C
chantelle
Cheap bog and cheap fittings. Nuff said.
Brand new toilet not flushing enough
- Thread starter Flipjango
- Start date
Sponsored Links
To measure, stop the float from dropping so as to stop cistern refilling.
Do a full flush.
Refill to fill-level using a measuring jug.
The Fluidmaster flapper valve is highly effective. We use the minimal amount of water (roughly 3 litres) even for number 2s. Very rarely needs a second flush.
Do a full flush.
Refill to fill-level using a measuring jug.
The Fluidmaster flapper valve is highly effective. We use the minimal amount of water (roughly 3 litres) even for number 2s. Very rarely needs a second flush.
That's so annoying!! I can't recall the manufacturer's name for the flush valve or inlet valve???!!
Perhaps the flush valve needs adjusting?
As the lovely Chantelle has stated, often found in budget sanitary ware.
Looks like your flush valve could be an R&T A2411 which doesn't appear to have an adjustable height on the overflow pipe so you can't add any more water. It doesn't appear to have an adjustable flush volume either (although that may not be an issue if the cistern is already emptying completely when you press the full flush button.
Specs. say full flush speed is 2.4-2.6 litres per second, but I haven't looked up how that compares with other flush valves.
I bought a Fluidmaster 4550074 kit for my loo from B&Q, which seems a better construction than the manufacturer's original.
I'm guessing the pattern of holes around the pan can make a difference to flush performance too. The Armitage Shanks close coupled toilets with ball valve cisterns that my dad has in his house, flush quite a good stream of water at the front and back of the pan, whereas my B&Q one has a much more gentle all round flow.
Specs. say full flush speed is 2.4-2.6 litres per second, but I haven't looked up how that compares with other flush valves.
I bought a Fluidmaster 4550074 kit for my loo from B&Q, which seems a better construction than the manufacturer's original.
I'm guessing the pattern of holes around the pan can make a difference to flush performance too. The Armitage Shanks close coupled toilets with ball valve cisterns that my dad has in his house, flush quite a good stream of water at the front and back of the pan, whereas my B&Q one has a much more gentle all round flow.
Sponsored Links
Thanks JT, that certainly looks like the products. Though I think there has been a change of name? However, the info on their website is limited, so nothing conclusive there.
Well you don't really need a new inlet valve. You can buy flush valves on their own. I got a kit of both inlet & flush valve because I decided as I had to take the cistern off to do one, I may as well pay an extra £8 & replace the other at the same time. 
Is your flush valve operated by a lid mounted button that has prongs on it that press on top of the valve? My Fluidmaster valve is connected to a lid mounted button by a cable. If you want to replace with one like that you'd have to check the size of the hole in your cistern lid was the correct size.
But there's no guarantee that a replacement flush valve would solve your issue. It may mean that you could hold a slightly larger volume of water in the cistern, you would be able to adjust how much of that water is released for a short and full flush, and it may release the water into the pan more rapidly. It won't help if the problem is due to a poor design of the pan or an issue with the pipework.
Is your flush valve operated by a lid mounted button that has prongs on it that press on top of the valve? My Fluidmaster valve is connected to a lid mounted button by a cable. If you want to replace with one like that you'd have to check the size of the hole in your cistern lid was the correct size.
But there's no guarantee that a replacement flush valve would solve your issue. It may mean that you could hold a slightly larger volume of water in the cistern, you would be able to adjust how much of that water is released for a short and full flush, and it may release the water into the pan more rapidly. It won't help if the problem is due to a poor design of the pan or an issue with the pipework.
You've probably shifted a bit of a blockage in the pipe then.
Flipjango.
Is the soil stack vent to outside, above roof? You say the soil pipe goes from pan and bend down to downstair bathroom?
Dan.
Is the soil stack vent to outside, above roof? You say the soil pipe goes from pan and bend down to downstair bathroom?
Dan.
Old cisterns hold lots more water than modern ones and the 6 ltr limit (combined with expanding wastelines!) means that toilets have to be able to remove soil more efficiently than previously. This is done by creating a faster discharge of water into the pan from the cistern, and avoiding the energy of that discharge being wasted in any vortex. In the US they have a test and rating procedure for pan performance in terms of soil removal - but I dont think the EU have an equivalent system at present - so only those brands concerned with their image (or those who sell volume in the US) bother to design the units for optimum discahrge.
Your issue could be caused by:-
1 - Back pressure from stack
2 - Discharge valve restricting flow of water from cistern into pan during flush
3 - Poorly designed discharge of water into pan during flush
It doesn't sound like option 1 is occuring and changing the discharge valve might reduce restriction but given that the performance seems significantly worse than usual I suspect option 3 to be main culprit. If I was you I'd stop trying to paper over the cracks (cr@ps? ) and simply fit a different WC.
Even if your fitter purchased the WC, if it's a high end brand make I'd expect the manufactuer to replace it FOC - or at least send a rep to assess the reason for the poor performance.
Did you say you'd withheld monies? Can you use this to buy and fit an alternative?
Your issue could be caused by:-
1 - Back pressure from stack
2 - Discharge valve restricting flow of water from cistern into pan during flush
3 - Poorly designed discharge of water into pan during flush
It doesn't sound like option 1 is occuring and changing the discharge valve might reduce restriction but given that the performance seems significantly worse than usual I suspect option 3 to be main culprit. If I was you I'd stop trying to paper over the cracks (cr@ps?
) and simply fit a different WC. Even if your fitter purchased the WC, if it's a high end brand make I'd expect the manufactuer to replace it FOC - or at least send a rep to assess the reason for the poor performance.
Did you say you'd withheld monies? Can you use this to buy and fit an alternative?
The installer did the work in good faith and as far as we know the WC is probably working according to its design.
The manufacturer should be asked to comment if you are convinced there is any problem with it OTHER than the poor performance these current units give.
In spite of the above post the way these designs work is to have a narrow throat of about 100 mm compared with the 150 mm or so on the older unit. Aircraft have about 60 mm as they use even less water for a flush.
Tony
The manufacturer should be asked to comment if you are convinced there is any problem with it OTHER than the poor performance these current units give.
In spite of the above post the way these designs work is to have a narrow throat of about 100 mm compared with the 150 mm or so on the older unit. Aircraft have about 60 mm as they use even less water for a flush.
Tony
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
