Light Switch Wiring - LOOP

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Hi guys

We are currently redecorating our living room, and wanted to replace the standard white facings of the light switches. I have replaced some before in other houses I have lived in, but I haven't seen 'loop' wires before.

I am confused as to what to do with them, as the light switch that I have bought doesn't have a port for them?

Do I have the wrong light switch fitting?

Any help would be appreciated.

Ta


View media item 65473 View media item 65474
 
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The LOOP terminal does not have any connection inside the switch ( unless there is a neon indicator )

Use a single terminal block to join those blue ( neutral ) wires without them being connected to the switch.

Unless you have the CPC ( earth ) wires from all the cables you cannot use that metal fronted switch. Metal fronted switches MUST be earthed.
 
The LOOP terminal does not have any connection inside the switch ( unless there is a neon indicator )

Use a single terminal block to join those blue ( neutral ) wires without them being connected to the switch.

Unless you have the CPC ( earth ) wires from all the cables you cannot use that metal fronted switch. Metal fronted switches MUST be earthed.



Hi, and thanks for the reply.

There is an earth cable, and in that pic it was/is connected to the rear of the back plate.

So I just need a block, do I connect that grey wire with the blue tape bit (see pic) into that block also, as it currently is in the loop section?
 
There is an earth cable, and in that pic it was/is connected to the rear of the back plate.
You need to run a piece of sleeved cpc from the back plate to the cpc connector on the switch.

So I just need a block, do I connect that grey wire with the blue tape bit (see pic) into that block also, as it currently is in the loop section?
Yes you do.
Make sure all the cables that currently go into Com L1 & L2 go into the same terminals on the new switch.
 
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hi

Thanks for that, I think I'm understanding, but if you could explain it in laymans terms, that would help clarify as I want to be 100% sure I am doing it right prior to starting.

If I go and buy a Terminal Block (does it matter what Amp rating it is?) Take the "Loop" wires out, and terminate them in the terminal block with nothing on the other side.

Connect the "Earth" connection on the light switch face plate to the backplate, and then replace the Com/L1/L2 accordingly.

Is that correct?
 
It looks like you have four 1mm² cables so a 10A terminal block should do - they can be placed in either or both ends.
The idea is that all the neutral (blue) cable conductors connect together and form the neutral loop that was in the original switch.

With regards to the CPC (earth) cable all the cpc's should be terminated in the backbox.
Then get an additional piece of cpc (sleeve it) and run it from the back box earth terminal to the earth terminal on the new switch - THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.
As you switch is a two way - it is also important you put the same cable conductor colours in exactly the same terminals old for new. So make a note or mark them in some way.
 
Hi

Thanks so much for that, whilst waiting for your response, I actually called a local electrician, who confirmed what you have just told me anyway. So that's what I plan to do.

Off to B&Q for some earth wire I go.
 
The light switches with the "loop" terminal are made by Hager they launched them a couple of years ago.
I got a free sample of the switch from the ELEX show in 2011 and i thought what i good idea.
 
Update:

After reading your posts on here, I have now replaced both switches in the lounge, and they are all (from what I can tell) working perfectly fine. :D

Thanks for the advice.

Steve
 
The light switches with the "loop" terminal are made by Hager they launched them a couple of years ago.
I got a free sample of the switch from the ELEX show in 2011 and i thought what i good idea.
They can't be selling well. If they were now widespread then by now we would surely have had people here with problems because they'd wired them wrongly. :LOL:
 
For some reason, Ashley/Hager switches and sockets have never sold as well as their junction boxes.

Would certainly agree the loop terminal would confuse DIYers who aren't in the know.

In some ways the loop terminal is a waste of resources, as not always required.

I seem to remember NIC going berserk about a neutral connector block 'flapping' about in a back box, claiming a terminal block should be fixed safely to the back box. I suppose these switches would solve that so-called problem.
 
I seem to remember NIC going berserk about a neutral connector block 'flapping' about in a back box, claiming a terminal block should be fixed safely to the back box. I suppose these switches would solve that so-called problem.

I always wondered what part of BS 7671 they believed it to contravene.
 

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