Hi all. I have finished my second project, open kitchen shelving unit with 3 drawers and now want to move on. Underneath this unit I would like to put together a base cabinet, 2 doors and 2 drawers I think, or perhaps a row of baskets instead of one of the doors? with a nice top. Would you guys put the frame together first then fit the doors, or make the doors first and make the frame to fit? It might not matter but I don't know.
base cabinets
- Thread starter BARCUD
- Start date
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thanks gregers. I used quite cheap bits of pine for my shelving unit. For a base kitchen unit what type/s of wood do you use for each bit?
I'm not working from any plans and I have just a 2 draw, 2 door idea in my head. Any tips when it comes to making cabinets?
I'm not working from any plans and I have just a 2 draw, 2 door idea in my head. Any tips when it comes to making cabinets?
if any of the pieces are on show then use prepared timber,if its hidden then you may get away with sawn?
your best bet is to look on line or get some books on furniture making etc to get a good idea on what size timber is best to use,because you could spend a bit more then you need to?.
your best bet is to look on line or get some books on furniture making etc to get a good idea on what size timber is best to use,because you could spend a bit more then you need to?.
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thanks again. I've checked for books online and I guess it's pot luck as to if they will be helpful or not. A few bit on youtube that are helpful.
I've been doing okay with my dowel jig so whatever I do I will be using that. Unless I can find a way of making mortice and tenons with my 1/4" palm router?
I've been doing okay with my dowel jig so whatever I do I will be using that. Unless I can find a way of making mortice and tenons with my 1/4" palm router?
if its just a basic frame work,then you could either just glue/screw and butt joint it together,or halving joint it,again with glue/screws.
thing is m8,sometimes you can over complicate things when all thats needed is common sense,try to see the wood for the tress.
in other words 'dont make things difficult for yourself'
thing is m8,sometimes you can over complicate things when all thats needed is common sense,try to see the wood for the tress.
in other words 'dont make things difficult for yourself'
most off my furniture is 2x1 par frames doweled together with 9mmx88mm coverage[9x95mm actual] txg as infill in a rebate 8.75mm deep so when you clamp them back to back in pairs the cladding is flush with the inside face
the first lot are the sidewalls with routered molding on the inner face on the outside
the doors are identical except all outer faces are molded to match
i also use 2x1 batons for drawer runners top and bottom off every drawer i also use 2x1" for the shelve supports
the first lot are the sidewalls with routered molding on the inner face on the outside
the doors are identical except all outer faces are molded to match
i also use 2x1 batons for drawer runners top and bottom off every drawer i also use 2x1" for the shelve supports
That sounds interesting as the back of my shelving unit, which will be placed on the wall above the proposed base unit, is rebated and has t&g. Your plan could match.
So are you saying your sides are double t&g thick?
So are you saying your sides are double t&g thick?
no single
but you do each side as a pair so half the clamps and batons
as in lh side and rhs panels back to back batons on the front face surface and clamp
ideally a clamp every 10" or so minimum more at the ends [6-8" ideal]as you get cupping
i tend to use 3 at each end and about 6-8 each side on a 18"deep by 33-38" high panel
on a dresser aim for around 2/5ths base height and 3/5ths top height
so a 7ft dresser will be 84" with a base 33" and a top 51" but you can adjust this by several inches but to much the proportions will start to look wrong
but you do each side as a pair so half the clamps and batons
as in lh side and rhs panels back to back batons on the front face surface and clamp
ideally a clamp every 10" or so minimum more at the ends [6-8" ideal]as you get cupping
i tend to use 3 at each end and about 6-8 each side on a 18"deep by 33-38" high panel
on a dresser aim for around 2/5ths base height and 3/5ths top height
so a 7ft dresser will be 84" with a base 33" and a top 51" but you can adjust this by several inches but to much the proportions will start to look wrong
you need to remember you will have 10 people with similar tools who will work in 10 different ways
then when you have limited tools you will have many more combinations
for example
I use dowels and a rebate and txg infills someone else will use a pocket jig and ply panels
someone else will use buiscuts and a mdf shaker style
then you have the kitchen cupboard style cutter sets for a 1/2" and a router table that gives you panels in a groove and surface glue joints with no physical fixings[screws dowels or biscuits ]
the list goes on
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodwo...rail-stile-cabinet-door-set-1-2-tornado+tr306
other sets available
Yes, the yankee workshop. And boy, does he have a well kitted workshop! On one program he say's the project will only need 3 main power tools to complete, then he uses around another 6 non main power tools!!! Some interesting stuff though, glad I watched.
Dowels will be my main method at the moment, and t&g panels. Until I find a way to cut mortice and tenons using a circular saw and 1/4 palm router!?
My tool list grows but it will have to wait.
Dowels will be my main method at the moment, and t&g panels. Until I find a way to cut mortice and tenons using a circular saw and 1/4 palm router!?
My tool list grows but it will have to wait.
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