3k single oven overheating 13amp plug

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I have a Smeg 220-240v Pyrolytic single oven with a connected load of 3k. The installation instructions state that if a fixed connection is used fit the powerline with an omnipolar circuit-breaker. If a plug and socket connection are used avoid the use of adapters and shunts as this may cause overheating. Previous to this I ran a 3k single oven off this socket for over 15 years with no problems so thought I was OK.

There are two double sockets in the cupboard under the units one serves the oven, the other microwave and fridge freezer the cable is connected to a 400v B20 in the RCD unit.

The oven worked fine for over 2 years when the kitchen ring tripped, the plug was hot, rewired with new plug and the oven is working fine and the plug remains cold but I no longer use the Pyro function or the turbo.

There are no spare connectors on the consumer unit and it could be awkward getting cable to the cooker. The electric hob is on the opposite wall, Is hardwiring the oven my only solution apart from, manually cleaning the oven!! which I did yesterday and although it took a long time and the oven cleaner was probably more expensive than the electric it was a better job.

Any input welcome, thanks all
 
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Hi, i would replace the plug and the socket and make sure you use a good quality brand.

Regards,

Knowall
 
Is the hob on it's own circuit and if so would it be possible to extend that circuit to the oven?
It is recommended that a load in excess of 2kW is hard-wired rather than plug-in.
 
Not really, the hob is on the opposite wall and the oven is on the same side of the kitchen as the RCD so I suppose it would be easier to hardwire the oven. Thanks knowall intended to buy a new plug and socket not hopefull though.
 
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How about changing one of the double socket outlets for a 20A DP switch?
 
There are two double sockets in the cupboard under the units one serves the oven, the other microwave and fridge freezer the cable is connected to a 400v B20 in the RCD unit.
And those are the only sockets on that circuit? (Which is probably not a ring, BTW)


The oven worked fine for over 2 years when the kitchen ring tripped,
What was running at the time it tripped?


the plug was hot, rewired with new plug
It would be wise to replace the socket as well, and to carefully check the cable supplying the socket and the oven flex at the plug end for heat damage.


and the oven is working fine and the plug remains cold but I no longer use the Pyro function or the turbo.
If the plug, socket & cables are in good condition, and the connections are sound, you ought to be able to use all of the functions of the oven.


Is hardwiring the oven my only solution
To what? You have no space for a new circuit.
 
There are two double sockets in the cupboard under the units one serves the oven,
A 13A plug contains a fuse which to rupture must get hot so also when near rupture valve must still get hot and having the plug in free air so it is naturally cooled is a must. In a cupboard is no good. Must be in free air. Using a FCU which has a greater mass than a plug and is screwed to the wall which can sink the heat is another option but all fuses get hot and must have a way to dissipate the heat.
 
Apparently this oven needs to be hard wired regardless of Smegs electrical installation instructions that it could be a fixed connection or a 13amp plug as long as adaptors and shunts are avoided. This oven is rated on the specs. as 13 amps. Bosch pyrolytic ovens are rated 16 amps.

Lesson for me avoid Italian electrical goods....design over substance.

The good news for me is I have found a B32 spare switch on the consumer unit, had an electric shower disconnected last year the cable is still in and the unit is only 2 metre's from the oven housing.

Thanks all
 
Apparently this oven needs to be hard wired regardless of Smegs electrical installation instructions that it could be a fixed connection or a 13amp plug as long as adaptors and shunts are avoided. This oven is rated on the specs. as 13 amps. Bosch pyrolytic ovens are rated 16 amps.

Lesson for me avoid Italian electrical goods....design over substance.

The good news for me is I have found a B32 spare switch on the consumer unit, had an electric shower disconnected last year the cable is still in and the unit is only 2 metre's from the oven housing.

Thanks all
 
The oven, hob and whatever else really should be fed via dedicated supply (40amp supply generaly via an rcbo wired with 6mm cable, or even 10mm for longer distances)

That you have a mains plug that is acting as a small heater is worrying and you should cease its use immediately, what is heating in probably a combination of the pins contact resistance and probably even the fuse itself roasting. No plugs should express even moderate heat and its a sure sign that a 13a mains plug and socket just isn't up to the job and it should be wired via a 20a switch instead.

Regards,

tommy
 
Unplugged the oven and stopped using it.

Electrician called and said the oven should be fine wired to a fixed 13 amp spur with omnipolar circuit breaker as installation instructions stated.

I told him I had only used the pyrolytic cleaner 3 times and the insulation in the plug had melted and after tripping the supply a couple of times eventually went off with a bang. Self cleaning runs at 500 degrees.

He agreed to hard wire from consumer unit with 6ml cable if I felt happier, but technically it shouldn't be necessary for a 3k single oven, and yes I know 240v x 3000 = 12.5 amps.

He did a nice neat job and the oven is working fine but is now giving off a horrible smell, a cross between gas and hot oil like new oven smell except it isn't new. Hoping it is the oven cleaner I used when the oven was out of action but didn't make my previous oven stink.

Give anything for my old Zanussi single oven which served me well on a 13 amp plug for over 20 years and I only replaced it because it was dated and battered but worked fine.

Thanks for your input folks.
 

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