Let's forget the stairs. Otherwise it was a simple question. If no one wants to answer it here, so be it.
Preparation for New Carpets
- Thread starter CHarr
- Start date
Let's forget the stairs. Otherwise it was a simple question. If no one wants to answer it here, so be it.
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So I ordered the stair carpet today, from a smallish very long-established retailer with an excellent local reputation. On the subject of stair underlay they actively advised against Axfelt 65 (but was able to supply it), saying that felt underlays were ideal to bed in the stitched joins of traditional carpets, such as Axminsters, but that a PU underlay (recommending Cloud 9's 9mm range) was the better option.
Ask three fitters, and get three conflicting opinions: just like any other trade. It's got its funny side.
Ask three fitters, and get three conflicting opinions: just like any other trade. It's got its funny side.
Neither you or your mate have given the OP any constructive advice, your contribution seems to be more about giving him a *******ing for daring to check prices and do a bit himself... odd considering it's a diy site, not a 'support your local carpet shop' site.
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If the op could answer the question regarding subfloor type, carpet type, gripper type as per my first reply, and if the skirtings are nailed or stuck to the wall, maybe we could advise on his question. May i suggest that he probably has the advice now from the local shop.
The advantage of a firmer underlay like Axfelt over soft puFoam is actually that the carpet wears more evenly, regularly, and is fan more insulating from both heat and sound, as well as coping with uneven subfloors and any seams better. I'm sure the fact that there's more margin in puFoam and its cheaper didn't sway the op's buying process
It's common knowledge that carpet right have headline discounts on the carpets and then charge crazy prices for the underlay and door thresholds. Simply buy them separately online. You don't need to fit them, the carpet fitter will fit them and it makes no difference to the fitter who supplies the underlay. I've done it many times and the carpet right sales staff always advise to replace the underlay but if I buy it separately to get decent stuff and not to scrimp too much.
The op wanted advice on pro fitting techniques, but at the same time saying that pro shops are only interested in ripping people off.
With the generalised questions being asked and the unwillingness to enter into the thought that perhaps, speccing a job properly is actually rather involved than logging online and buying on a 'whim' perhaps a better solution would be to rely on certain aspects to be left to a pro, as advised, the fact is, that I offered the help and advice that the company the OP chose to use could not give, but he declined to take us up on the offer.
You pays your money etc etc etc....
The price differential is pretty small, actually, and both are well within my budget. As it happens, while I have ordered the carpet & fitting services from a carpet shop, I haven't ordered the underlay and gripper yet - I'll do that tomorrow. I probably will go for Axfelt 65 in the expectation that it will be longer-lasting and more resilient. I really don't like the PU stuff: it's lumpy and feels cheap. I expect it is widely recommended because it IS cheap (a saving NOT passed on the the customer).
The house has suspended timber floors downstairs, with underfloor voids freely ventilated and therefore prone to being cold. The insulating properties of Axfelt are attractive, and if I use it throughout (sitting room, landing & stairs and bedroom) I will have no waste from complete rolls, even though it is over-the-top for a guest bedroom.
All the floors are timber (there's just a small section of concrete where there used to be a fireplace in one room - I'll use hardened nails there, I guess) the skirtings are conventional timber and nailed to the walls. I've no intention of touching the stairs, but putting down gripper and laying the underlay in the other rooms should be straightforward. I've been a householder for many decades and have had carpets laid many times. No fitter has EVER looked at existing gripper and complained that it isn't the right sort, isn't the right distance for the walls, or suggested that for my 'new' carpet I should have anything different. I won't buy it from B&Q, but the stuff they sell is (comparatively) cheap, and looks exactly like any other gripper I've ever seen. There are marks on the floorboards where the old gripper was, and I'll put the new stuff in the same place. I confidently expect that the fitter will pass no comment whatever, but just get on with the job in hand.
The carpets are all polypropylene on conventional (but presumably man-made) backings. They were chosen to be as similar as possible in look and feel to high quality 80/20 wool twist.
Would ANYONE care to suggest the ideal gap between the gripper and the skirting?
6-8mm
You'll need to stick the gripper in short 6-8" lengths over the old fire place hearth, remove the hardened pins, glue down with gripfill 24hrs prior to fitting in this area or you might get away with a hot melt glue gun.
Depending on the size of rooms and how the carpet handles, the fitter may choose to double bank the gripper at one end of the room.
If you have any cables, fix them behind the gripper NOT in the gap between gripper and skirtings. Don't be tempted to run. Power flexes for lamps etc in this area, these must never be fitted under carpet. Speaker cables, Aerials, Ethernet etc should be ok.
Gripper should be Medium pin pre-nailed wood gripper with a minimum of two rows of fastening pins protruding and pointing TOWARDS the skirtings.
Short pin gripper will not hold the carpet properly, long pin will risk the pins protruding through the carpet pile. Concrete gripper will not hold properly on wooden subfloor surfaces. Nailed skirtings will not move as much as glued skirtings when the carpets are bolstered down but be prepared for some cracking of the top edge, particularly if they have been freshly painted.
You'll need to stick the gripper in short 6-8" lengths over the old fire place hearth, remove the hardened pins, glue down with gripfill 24hrs prior to fitting in this area or you might get away with a hot melt glue gun.
Depending on the size of rooms and how the carpet handles, the fitter may choose to double bank the gripper at one end of the room.
If you have any cables, fix them behind the gripper NOT in the gap between gripper and skirtings. Don't be tempted to run. Power flexes for lamps etc in this area, these must never be fitted under carpet. Speaker cables, Aerials, Ethernet etc should be ok.
Gripper should be Medium pin pre-nailed wood gripper with a minimum of two rows of fastening pins protruding and pointing TOWARDS the skirtings.
Short pin gripper will not hold the carpet properly, long pin will risk the pins protruding through the carpet pile. Concrete gripper will not hold properly on wooden subfloor surfaces. Nailed skirtings will not move as much as glued skirtings when the carpets are bolstered down but be prepared for some cracking of the top edge, particularly if they have been freshly painted.
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