Custom led advice?!

the moment the supply voltage rises above that threshold, the current will essentially be limited only by the resistance of the circuit. If one has no explicit resistor, that will be the internal resistance of the voltage source, which could be very low, leading to very high currents.
So are you saying that if you took one of these 4v LED units you could not connect it to a low-impedance 4v supply?
Well, I'm obviously oversimplifying a bit, since Vf is not completely constant, but does rise a bit with increasing current - although it doesn't change much over the 'usual operating range of currents'.

What I'm saying is that if one applied a voltage from a low-impedance source which was nominally 4V to an LED whose Vf was nominally 4V, the resultant current would be very unpredictable, since that current would be crucially dependent upon the actual difference between actual supply voltage and actual Vf. Even if one got that balance dead right, a very modest fall in supply voltage would result in the current virtually disappearing, and a modest increase in supply voltage would result in very high (quite probably 'too high') currents.

Kind Regards, John
 
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So are you saying that if you took one of these 4v LED units you could not connect it to a low-impedance 4v supply?
<Basically, yes>

You see whatever concerns you have about putting 3 in series with a 12v low-impedance supply with imperfect regulation, you must have ditto concerns with 1 and a 4v supply. Because one thing you'll almost certainly not be able to provide is a 4v battery to power it.

Simplest thing really would be for Lukey to tell us what he means by "4v LEDs", what the blurb says about constant-current or voltage regulated supplies and to ask the vendor if he can use 3 in series in a car.
 
A simple way to drive 4 volt LED elements from 12 volts is to connect 2 in series, giving a over all voltage of 8 volts. Then use a resistor in series with the LEDs to control the current.
Why not 3, and no resistor?
The resistor with a voltage drop across it is necessary to reliably regulate the current, it is not good to rely on the internal resistance of the LED which is not stable and varies from LED to LED and with temperature.
 
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You see whatever concerns you have about putting 3 in series with a 12v low-impedance supply with imperfect regulation, you must have ditto concerns with 1 and a 4v supply.
Indeed I do. Whether it's one, three or umpteen ('bare') LEDs in series, I think it's crazy to attempt to engineer precisely the required difference between the voltage of the supply and the Vf(s) of the LEDs and to rely upon the internal resistances of the LED(s) and supply to determine the current (without a resistor).

If one wants to have any sensible degree of control over the current (particularly if supply voltage may vary), one has to have some approximation to a 'current source'. Ideally, it would be a formal 'constant-current source' but, failing that, a supply voltage appreciably greaterthan the LED's Vf(s) in conjunction with a resistor is the minimum one should use.

Kind Regards, John
 
The resistor with a voltage drop across it is necessary to reliably regulate the current, it is not good to rely on the internal resistance of the LED which is not stable and varies from LED to LED and with temperature.
So you also believe that these 4v "LEDs" should not be connected to a 4v power supply?
 
So you also believe that these 4v "LEDs" should not be connected to a 4v power supply?
(you know my answer!). I'm starting to wonder whether we are all singing from the same hymn sheet. Bernard and I are talking about "bare LEDs", not 'LED units' or 'LED lamps/lights' (which may contain a resistor, or far more, as well as the LED) - are you as well?

Kind Regards, John
 
"Bare LED's" cannot be connected directly to a power supply. Well they can, but wont last very long.

As already said

(Vsupply - Vdiode) divided by Iforward (diode current required from datasheet) = Resistor value

12V - 3V = 9V/0.03A = 300 Ohms
Values will vary with diode type/brightness
Resistor wattage = (9V x 0.03A = 0.3watt)

No resistor, no control on the forward current, equals no diode, just a big flash when first connected.

But, at the low current required for the LED's will the flash rate be adequate? Try it first and see, but you might need to load the circuit to make it look like 2 x 21watts are still connected. 42W / 12V = 3.5A
12V/3.5A = About 3 Ohm shunt resistor in parallel with the LED's. The only thing is, it will get a bit hot (42W).
 
you can usually modify the flasher, or replace it with one designed to operate with LED lamps, to save the kludge of adding big resistors.
 
"Bare LED's" cannot be connected directly to a power supply. Well they can, but wont last very long.
That's obviously essentially what Bernard and I have been saying. BAS, on the other hand, appears to be postulating a situation in which it is possible to precisely match the voltage of the supply to the characteristics of the LED. IF one could achieve that (obviously almost impossible with batteries) and IF the voltage remains very constant (again, effectively impossible with batteries) and IF the Vf and internal resistance of the LED don't change (in response to ambient conditions or whatever), then I suppose that it might work, and 'last' - but there are so many big IFs in that as to make it little more than fantasy :)

Kind Regards, John
 
I'm "postulating" nothing of the sort.

The OP reports that he has "4v LEDs". IF they can be connected to a 4v PSU, then 3 can be connected in series to a 12V one, and can therefore be used in a car unless the requirements for the 4v one are so strict that 3 in series with a 13.8v supply would fail.

What I am challenging, or rather pointing out the inconsistency in, is the assertion that 3 cannot be used in series without an equally strong assertion that 1 cannot be connected to any old 4v supply.

There is no reliably high-impedance 4v supply which people can buy. A 4v "LED unit" cannot be supplied by a battery, as there are no 4v batteries.

If it works off a 4v constant-current supply then 3 can't be used in series in a car, but then neither can 2 + a resistor.

If it works off a regulated constant 4v supply then 2 + resistor might work in a car, or might not, but then the same could equally well be said of 3.

As I said earlier, no reliable advice can really be given without knowing more about the power requirement of these "LEDs".
 
The voltage applied to this string may vary from below 12.8 vdc to 15.5 vdc.
You need to convert this voltage source into somewhat like a current source but for statistical reasons it's less important if you have 10 or 100 LEDs in series.
 
I'm "postulating" nothing of the sort.
The OP reports that he has "4v LEDs". IF they can be connected to a 4v PSU, ....
As I've said, if they are 'bare LEDs' then they cannot, sensibly, be just connected to a 4v supply.
... then 3 can be connected in series to a 12V one, ....
As above, neither one nor 3 can sensibly be just connected to a voltage source without anything to control current.
... and can therefore be used in a car unless the requirements for the 4v one are so strict that 3 in series with a 13.8v supply would fail.
Even if you managed to arrange/trweak things so that you got roughly the desired current at 12V, an increase to 13.8V (without anything to restrict current rise), would very probably increase the current to above the LEDs' 'absolute maximum' - the current/voltage curve for an LED is very steep.
What I am challenging, or rather pointing out the inconsistency in, is the assertion that 3 cannot be used in series without an equally strong assertion that 1 cannot be connected to any old 4v supply.
See above. I have been making that "equally strong assertion" about connecting one LED straight to a voltage source - so no inconsistency.
There is no reliably high-impedance 4v supply which people can buy. A 4v "LED unit" cannot be supplied by a battery, as there are no 4v batteries.
Exactly - which is why one should use a voltage source appreciably greater than 4V coupled with a resistor (or more complex circuitry) to control current.
If it works off a 4v constant-current supply ....
I don't understand what you mean by a "4V constant current supply".
then 3 can't be used in series in a car, but then neither can 2 + a resistor.
Why not (the last bit)?
If it works off a regulated constant 4v supply ...
Yet again, without some means of current limitation/control, that would be very iffy.
... then 2 + resistor might work in a car, ...
Which it would.
... or might not, but then the same could equally well be said of 3.
If the Vf of the LEDs was 4V, 3+resistor with 12V would be very iffy.
As I said earlier, no reliable advice can really be given without knowing more about the power requirement of these "LEDs".
Agreed. As I've said, Bernard, I and others are talking about 'bare LEDs'. If what the OP has is anything more complicated than that (i.e. with other internal components), then the goalposts move totally.

In general, you seem to be thinking of an LED as a lamp, rather than as a semiconductor.

Kind Regards, John
 
As I've said, if they are 'bare LEDs' then they cannot, sensibly, be just connected to a 4v supply....As above, neither one nor 3 can sensibly be just connected to a voltage source without anything to control current.
In fact, no number can be connected to any ostensibly correct supply.


Even if you managed to arrange/trweak things so that you got roughly the desired current at 12V, an increase to 13.8V (without anything to restrict current rise), would very probably increase the current to above the LEDs' 'absolute maximum' - the current/voltage curve for an LED is very steep.
Even if you managed to arrange/tweak things so that you got roughly the desired current at 4V, an increase to 4.6V (without anything to restrict current rise), would very probably increase the current to above the LEDs' 'absolute maximum' - the current/voltage curve for an LED is very steep.


See above. I have been making that "equally strong assertion" about connecting one LED straight to a voltage source - so no inconsistency.
And what of Bernard's suggestion to use 2 + resistor? If that was tweaked to allow the right current at 12V, what would happen if the voltage went up to 13.8?


Exactly - which is why one should use a voltage source appreciably greater than 4V coupled with a resistor (or more complex circuitry) to control current.
Is 15% "appreciably greater"?


I don't understand what you mean by a "4V constant current supply".
Badly phrased. If the "LED thingy" needs a constant current then there will be a voltage drop across it, and I meant that this would be about 4v, or else the "4v" descriptor is meaningless.


Why not (the last bit)?
I seriously doubt that a resistor sized to drop 12v to 8v when the forward current of the diodes at 4v each flows would limit the current enough when the voltage increased to 13.8 given the non-linear characteristics of the diodes - their forward resistance would drop by too much.


If the Vf of the LEDs was 4V, 3+resistor with 12V would be very iffy.
Not if you can guarantee that they'd never be given more than 12v.


In general, you seem to be thinking of an LED as a lamp, rather than as a semiconductor.
In general I'm not.
 
As I've said, if they are 'bare LEDs' then they cannot, sensibly, be just connected to a 4v supply....As above, neither one nor 3 can sensibly be just connected to a voltage source without anything to control current.
In fact, no number can be connected to any ostensibly correct supply.
Even if you managed to arrange/trweak things so that you got roughly the desired current at 12V, an increase to 13.8V (without anything to restrict current rise), would very probably increase the current to above the LEDs' 'absolute maximum' - the current/voltage curve for an LED is very steep.
Even if you managed to arrange/tweak things so that you got roughly the desired current at 4V, an increase to 4.6V (without anything to restrict current rise), would very probably increase the current to above the LEDs' 'absolute maximum' - the current/voltage curve for an LED is very steep.
Exactly. To the best if my knowledge, there is no such thing as a bare LED (without integral resistor or equivalent) which is designed/intended to be connected directly to a fixed voltage source. The current would be too unpredictable, and catastrophic changes in current could occur if voltage changed a little.
And what of Bernard's suggestion to use 2 + resistor? If that was tweaked to allow the right current at 12V, what would happen if the voltage went up to 13.8?
Let's do some sums and see. Design current 20mA. Two bare LEDs with Vf of 4V at 20mA. Hence, designing for 12V, the resistor would be (12-8 )/0.02 = 200&#937;. Increase the voltage to 13.8V. If the Vf remained as 4V per LED, the current would rise to (13.8-8 )/200 = 29mA. In practice, Vf would rise a bit because of increasing current, so the voltage across the resistor would be a bit less than (13.8-8 ), so the actual current would be less than 29mA.

In contrast, if you had the two LEDs connected to an 8V constant voltage source with an internal resistance such that 20mA flowed, if you then increased that constant voltage source to 9.2 volts (0.6V more per LED), with typical LED I/V curves you'd probably see the current rising to 60mA or more, probably shortly followed by a 'small puff of smoke'!
Exactly - which is why one should use a voltage source appreciably greater than 4V coupled with a resistor (or more complex circuitry) to control current.
Is 15% "appreciably greater"?
The greater the difference between supply voltage and the total Vf of the LED’s, the closer the PSU+resistor comes to being a constant-current source, and hence the less change in current will there be when the supply voltage changes.
I don't understand what you mean by a "4V constant current supply".
Badly phrased. If the "LED thingy" needs a constant current then there will be a voltage drop across it, and I meant that this would be about 4v, or else the "4v" descriptor is meaningless.
As you’ve said, we don’t really know, but, assuming that it’s a bare LED, I think the “4V descriptor” can but be the Vf at normal operating current – there’s not really anything else it could be. As I’ve said, if it’s not a ‘bare LED’, then all bets are off.
Why not (the last bit)?
I seriously doubt that a resistor sized to drop 12v to 8v when the forward current of the diodes at 4v each flows would limit the current enough when the voltage increased to 13.8 given the non-linear characteristics of the diodes - their forward resistance would drop by too much.
I suggest that you revisit the sums above and then reconsider your serious doubts.
If the Vf of the LEDs was 4V, 3+resistor with 12V would be very iffy.
Not if you can guarantee that they'd never be given more than 12v.
With total Vf equal to supply voltage, you main problem would be in the other direction. If the supply fell appreciably below 12V, current and light would more-or-less vanish.

Kind Regards, John
 

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