A THIRD draft has now been posted in a new thread ( ( here ) . I would be grateful if any further comments could be posted in that new thread. Thanks.
OK, following some very useful comments received this morning, herewith (below) Draft 2. I have done my best to take on board most of the comments received.
Some of my original (in italic) comments/questions/uncertainties still remain, so I’d welcome further input.
What do you think?
Kind Regards, John
THE RISKS
Electricity can, and does, kill, but much more commonly results in (possibly life-changing) serious burns and other serious injuries, including loss of fingers, limbs, sight etc, not necessarily directly related to the electric shock (i.e due to falls etc. caused by shocks). Residual current devices (RCDs) reduce, but do not eliminate, the risks of death and serious injury. Do not be complacent – catastrophes and tragedies really do happen.
BEFORE YOU START - GENERAL SAFETY ADVICE
Only undertake any electrical work if you are competent to do so – i.e. if you fully understand what you are doing and what safety precautions need to be taken. If in doubt, seek advice or professional assistance. If problems, uncertainties or things you don’t understand arise whilst you are doing the work, stop doing it and seek advice or professional assistance. Do not put yourself or those around you at risk by guessing or by trying to do things you don’t fully understand or which are beyond your capabilities.
Before working on any electrical circuit or item, you must disconnect (‘isolate’) it from the electricity supply and then confirm that it is no longer ‘live’. This is called ‘testing for dead’.
With the single exception of when you are ‘testing for dead’, you should never work on any electrical circuit or item which is, or may be, live. When ‘testing for dead’, be extremely careful not to touch any possibly live parts. Wearing rubber gloves (or, better than nothing, PVC ‘washing up’ gloves) will reduce the chance of your coming into contact with live parts. Never interfere with the electricity supplier’s fuse’s, the electricity meter or any of the cables to/from them.
When doing electrical work, you should not wear metallic jewellery or watches on your hands or wrists, or around your neck, and if you have metal-framed or metal-armed spectacles, use a neck cord so that they cannot fall into your work. Nasty accidents can, and do, happen as a result of such metallic items coming into contact with live electrical parts. Wherever possible do not work on an electrical installation unless someone else is around – just in case, despite all precautions, something happens to you.
BEFORE YOU START - SAFETY EQUIPMENT NEEDED - VOLTAGE DETECTOR
Before you undertake any electrical work, you should acquire a voltage tester for confirming that circuits are ‘dead’ and therefore safe to work on (‘testing for dead’). Ideally this should be a ‘two-pole voltage tester’ – either with a lamp or an LED/electronic display. A less satisfactory tool is a multimeter, set to a high (at least 300V) AC voltage range but, if you use this, be sure that the probes are such as to prevent you touching live parts when using them.[do we want that last sentence? – the problem is that ‘occasional DIYers’ simply aren’t often going to get a proper voltage detector, so maybe the best hope is that they may have, or get, a cheap multimeter?] ‘Neon test screwdrivers’ are unreliable to the point of being potentially dangerous (may fail to indicate voltage when voltage is present) and therefore should not be used to confirm that circuits are safe to work on (‘testing for dead’).
THE SAFE WAY TO UNDERTAKE ELECTRICAL WORK
To work safely, undertake the following steps, in the order given:
1: CONFIRM YOUR VOLTAGE DETECTOR IS WORKING PROPERLY
Do this by testing on a known voltage source [I am still not sure how to handle this. I wanted to add “for example....” here. but am not sure what to say. The CU will not normally be open. I suppose a lighting rose would be one possibility, but that would cause some confusions, and it would be a bit complicated to tell them to de-energise a sockets circuit, remove a socket face plate and pull it forward, then re-energise the circuit. I’m certainly not going to tell them some of the things I might do
Any further thoughts/ideas?]
2: ISOLATE (DISCONNECT ELECTRICITY FROM) THE CIRCUIT YOU WILL BE WORKING ON
The safest approach is to switch off the ‘Main Switch’ of your Consumer Unit (CU) or fuse board, thereby switching off all electricity in your house. The next-safest approach is to switch of the ‘miniature circuit breaker’ (MCB), or remove the fuse, of the circuit you will be working on (plug-in Wylex MCBs can also be pulled out, like fuses, after switching off).[there are varying opinions about this, so further views would be welcome. Are we happy with that last sentence being there, or do we want to leave it as just ‘main switch’?]
3: IF POSSIBLE, ENSURE THAT THE ELECTRICITY CANNOT BE SWITCHED BACK ON WHILST YOU ARE WORKING
If you have removed a fuse or plug-in MCB, put it in your pocket. If the CU/fuse board is in a lockable room, lock it and put the key in your pocket. Locks for most MCBs and Main Switches are available. Consider putting a warning notice on the CU to warn against switching on the electricity. If none of those are possible, at least make sure that you warn anyone who might switch the electricity back on.
4: TEST THE CIRCUIT ‘FOR DEAD’ USING YOUR VOLTAGE DETECTOR
Test between Live and Neutral, between Live and Earth and between Neutral and Earth. Note that if you have isolated the circuit by switching off an MCB or removing a fuse, any RCD protecting the circuit will probably trip when you conduct the Neutral-Earth test, thereby removing electricity from circuits other than the one you are working on.
5: IF A POWER SOURCE IS STILL AVAILABLE, USE IT TO CONFIRM THAT YOUR VOLTAGE DETECTOR IS STILL WORKING PROPERLY
Unless you have a battery powered ‘proving unit’ (which you probably won’t have), this will generally not be possible if you have isolated using a ‘Main Switch’, and therefore have no electricity source available in your house. However, if a power source is available, it gives extra reassurance.do we want to suggest, per mfarrow suggestion, that they go through the isolate-test-reenergise-prove tester... cycle more than once?
6: DO THE WORK. AS FAR AS IS POSSIBLE, TREAT CONDUCTORS AS IF THEY WERE LIVE, EVEN THOUGH YOU HAVE ‘TESTED THEM FOR DEAD’
Wherever possible, avoid touching conductors at all, either directly or with non-insulated metal tools. Use insulated tools if possible. If you have to, or may, touch a conductor, try to avoid having your other hand anywhere near any conductor or anything metallic (behind your back or in your pocket is the ideal place for the other hand, although that’s not always practical) – the most dangerous electric shocks are those which go from one hand to the other.
Think, and then think again, at every stage. If in any doubt, don’t do it, or if doubts/uncertainties arise whilst you are working, stop doing it – and seek advice or professional assistance. It’s just not worth risking the life and limb of yourself and those around you.
OK, following some very useful comments received this morning, herewith (below) Draft 2. I have done my best to take on board most of the comments received.
Some of my original (in italic) comments/questions/uncertainties still remain, so I’d welcome further input.
What do you think?
Kind Regards, John
THE RISKS
Electricity can, and does, kill, but much more commonly results in (possibly life-changing) serious burns and other serious injuries, including loss of fingers, limbs, sight etc, not necessarily directly related to the electric shock (i.e due to falls etc. caused by shocks). Residual current devices (RCDs) reduce, but do not eliminate, the risks of death and serious injury. Do not be complacent – catastrophes and tragedies really do happen.
BEFORE YOU START - GENERAL SAFETY ADVICE
Only undertake any electrical work if you are competent to do so – i.e. if you fully understand what you are doing and what safety precautions need to be taken. If in doubt, seek advice or professional assistance. If problems, uncertainties or things you don’t understand arise whilst you are doing the work, stop doing it and seek advice or professional assistance. Do not put yourself or those around you at risk by guessing or by trying to do things you don’t fully understand or which are beyond your capabilities.
Before working on any electrical circuit or item, you must disconnect (‘isolate’) it from the electricity supply and then confirm that it is no longer ‘live’. This is called ‘testing for dead’.
With the single exception of when you are ‘testing for dead’, you should never work on any electrical circuit or item which is, or may be, live. When ‘testing for dead’, be extremely careful not to touch any possibly live parts. Wearing rubber gloves (or, better than nothing, PVC ‘washing up’ gloves) will reduce the chance of your coming into contact with live parts. Never interfere with the electricity supplier’s fuse’s, the electricity meter or any of the cables to/from them.
When doing electrical work, you should not wear metallic jewellery or watches on your hands or wrists, or around your neck, and if you have metal-framed or metal-armed spectacles, use a neck cord so that they cannot fall into your work. Nasty accidents can, and do, happen as a result of such metallic items coming into contact with live electrical parts. Wherever possible do not work on an electrical installation unless someone else is around – just in case, despite all precautions, something happens to you.
BEFORE YOU START - SAFETY EQUIPMENT NEEDED - VOLTAGE DETECTOR
Before you undertake any electrical work, you should acquire a voltage tester for confirming that circuits are ‘dead’ and therefore safe to work on (‘testing for dead’). Ideally this should be a ‘two-pole voltage tester’ – either with a lamp or an LED/electronic display. A less satisfactory tool is a multimeter, set to a high (at least 300V) AC voltage range but, if you use this, be sure that the probes are such as to prevent you touching live parts when using them.[do we want that last sentence? – the problem is that ‘occasional DIYers’ simply aren’t often going to get a proper voltage detector, so maybe the best hope is that they may have, or get, a cheap multimeter?] ‘Neon test screwdrivers’ are unreliable to the point of being potentially dangerous (may fail to indicate voltage when voltage is present) and therefore should not be used to confirm that circuits are safe to work on (‘testing for dead’).
THE SAFE WAY TO UNDERTAKE ELECTRICAL WORK
To work safely, undertake the following steps, in the order given:
1: CONFIRM YOUR VOLTAGE DETECTOR IS WORKING PROPERLY
Do this by testing on a known voltage source [I am still not sure how to handle this. I wanted to add “for example....” here. but am not sure what to say. The CU will not normally be open. I suppose a lighting rose would be one possibility, but that would cause some confusions, and it would be a bit complicated to tell them to de-energise a sockets circuit, remove a socket face plate and pull it forward, then re-energise the circuit. I’m certainly not going to tell them some of the things I might do
Any further thoughts/ideas?]2: ISOLATE (DISCONNECT ELECTRICITY FROM) THE CIRCUIT YOU WILL BE WORKING ON
The safest approach is to switch off the ‘Main Switch’ of your Consumer Unit (CU) or fuse board, thereby switching off all electricity in your house. The next-safest approach is to switch of the ‘miniature circuit breaker’ (MCB), or remove the fuse, of the circuit you will be working on (plug-in Wylex MCBs can also be pulled out, like fuses, after switching off).[there are varying opinions about this, so further views would be welcome. Are we happy with that last sentence being there, or do we want to leave it as just ‘main switch’?]
3: IF POSSIBLE, ENSURE THAT THE ELECTRICITY CANNOT BE SWITCHED BACK ON WHILST YOU ARE WORKING
If you have removed a fuse or plug-in MCB, put it in your pocket. If the CU/fuse board is in a lockable room, lock it and put the key in your pocket. Locks for most MCBs and Main Switches are available. Consider putting a warning notice on the CU to warn against switching on the electricity. If none of those are possible, at least make sure that you warn anyone who might switch the electricity back on.
4: TEST THE CIRCUIT ‘FOR DEAD’ USING YOUR VOLTAGE DETECTOR
Test between Live and Neutral, between Live and Earth and between Neutral and Earth. Note that if you have isolated the circuit by switching off an MCB or removing a fuse, any RCD protecting the circuit will probably trip when you conduct the Neutral-Earth test, thereby removing electricity from circuits other than the one you are working on.
5: IF A POWER SOURCE IS STILL AVAILABLE, USE IT TO CONFIRM THAT YOUR VOLTAGE DETECTOR IS STILL WORKING PROPERLY
Unless you have a battery powered ‘proving unit’ (which you probably won’t have), this will generally not be possible if you have isolated using a ‘Main Switch’, and therefore have no electricity source available in your house. However, if a power source is available, it gives extra reassurance.do we want to suggest, per mfarrow suggestion, that they go through the isolate-test-reenergise-prove tester... cycle more than once?
6: DO THE WORK. AS FAR AS IS POSSIBLE, TREAT CONDUCTORS AS IF THEY WERE LIVE, EVEN THOUGH YOU HAVE ‘TESTED THEM FOR DEAD’
Wherever possible, avoid touching conductors at all, either directly or with non-insulated metal tools. Use insulated tools if possible. If you have to, or may, touch a conductor, try to avoid having your other hand anywhere near any conductor or anything metallic (behind your back or in your pocket is the ideal place for the other hand, although that’s not always practical) – the most dangerous electric shocks are those which go from one hand to the other.
Think, and then think again, at every stage. If in any doubt, don’t do it, or if doubts/uncertainties arise whilst you are working, stop doing it – and seek advice or professional assistance. It’s just not worth risking the life and limb of yourself and those around you.
