This fitting can be a bit tricky, you need to make sure the clips are adjusted correctly.
You do not need access to ceiling void from above, but if the ceilings are lathe and plaster, you will encounter problems.
http://www.free-instruction-manuals.com/pdf/p4760244.pdf
You do not need access to ceiling void from above, but if the ceilings are lathe and plaster, you will encounter problems.
http://www.free-instruction-manuals.com/pdf/p4760244.pdf
anybody say square peg round hole?
Hahaha! Classic!
On a slightly different note... why isn't there an earth terminal in the downlight? There's earth all the way to junction box and to the downlight fitting but no terminal to attach it to on the light?
Is it not needed?
On a slightly different note... why isn't there an earth terminal in the downlight? There's earth all the way to junction box and to the downlight fitting but no terminal to attach it to on the light?
Is it not needed?
see that little picture of a square inside a square on the sticker? that means its a double insulated fitting and does not require earthing. just park the cpc in it's terminal and you're good
The fitting does not require to be earthed, but it is wise to keep the CPC continuity around the circuit for a number of reasons, one is that it may be required in the future and another it helps when performing the required tests on commissioning the circuit and also when trying to diagnose faults.
Brilliant, thanks.
When you say park the cpc inside the terminal block, what do you mean? Fit the earth in the junction box and do what with it at the light end?
Thanks again
When you say park the cpc inside the terminal block, what do you mean? Fit the earth in the junction box and do what with it at the light end?
Thanks again
How are you connecting the lights?
If you are using junction boxes run the CPC between all junction boxes, then you should be okay with tails to lamps, if you are running daisy chain across all lights, sometimes there is a little room to fit the CPC in the terminal enclosures.
I prefer to use these
click
If you are using junction boxes run the CPC between all junction boxes, then you should be okay with tails to lamps, if you are running daisy chain across all lights, sometimes there is a little room to fit the CPC in the terminal enclosures.
I prefer to use these
click
They have been fitted (by a previous person) using junction boxes. I'm guessing you mean that earthing to these is exactly correct and then wire the twin and earth from the junction box to the individual down light. Where the cable enters the downlight the earth core can be cut I guess? This will keep it out of the way or should it just be left loose?
Thanks
Thanks
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